Hi DragonMaster,
You would need to have the seller send you a copy of the repair invoice. They can blank out the prices if they want. If it's not clear on the repair form, you may need to ask what the normal procedure is for the repair listed.
They need a torque cassette to measure the T/U tension. The other way is to have a shop local to you who does Nak warranty, or used to do Nak warranty do a quick check. When I ran my shop I would have done this at no charge. 1/2 hour is the max charge I would expect for this check.
-Chris
You would need to have the seller send you a copy of the repair invoice. They can blank out the prices if they want. If it's not clear on the repair form, you may need to ask what the normal procedure is for the repair listed.
They need a torque cassette to measure the T/U tension. The other way is to have a shop local to you who does Nak warranty, or used to do Nak warranty do a quick check. When I ran my shop I would have done this at no charge. 1/2 hour is the max charge I would expect for this check.
-Chris
I don't think they have pretty much more info than what I post on this. They said they paid the repair guy 82$ "under the table". So, there's no bill or anything like this.
I asked the seller if it would be possible to have the service guy's e-mail.
Hi DragonMaster,
Try option #2 - ask a shop. If the unit has the gear mod but the torque is still 50gr/cm, you are further ahead paying 1/2 Hr to set it to the proper 35gr/cm. If it's a bad service job, get it fixed straight away or send it back.
-Chris
Try option #2 - ask a shop. If the unit has the gear mod but the torque is still 50gr/cm, you are further ahead paying 1/2 Hr to set it to the proper 35gr/cm. If it's a bad service job, get it fixed straight away or send it back.
-Chris
I just got the service center's e-mail address. I don't know if I'll be able to get much details but I'll try.
There's not ANY Nak service center in the province from what I've found.
The only I found was this one:
http://www.eslabs.com/ but it's a bit far away.
There's not ANY Nak service center in the province from what I've found.
The only I found was this one:
http://www.eslabs.com/ but it's a bit far away.
I thought that Lenbrook took Nak distribution over. Could be wrong. I was with Nakamichi Canada. There must have been a shop in Quebec. I was in Ontario, eventually they opened a couple other shops here.
Try to contact Lenbrook industries, Pickering Ontario. See if they had a shop where you are.
Any real good shop should be able to handle that job. The good ones would have seen Nakamichi even out of warranty.
-Chris
Try to contact Lenbrook industries, Pickering Ontario. See if they had a shop where you are.
Any real good shop should be able to handle that job. The good ones would have seen Nakamichi even out of warranty.
-Chris
I just found Lenbrook's website, there are 5 centers in Ontario, one in USA and one in UK. Not anywhere else.
About the only service company here is Hecotron. They don't repair Nak.
There's a really small private owned Hitachi, Pioneer, Sony service "center" near where I live
About the only service company here is Hecotron. They don't repair Nak.
There's a really small private owned Hitachi, Pioneer, Sony service "center" near where I live
I just looked under the plate to look the idler condition and found a gear. Meaning that the drive is already upgraded.
What was the grinding sound? The rubber brakes stopping the wheels. Now, I just wonder why the grinding appeared while I was rewinding. Maybe torque is still too high?
What was the grinding sound? The rubber brakes stopping the wheels. Now, I just wonder why the grinding appeared while I was rewinding. Maybe torque is still too high?
The gear upgrade is great news. It is possible the T/U tesion is too high. You need a torque tape to set this. Just a pot adjustment, but I'd have to go on old memories to tell you. It'd be easier to have it on my lap.
Try your shop close by.
-Chris
Try your shop close by.
-Chris
Now, I have an other problem.
If I go from pause, rewind or ff to play, 1/3 times, it just stops instead. Sometimes, the transport just stops working. It can't do anything until I open the cover and help the head motor to do it's job. It happened 3 times. The machine also tried to eat two tapes.
If I go from pause, rewind or ff to play, 1/3 times, it just stops instead. Sometimes, the transport just stops working. It can't do anything until I open the cover and help the head motor to do it's job. It happened 3 times. The machine also tried to eat two tapes.
There is a pot that tells the controller what position the mechanism is in. I'll bet it needs cleaning. It is operated by the cam gear.
Just use as little cleaner as you can, this pot moves a lot and needs the lubricants. Clean the slip ring, not the carbon track!!!
-Chris
Just use as little cleaner as you can, this pot moves a lot and needs the lubricants. Clean the slip ring, not the carbon track!!!
-Chris
Seems pretty risky. I'm 99% sure I'll put some on the carbon track.
If I use rubbing alchool will it do something to the track?
Or would DeOxit be a better choice?
Shouldn't the ring get some Vaseline or sharpening oil instead of cleaning?
There are also 3 switches moved by this same motor.
I just need to find a service manual and I'll be less afraid of playing in it. I should try with eslabs to see if they can provide me one.
The guy @ eslabs told me to go on naks.com. The only problem is that no one seems to answer my question.
Sorry, memory failure - wrong model.
The three switches need cleaning. DeOxid is an excellent choice, same for pots. Use some on a business card between the contacts held lightly together. Follow with a non-residue cleaner like Electrowash 2000. The paper of the business card will show a brownish mark as the oxides come off. These are crossbar switches and will tear up the cards if you are too rough. Easy does it.
-Chris
The three switches need cleaning. DeOxid is an excellent choice, same for pots. Use some on a business card between the contacts held lightly together. Follow with a non-residue cleaner like Electrowash 2000. The paper of the business card will show a brownish mark as the oxides come off. These are crossbar switches and will tear up the cards if you are too rough. Easy does it.
-Chris
For now, I still don't have any DeOxit, only some "Contact 2000" contact cleaner that smells like alchool and is just making the contact worse.
Also I will need Electrowash 2000 because I don't have any.
It really seems like the motor is missing power. If I help it to turn, the deck works correctly for a couple of play, stop, ff, rew changes. I'll try with 80% rubbing alchool to see if it changes something.
Wow, transport is really easy to remove. 4 screws and 4 connectors. My Toshiba is even easier, but it's starting to have similar problems to the Nak. I guess it's a lube problems because everything is mechanic and the motor driving heads, spools and capstan is working correctly.
Any source for Electrowash and DeOxit?
Also I will need Electrowash 2000 because I don't have any.
It really seems like the motor is missing power. If I help it to turn, the deck works correctly for a couple of play, stop, ff, rew changes. I'll try with 80% rubbing alchool to see if it changes something.
Wow, transport is really easy to remove. 4 screws and 4 connectors. My Toshiba is even easier, but it's starting to have similar problems to the Nak. I guess it's a lube problems because everything is mechanic and the motor driving heads, spools and capstan is working correctly.
Any source for Electrowash and DeOxit?
Try one of the old Active Electronics stores. They have De-Ox-Id by General Cement as well as Electrowash 2000.
You may need a new motor. They can go occasionally. Ask the seller if you can obtain one from his repair guy. Don't bother with the alchohol.
-Chris
You may need a new motor. They can go occasionally. Ask the seller if you can obtain one from his repair guy. Don't bother with the alchohol.
-Chris
Lighter fluid removed some black dirt off the contacts.
The gear and shaft were completely grease free so I put some lithhium grease and 2 drips of sharpening/sewing machine oil in the motor.
The motor seems harder to stop by hand and I just tried doing a lot of pause, ff, rew, play, stop in random order and it didn't block like before.
I hope it will stop eating tapes. The tape eating detection is great btw!
The gear and shaft were completely grease free so I put some lithhium grease and 2 drips of sharpening/sewing machine oil in the motor.
The motor seems harder to stop by hand and I just tried doing a lot of pause, ff, rew, play, stop in random order and it didn't block like before.
I hope it will stop eating tapes. The tape eating detection is great btw!
Hi DragonMaster,
You still will need a motor at some point. Good job you got it working though! Get a motor with everything on it, It's a real pain to put the swing arm on if you aren't use to it. There is a spring in there waiting to jump out.
The motion detection is optical. Reflective tape on the bottom of the T/U table. It does work very well.
-Chris
You still will need a motor at some point. Good job you got it working though! Get a motor with everything on it, It's a real pain to put the swing arm on if you aren't use to it. There is a spring in there waiting to jump out.
The motion detection is optical. Reflective tape on the bottom of the T/U table. It does work very well.
-Chris
swing arm?
I think it will need a new motor. It's doing the same thing as before. I pressed pause, then play and it stopped. Really, I wonder why it fails.
In fact getting it to work is quite easy if it stops working, I help the motor to turn and it starts working again.
Getting to the switches was somewhat a pain. I had to remove the capstan motor w/the plate and the kind of spring holding a ball on the front to be able to remove the plate with the switches and motor on it.
What's the name of that motor?
I think it will need a new motor. It's doing the same thing as before. I pressed pause, then play and it stopped. Really, I wonder why it fails.
In fact getting it to work is quite easy if it stops working, I help the motor to turn and it starts working again.
Getting to the switches was somewhat a pain. I had to remove the capstan motor w/the plate and the kind of spring holding a ball on the front to be able to remove the plate with the switches and motor on it.
What's the name of that motor?
Brain misfiring again!
The swing arm goes on the reel motor. Disregard.
The motor you need is the cam motor. It fails due to wear on the armature and contacts. If you don't change it, the intermittent shorting will blow the transistors that control the motor. When you push it, you rotate the armature to a non-shorted location.
Hey, the standard mechanism 2 is easy as pie to work on. You haven't lived until you rebuild a standard mechanism 1. Dragon, 1000ZXL, 480.
-Chris
The swing arm goes on the reel motor. Disregard.
The motor you need is the cam motor. It fails due to wear on the armature and contacts. If you don't change it, the intermittent shorting will blow the transistors that control the motor. When you push it, you rotate the armature to a non-shorted location.
Hey, the standard mechanism 2 is easy as pie to work on. You haven't lived until you rebuild a standard mechanism 1. Dragon, 1000ZXL, 480.
-Chris
OK, so I need to try to find a cam motor. I'll ask @ a couple of places for the cheapest.
The only hard part was to put masking tape in the hole between the ball and the spring. 😉 I remember working on my Toshiba the belts are a lot harder to re-install than this one. (The transport is easy to work on tho)
I think the CD-330 will be quite something to repair. The part holding the spring I talked about somewhere in the previous posts was a pain to reinstall.
The only hard part was to put masking tape in the hole between the ball and the spring. 😉 I remember working on my Toshiba the belts are a lot harder to re-install than this one. (The transport is easy to work on tho)
I think the CD-330 will be quite something to repair. The part holding the spring I talked about somewhere in the previous posts was a pain to reinstall.
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