Hi, about the Nak, I don't seem to have problem with it.
And the CD-330, I forgot to give news about it but I just put the nylon screw from the other CD-330, tightened the part that was holding the ball and put an other ball from the other CD-330 and it works pretty well. I also put a couple of tie wraps, missing screws and got the rec level pot from the other unit. So far I don't seem to have much problems, I will just need to get some locktite and put some at a lot of places to prevent everything from falling.
And the CD-330, I forgot to give news about it but I just put the nylon screw from the other CD-330, tightened the part that was holding the ball and put an other ball from the other CD-330 and it works pretty well. I also put a couple of tie wraps, missing screws and got the rec level pot from the other unit. So far I don't seem to have much problems, I will just need to get some locktite and put some at a lot of places to prevent everything from falling.
Hi DragonMaster,
Great news! Good.
I believe the clearance on the CD-330 is 0.5mm for the thrust bearing. Just a tiny bit of play, so don't tighten it right up.
-Chris
Great news! Good.
I believe the clearance on the CD-330 is 0.5mm for the thrust bearing. Just a tiny bit of play, so don't tighten it right up.
-Chris
I guess that tightening it just enough and turning back about ¼ or ½ turn should work.
Now it needs at least azimuth, VU meters and speed adjustments.
I still have to find a repair center that repairs equipment on the spot. The nearest center sends the decks to Montreal for evaluation and repair is done in Toronto. And it costs 35$ per deck just for the evaluation.
Now it needs at least azimuth, VU meters and speed adjustments.
I still have to find a repair center that repairs equipment on the spot. The nearest center sends the decks to Montreal for evaluation and repair is done in Toronto. And it costs 35$ per deck just for the evaluation.
I guess everyone is bailing on service. With good reason. It's not worth it to try to run a shop anymore.
Who ships to Toronto for service?? The major centers were Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver. There are some excellent shops in between here and there as well.
-Chris
Who ships to Toronto for service?? The major centers were Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver. There are some excellent shops in between here and there as well.
-Chris
Who ships to Toronto? Hecotron. Their service center is supposed to be in Montreal but when I sent my VCR to them they brought it to Toshiba in Toronto. That's not what I call a service center. I've got it back 6 months after in ± good condition.
I found this place:
http://brosseau.qc.ca/
they are at maybe 20 minutes from me and they service Naks. I still have to know if they service Superscope too.
I found this place:
http://brosseau.qc.ca/
they are at maybe 20 minutes from me and they service Naks. I still have to know if they service Superscope too.
Well, if brosseau services Nak, then take the Superscope along and explain what you need done. The standard Teac test tapes are all they need.
-Chris
-Chris
Please excuse me for resurrecting this ancient thread from the dead, but so far it has provided a lot of vital info for me, yet I need to ask some more questions.
I guess first I have to tell you a few things about my situation so you can see how things are.
Long ago when I was a kid of 9 or maybe 10 I bought a CD-330 without being able to test more than playback which worked at the time, recording never did, all I got was noise (crackling and loud popping noises on ARL if I remember correctly, on manual just one channel with some noise). Now that I have some limited experience with electronics I decided to open it up and give it a try since the only other option seems to be throwing it away.
The unit is fairly mangled, one of the front cover screws was broken (deliberately as I discovered, the nut glued into the casing turns freely, so the previous owner broke the screw head off in order to open the unit) and several screws are flat out missing. The whole exterior is scratched and even shows traces of intimate contact with a soldering iron.
Anyway, after 15 years of sitting around the machine was worse for wear - all belts had started to disintegrate (fortunately I had expected this and removed them before trying to run the recorder or they would have gotten all tangled up). I temporarily replaced them with household o-rings and cleaned most of the drive assembly with alcohol (as far as I could get without disassembling more than the flywheel bearing plate). Now the speed seems pretty even (albeit slow), even with the clearly inferior "belts". Playback sort of works but is strangely intermittent, apparently a mechanical problem. One thing I discovered is that the long stud near the cassette compartment no longer threads into the front cover and the front cover is pushed away by the cables - which seem to get in the way, no matter how nicely I try to dress them up. The cover pulling away of course messes up the tape-head-contact. I'm not sure if this is the only problem though.
Do you have any creative ideas what I could do about the cables running along the connector PCB and drive subchassis PCB and how I could get that stud to thread again? I tried screwing it into the removed front cover but it turns freely and won't go in, not even with moderate pressure, which seems to indicate there's something stuck in the threads.
Yesterday I tried an impromptu recording by connecting the phones/line output of my portable MD player to the Marantz input (RCA). I did get a recording, but extremely faint. When I set the Source selector to Source I hear the input from the MD but also at extremely low volume which seems to indicate trouble at a fairly early stage to me.
My knowledge on electronics is somewhat limited, but I know how to handle a soldering iron and multimeter, I know Ohms law and even own an old oscilloscope, but don't know much about how to use it.
Unfortunately I don't have any schematics for the Marantz (I'd have to try and contact Marantz, but my hopes aren't too high and given the state of the machine I don't want to put any serious money into it).
Thanks for any help!
I guess first I have to tell you a few things about my situation so you can see how things are.
Long ago when I was a kid of 9 or maybe 10 I bought a CD-330 without being able to test more than playback which worked at the time, recording never did, all I got was noise (crackling and loud popping noises on ARL if I remember correctly, on manual just one channel with some noise). Now that I have some limited experience with electronics I decided to open it up and give it a try since the only other option seems to be throwing it away.
The unit is fairly mangled, one of the front cover screws was broken (deliberately as I discovered, the nut glued into the casing turns freely, so the previous owner broke the screw head off in order to open the unit) and several screws are flat out missing. The whole exterior is scratched and even shows traces of intimate contact with a soldering iron.
Anyway, after 15 years of sitting around the machine was worse for wear - all belts had started to disintegrate (fortunately I had expected this and removed them before trying to run the recorder or they would have gotten all tangled up). I temporarily replaced them with household o-rings and cleaned most of the drive assembly with alcohol (as far as I could get without disassembling more than the flywheel bearing plate). Now the speed seems pretty even (albeit slow), even with the clearly inferior "belts". Playback sort of works but is strangely intermittent, apparently a mechanical problem. One thing I discovered is that the long stud near the cassette compartment no longer threads into the front cover and the front cover is pushed away by the cables - which seem to get in the way, no matter how nicely I try to dress them up. The cover pulling away of course messes up the tape-head-contact. I'm not sure if this is the only problem though.
Do you have any creative ideas what I could do about the cables running along the connector PCB and drive subchassis PCB and how I could get that stud to thread again? I tried screwing it into the removed front cover but it turns freely and won't go in, not even with moderate pressure, which seems to indicate there's something stuck in the threads.
Yesterday I tried an impromptu recording by connecting the phones/line output of my portable MD player to the Marantz input (RCA). I did get a recording, but extremely faint. When I set the Source selector to Source I hear the input from the MD but also at extremely low volume which seems to indicate trouble at a fairly early stage to me.
My knowledge on electronics is somewhat limited, but I know how to handle a soldering iron and multimeter, I know Ohms law and even own an old oscilloscope, but don't know much about how to use it.
Unfortunately I don't have any schematics for the Marantz (I'd have to try and contact Marantz, but my hopes aren't too high and given the state of the machine I don't want to put any serious money into it).
Thanks for any help!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.