Make sure the motor is an actual Nakamichi part. That's more important.
The CD-330 isn't fun. I rebuilt many, many years ago. Now I'm not "in the groove" anymore. Especially since TC Electronics killed the brand. They made me so angry I dropped Marantz for warranty. I was sad about that since I went back so far with Marantz. Now, Lenbrook had them and I think Denon Canada has them. Finally, another good distributor!
-Chris
The CD-330 isn't fun. I rebuilt many, many years ago. Now I'm not "in the groove" anymore. Especially since TC Electronics killed the brand. They made me so angry I dropped Marantz for warranty. I was sad about that since I went back so far with Marantz. Now, Lenbrook had them and I think Denon Canada has them. Finally, another good distributor!
-Chris
I'm going to get it from eslabs or lenbrook since they are about the only authorized dealers. One is near, and the other one has a good reputation. I'm going for the cheapest!
The transport is even hard to remove out of the CD-330. It's pretty discouraging.
I just received a reply on naks.com the guy tell it can be rebuilt. I wonder if it's just by putting 12v in the terminals for a few seconds like some people do to remove the shorts.
The transport is even hard to remove out of the CD-330. It's pretty discouraging.
I just received a reply on naks.com the guy tell it can be rebuilt. I wonder if it's just by putting 12v in the terminals for a few seconds like some people do to remove the shorts.
Hi DragonMaster,
That guy is badly mis-informed. Sorry, you need a new one. Just simply buy a new motor and be done with it. Otherwise, you will be back into it ... and have to buy an new motor. Possibly also need to repair the motor drive circuit as well.
-Chris
That guy is badly mis-informed. Sorry, you need a new one. Just simply buy a new motor and be done with it. Otherwise, you will be back into it ... and have to buy an new motor. Possibly also need to repair the motor drive circuit as well.
-Chris
Since motors won't teleport themselves, I used a temporary solution to the problem. I actually opened the motor and cleaned the brushes and commutator with rubbing alcohol. There was a black spot on it.
In fact, the "rebuild" the guy told me about is this:
The rebuild involves taking the motor apart, cleaning the commutator, lubricating the bearings and reassembling. I've done this quite a few times, with 90% success rate. It won't succeed if the brushes are too far gone or if the commutator is too pitted. I also check the small cap across the motor and replace if bad.
The transistors are still working after about 10+ shorts. I guess they can handle it for the fraction of second they work. If the motor won't turn, the drive just stops trying after ~1/2 second.
If the problem reappears, I'll buy a new motor.
Hey, what if I hook the shaft to a drill and put a light pressure with 1000 grit sand paper on the commutator?😀 
In fact, the "rebuild" the guy told me about is this:
The rebuild involves taking the motor apart, cleaning the commutator, lubricating the bearings and reassembling. I've done this quite a few times, with 90% success rate. It won't succeed if the brushes are too far gone or if the commutator is too pitted. I also check the small cap across the motor and replace if bad.
The transistors are still working after about 10+ shorts. I guess they can handle it for the fraction of second they work. If the motor won't turn, the drive just stops trying after ~1/2 second.
If the problem reappears, I'll buy a new motor.
Hey, what if I hook the shaft to a drill and put a light pressure with 1000 grit sand paper on the commutator?😀 I've done the crazy thing and sanded the commutator with the help of a drill and sand paper. The brushes are now making the contact with new shiny cooper. Works great! I did not sand the brushes tho.
Hi DragonMaster,
Sanding the commutator is what has bought you some time. It's normally not worth doing. The brushes are the other issue as they wear though where they make contact with the commutator. So you did fix it, short term. Congratulations!
Now, if you want to keep this machine, buy a new motor when you have enough money. Don't rely on this being permanent, it may or may not last.
-Chris
Sanding the commutator is what has bought you some time. It's normally not worth doing. The brushes are the other issue as they wear though where they make contact with the commutator. So you did fix it, short term. Congratulations!
Now, if you want to keep this machine, buy a new motor when you have enough money. Don't rely on this being permanent, it may or may not last.
-Chris
A motor is USD $55 and the shipping is USD $20. Not cheap!
I will sand the brushes when I can. There is still a good part of them remaining.
I'm not listening to tapes every days/weeks/months so this (temporary) solution should still last a couple of time.
I will sand the brushes when I can. There is still a good part of them remaining.
I'm not listening to tapes every days/weeks/months so this (temporary) solution should still last a couple of time.
Have them mail it surface, much less than $20 then.
Have fun, with any luck, it will last.
-Chris
Have fun, with any luck, it will last.
-Chris
Cam motor has no more problems. I shouldn't tell this, it will start having some problems.
Drive motor had problems instead. The machine was eating tapes. I've done a rebuild to this one too. I just think I sanded a bit too much. a little part of the plating is removed where the brushes don't touch. Anyways, it works!
Now, I started to try recording this week. The right channel recording has gain problems, it seems compressed and sometimes gain is just going gradually low, high, low, high...
That was when I tried Dolby C with FM(MPX on). I made a few tests and the problem did not show itself. Instead, in one of the tests(MPX off, dolby off), the gain reduced drastically while recording a mono track. In the next test, it was OK. (See attachement)
It seems to be some transistor problem like my hk670 amp.(I still haven't solved this)
Drive motor had problems instead. The machine was eating tapes. I've done a rebuild to this one too. I just think I sanded a bit too much. a little part of the plating is removed where the brushes don't touch. Anyways, it works!
Now, I started to try recording this week. The right channel recording has gain problems, it seems compressed and sometimes gain is just going gradually low, high, low, high...
That was when I tried Dolby C with FM(MPX on). I made a few tests and the problem did not show itself. Instead, in one of the tests(MPX off, dolby off), the gain reduced drastically while recording a mono track. In the next test, it was OK. (See attachement)
It seems to be some transistor problem like my hk670 amp.(I still haven't solved this)
Attachments
Hi DragonMaster,
I hate to ask, but ... did you check the tape path and capstan bearing?
A machine with motors this worn has had heavy use. I'll bet the tape is being drawn in towards the mechanism due to a worn capstan bearing.
I am really sorry to say this, but I am thinking your machine needs an overhaul.
-Chris
I hate to ask, but ... did you check the tape path and capstan bearing?
A machine with motors this worn has had heavy use. I'll bet the tape is being drawn in towards the mechanism due to a worn capstan bearing.
I am really sorry to say this, but I am thinking your machine needs an overhaul.
-Chris
It has a number on the back. It seems to come from a school or something like this. Yes, the capstan is loose, but I don't have any problems since I refurb. the motor.
I'll have to get that Hitachi scope I want to buy since a couple of time.
Damn the parts cost a lot. There would be 2x 50$USD motors to change, a bearing, maybe the head, some parts on the main PCB. I practically want to buy an other one with "low use".
I'll have to get that Hitachi scope I want to buy since a couple of time.
Damn the parts cost a lot. There would be 2x 50$USD motors to change, a bearing, maybe the head, some parts on the main PCB. I practically want to buy an other one with "low use".
It's great for playback tho.
There were some discussions about orange caps on naktalk. Here are the problems described:
I have a similar problem which is intermittent low gain on record. I guess I should replace them?
There were some discussions about orange caps on naktalk. Here are the problems described:
I have a similar problem which is intermittent low gain on record. I guess I should replace them?
Hi DragonMaster,
You can try, although I haven't run across any great problem with these. Some film caps in the master oscillator may short, but that happens with all brands from time to time.
I don't know if running this machine has any value at all. The tape path is not correct, tape is running against the guide (inside). Not good. Not correct. Oh well.
-Chris
You can try, although I haven't run across any great problem with these. Some film caps in the master oscillator may short, but that happens with all brands from time to time.
I don't know if running this machine has any value at all. The tape path is not correct, tape is running against the guide (inside). Not good. Not correct. Oh well.
-Chris
Is there a way to change the capstan bearing? (If it turns to be the only problem remaining) It doesn't seem to move a lot. What could be the symptoms of this? If the capstan was the cause of the tape eating, it would have to turn so fast that the drive motor can't handle it.
The recording problem disappeared like magic. I'm sure it will reappear if I tell there's no problem.
Apart that there are some recording problems that show up from time to time, there are absolutely no problems with playback. The speed remains the same.
The recording problem disappeared like magic. I'm sure it will reappear if I tell there's no problem.
Apart that there are some recording problems that show up from time to time, there are absolutely no problems with playback. The speed remains the same.
The tape eating issue has to do with the reel motor and / or the reel table and swing gear.
The capstan bearing is replaceable. Nice big hunk of metal in these, not those skinny little things seen in almost averything else.
Experienced hands need to look at your machine. Much can be told in a short time once the mech. is out. There is no way to describe what to do without showing you. It's the small things that will get you.
Did you ever report back to the seller? But then again, he knows.
-Chris
The capstan bearing is replaceable. Nice big hunk of metal in these, not those skinny little things seen in almost averything else.
Experienced hands need to look at your machine. Much can be told in a short time once the mech. is out. There is no way to describe what to do without showing you. It's the small things that will get you.
Did you ever report back to the seller? But then again, he knows.
-Chris
The drive motor was just stopping and it seems it's a common problem with Sankyo transport from the naktalk guys.
The seller is aware of the cam motor problem only. I have the repair guy's email also.
It's not easy to find a repair guy somewhere as the only one that is a real one (On the spot repair) is an Hitachi guy. I think there's an other one just a bit more far away.
In fact, I get all the Nak problems at the same time I think. Failing motors, etc. I should ask the link to the "common Nak failures"
What can they look at?
The seller is aware of the cam motor problem only. I have the repair guy's email also.
It's not easy to find a repair guy somewhere as the only one that is a real one (On the spot repair) is an Hitachi guy. I think there's an other one just a bit more far away.
In fact, I get all the Nak problems at the same time I think. Failing motors, etc. I should ask the link to the "common Nak failures"
What can they look at?
Hi DragonMaster,
I can tell you from experience, those problems you are having were known by the repair guy. Either than or he stuck his head in the sand and does not have test tapes or experience.
If your local repair guy is good on mech's at all, he has seen Nakamichi units before. Look for a guy who has worked on them. An old Nak repair depot is a very good bet and there has to be one in the area. At least they will do a proper job and be able to tell you what you are in for in advance. Be advised that sometime the lowest posted labour rate is the most expensive repair. Make sure exact Nak parts are used.
-Chris
I can tell you from experience, those problems you are having were known by the repair guy. Either than or he stuck his head in the sand and does not have test tapes or experience.
If your local repair guy is good on mech's at all, he has seen Nakamichi units before. Look for a guy who has worked on them. An old Nak repair depot is a very good bet and there has to be one in the area. At least they will do a proper job and be able to tell you what you are in for in advance. Be advised that sometime the lowest posted labour rate is the most expensive repair. Make sure exact Nak parts are used.
-Chris
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