Oh, I see. I guess I should really buy that CD-330 off ebay.
Arrgh! All I can tell is that the ball came from under the heads.
It's much more cleaner and easier to repair. If they at least would have put some sockets!
Hope so! The only auction I can find is someone claiming he sells 6 PDM-360. The only thing is that in the 7 tape drives on the picture, 3 are different from the others.
They cost 200$, while the CD-330 is starting @ 12$ and doesn't seem really popular.
It's sad to know that the transport is falling apart, the case is in practically mint condition(It's almost always stored in the original box), it has only been used a few times and it sounds pretty good.
Hi DragonMaster,
I'd say that $200.00 is a bit rich for these, even new in box. Wait him out. Keep your eye's peeled for those.
I liked the PMD360 better than the CD-330. Almost the same machine. The cosmetics are better to my eye. Bear in mind they had mono machines for court reporters, and I think maybe a two head stereo. The 360 is three head stereo just like your 330.
There is a possibility that they changed the nylon material in the 360. We did have an issue where the record lever would break. The factory response was to bend the existing spring to operate the record switch. I did a few, a perfectly valid repair. I don't think I have the mod sheet any more. If someone has it, could they scan and post it please?
Having wires to resolder and move around wasn't a hardship back then. Everything was built like that on average so we were used to it. The wires made for smaller PCB's. The big all-in-one PCB's today break easily. A cracked PCB is harder to repair than a broken wire. Sockets would have been nice (spoiled now), you can put them in if you want. Maybe they did that on the PMD-360. Can't remember.
-Chris
I'd say that $200.00 is a bit rich for these, even new in box. Wait him out. Keep your eye's peeled for those.
I liked the PMD360 better than the CD-330. Almost the same machine. The cosmetics are better to my eye. Bear in mind they had mono machines for court reporters, and I think maybe a two head stereo. The 360 is three head stereo just like your 330.
There is a possibility that they changed the nylon material in the 360. We did have an issue where the record lever would break. The factory response was to bend the existing spring to operate the record switch. I did a few, a perfectly valid repair. I don't think I have the mod sheet any more. If someone has it, could they scan and post it please?
Having wires to resolder and move around wasn't a hardship back then. Everything was built like that on average so we were used to it. The wires made for smaller PCB's. The big all-in-one PCB's today break easily. A cracked PCB is harder to repair than a broken wire. Sockets would have been nice (spoiled now), you can put them in if you want. Maybe they did that on the PMD-360. Can't remember.
-Chris
The last sentence of my last post was about the CD-330 :
Not me. My soldering iron is placed on a really small messy shelf, and there's no place for the Superscope on it. It's always a pain to bring the CD-330, try to find a place where it can hold, unsolder the back cover ground, return to where I was to unscrew the top cover, return to unsolder the speaker...
In fact, there are a couple of sockets, but not everywhere. That's the problem.
I feel for you.
Again, see if you can score a PDM-360 some time. The CD-330 may get yours going. I suspect yours in in better shape if you can get it together again.
-Chris
Again, see if you can score a PDM-360 some time. The CD-330 may get yours going. I suspect yours in in better shape if you can get it together again.
-Chris
I'll try to look for a cheap PMD-360 if I see that, once I have a CD-330, that I really use it.
Just like this, can it be considered a good tape player? I mostly want to convert some tapes to CD. (I've already done it, but with a cheapo Toshiba deck and a motherboard audio codec)
I also have to choose which sound card I'll use :
-Ensoniq AudioPCI ES1370
-Genius SoundMaker XG PCI128 (Yamaha YMF724)
-SBLive
-SB Audigy 2 ZS
-Build something based on a PCM2906.
Just like this, can it be considered a good tape player? I mostly want to convert some tapes to CD. (I've already done it, but with a cheapo Toshiba deck and a motherboard audio codec)
I also have to choose which sound card I'll use :
-Ensoniq AudioPCI ES1370
-Genius SoundMaker XG PCI128 (Yamaha YMF724)
-SBLive
-SB Audigy 2 ZS
-Build something based on a PCM2906.
Hi DragonMaster,
These machines were better than many home units. The tapes should be played on the machine used to record them for the best quality. Things like azimuth and head height (track position on the tape) come into play. Speed is a consideration as well. Also, tape speed as you run through the tape as the load changes on the motor. At least the same model. CD-330 and PMD-360 can be considered the same model.
The sound card is used for recording, therefore the lower end cards will not work as well as something like a SoundBlaster X-Fi Elite Pro. Or some other "pro" card. There is discussion on this board if you do a search on "sound card" or "sound balaster" plus any other card you may think of.
I do have the SB Live! 24 bit. I'm using RMAA with it and can tell you there are issues with it. However, it may be good enough for you. I paid about $35.00 for an OEM version. f you want to try one out it's not that much money. It sounds okay on playback.
-Chris
These machines were better than many home units. The tapes should be played on the machine used to record them for the best quality. Things like azimuth and head height (track position on the tape) come into play. Speed is a consideration as well. Also, tape speed as you run through the tape as the load changes on the motor. At least the same model. CD-330 and PMD-360 can be considered the same model.
The sound card is used for recording, therefore the lower end cards will not work as well as something like a SoundBlaster X-Fi Elite Pro. Or some other "pro" card. There is discussion on this board if you do a search on "sound card" or "sound balaster" plus any other card you may think of.
I do have the SB Live! 24 bit. I'm using RMAA with it and can tell you there are issues with it. However, it may be good enough for you. I paid about $35.00 for an OEM version. f you want to try one out it's not that much money. It sounds okay on playback.
-Chris
Happy to know that!
Mostly commercial tapes. About every other tapes that I would "digitize" are made with the CD-330 😉
For the sound cards, I guess the Audigy2 is better than the SBLive 24bit. M-Audio is supposed to be good, but I'm not gonna buy an other card. (The ones I listed are the ones I have)
I should try a direct comparison between them.
Hi DragonMaster,
Let me know. I was under the impression that for recording, the Live and Audigy 2 were the same.
-Chris
Let me know. I was under the impression that for recording, the Live and Audigy 2 were the same.
-Chris
I have the Live Value 16-bit anyways.
If the Live 24bit is able to record 24/96, maybe it's the same, but the specs of the Audigy 2 are certainly better than those of the Live what else, how would Creative sell newer cards?
M-Audio ones are not as much featured(No hardware playback, EAX, digital inputs, stereo digital out) but they're supposed to sound better. They use Crystal/Cirrus DACs and ADCs I think.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I think I read somewhere the Ensoniq AudioPCI ES1370 and early SoundBlaster PCI128(Same thing) don't have as good specs but sound good.
Oh, and just before posting, there's one Audigy 2 sound card I know that uses Crystal DACs and maybe ADCs, the 2 ZS Platinum Pro. I don't have this one tho.
If the Live 24bit is able to record 24/96, maybe it's the same, but the specs of the Audigy 2 are certainly better than those of the Live what else, how would Creative sell newer cards?
M-Audio ones are not as much featured(No hardware playback, EAX, digital inputs, stereo digital out) but they're supposed to sound better. They use Crystal/Cirrus DACs and ADCs I think.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I think I read somewhere the Ensoniq AudioPCI ES1370 and early SoundBlaster PCI128(Same thing) don't have as good specs but sound good.
Oh, and just before posting, there's one Audigy 2 sound card I know that uses Crystal DACs and maybe ADCs, the 2 ZS Platinum Pro. I don't have this one tho.
Hi DragonMaster,
For recording, the thing I think makes a big difference is an external unit tied to the card. Lower noise this way. There also seems to be an issue with upsampling everything to 24 / 48 Khz. That's what the SB cards we have do.
If you do a search you'll find out a lot on this.
-Chris
For recording, the thing I think makes a big difference is an external unit tied to the card. Lower noise this way. There also seems to be an issue with upsampling everything to 24 / 48 Khz. That's what the SB cards we have do.
If you do a search you'll find out a lot on this.
-Chris
Yes, it either runs on 48kHz or 96kHz mode. With the Audigy 2 ZS I can choose which mode to use. (They call it the digital output mode selection but I think it changes the setting for all the card)
If I want to convert the tapes to CD, I think I should use the PCI128 or the Yamaha and if it's just to convert them to MP3 VBR or OGG, then a 48 or 96k record should do the job.
even more issues, the standard Live works at 18-bit I read somewhere. The inputs are super-noisy. A definitive no for the Live.
The external audigy is better for this reason, also because it uses I2S codecs instead of AC97 ones and it uses better ICs.
I guess the Audigy can be good. Maybe I should build a good external SPDIF ADC with it?
Or, if I return to the TI/BB PCM2906(Play + Rec), someone prefers PCM2706(Play only) to his TDA1543 DAC, so I guess these sound good. Also, they use a supposedly jitter free USB interface. It's stuck to 16-bit 48k maximum only. But, it doesn't resample the data!
If I want to convert the tapes to CD, I think I should use the PCI128 or the Yamaha and if it's just to convert them to MP3 VBR or OGG, then a 48 or 96k record should do the job.
even more issues, the standard Live works at 18-bit I read somewhere. The inputs are super-noisy. A definitive no for the Live.
The external audigy is better for this reason, also because it uses I2S codecs instead of AC97 ones and it uses better ICs.
I guess the Audigy can be good. Maybe I should build a good external SPDIF ADC with it?
Or, if I return to the TI/BB PCM2906(Play + Rec), someone prefers PCM2706(Play only) to his TDA1543 DAC, so I guess these sound good. Also, they use a supposedly jitter free USB interface. It's stuck to 16-bit 48k maximum only. But, it doesn't resample the data!
Now, a bit more in the topic, I think I should get the CD-330 leatherette case for it also, while there's an auction on one.
Also, there's a CD-310, seems to be a non-portable version of the CD-330.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/SUPERSCOPE-by-Ma...813274808QQcategoryZ71574QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If I'd like to get an other tape deck for an other place to replace the crappy Toshiba, is it a good choice? Or I should look for a Nakamichi BX?
Like this BX100 for 40$.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NAKAMICHI-BX-100...ryZ71574QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Also, there's a CD-310, seems to be a non-portable version of the CD-330.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/SUPERSCOPE-by-Ma...813274808QQcategoryZ71574QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If I'd like to get an other tape deck for an other place to replace the crappy Toshiba, is it a good choice? Or I should look for a Nakamichi BX?
Like this BX100 for 40$.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NAKAMICHI-BX-100...ryZ71574QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hi DragonMaster,
The 2 head Nak can sound good. It will need service first, so call the Nakamichi service center and find out how much $$ to return to spec. The 3 head units are incredible, I have a rebuilt BX-300. The problem is the eq, Naks are a little different than all other machines. A tape recorded on another machine should sound bright on a Nak. But the Nak is smoother and has less background noise.
Might be a good choice.
-Chris
The 2 head Nak can sound good. It will need service first, so call the Nakamichi service center and find out how much $$ to return to spec. The 3 head units are incredible, I have a rebuilt BX-300. The problem is the eq, Naks are a little different than all other machines. A tape recorded on another machine should sound bright on a Nak. But the Nak is smoother and has less background noise.
Might be a good choice.
-Chris
There's a BX-2 for 90$ with 5 hours remaining that is pre-serviced.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NAKAMICHI-BX-2-C...ryZ64598QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Also a BX-300 for 120$ with 18hours remaining but not serviced. It has new belts tho.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nakamichi-BX-300...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
The seller name for the BX-300 seems doubtful tho.
Oh, and I'll look for these later. I should start spending out a couple of hundreds very soon from my bank account for the tons of DIY projects I'm gonna build that I still haven't ordered the parts for.
(5 TDA1541A DACs, with EIAJ, SPDIF, I2S and USB inputs, rebuild of my 2 HF-12, a couple of "kwak clocks", a 10 channel "sound card", CD-330 rebuild, mains filter, remote-controlled source selector)
And, _THE_ problem, I'm still under 18 and don't have a work. 🙁 (No credit card and the money is coming in only at my birthday, christmas, etc.) At least, I don't often spend money ; around 100$ a year and this year was a "big" 200$ 😉
http://cgi.ebay.ca/NAKAMICHI-BX-2-C...ryZ64598QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Also a BX-300 for 120$ with 18hours remaining but not serviced. It has new belts tho.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nakamichi-BX-300...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
The seller name for the BX-300 seems doubtful tho.
Oh, and I'll look for these later. I should start spending out a couple of hundreds very soon from my bank account for the tons of DIY projects I'm gonna build that I still haven't ordered the parts for.
(5 TDA1541A DACs, with EIAJ, SPDIF, I2S and USB inputs, rebuild of my 2 HF-12, a couple of "kwak clocks", a 10 channel "sound card", CD-330 rebuild, mains filter, remote-controlled source selector)
And, _THE_ problem, I'm still under 18 and don't have a work. 🙁 (No credit card and the money is coming in only at my birthday, christmas, etc.) At least, I don't often spend money ; around 100$ a year and this year was a "big" 200$ 😉
You're so busy!
Since this is for playback, pick up a BX-2 (oldest series in the BX line). I hope the seller isn't pulling your leg. Have a good look at the head when you get it. Watch the tape motion across the head carefully.
-Chris
Since this is for playback, pick up a BX-2 (oldest series in the BX line). I hope the seller isn't pulling your leg. Have a good look at the head when you get it. Watch the tape motion across the head carefully.
-Chris
Won the BX-2 😀 😀 😀
Now, I have to (ask an 18+ to) pay and see if it's a fake auction and that I've just lost 120$ or not.
As for the head, could you be more specific? I just want to remember you that I'm new to "how tape drives work". I didn't even know what a demagnetizer was before a week ago.
Now, I have to (ask an 18+ to) pay and see if it's a fake auction and that I've just lost 120$ or not.
As for the head, could you be more specific? I just want to remember you that I'm new to "how tape drives work". I didn't even know what a demagnetizer was before a week ago.
The 2 head BX series use a normally soft head material. The tape will, over time, wear a path in the head. Once this path is established, you can not adjust the azimuth (HINT!). If you do, the tape will not have the head contact it needs and will "fight" the new path. The harder, or "glass = ferrite" heads wear in a different way and sound worse.
Look at how deep the path is. This gives you an idea what the time on the machine is. The interesting thing is this. There was a change in the drive system. The original system used an idler wheel to turn the reel tables. Some people just replace the tire (bad, the arm wears too). The new system uses a gear. Both the idler and reel tables are changed. The T/U tension is changed from 50 gr/cm to 35 gr/cm. So look at the edge of the reel table to see if it is toothed or not.
Use Pay Pal, you will be protected against a fake auction.
-Chris
Look at how deep the path is. This gives you an idea what the time on the machine is. The interesting thing is this. There was a change in the drive system. The original system used an idler wheel to turn the reel tables. Some people just replace the tire (bad, the arm wears too). The new system uses a gear. Both the idler and reel tables are changed. The T/U tension is changed from 50 gr/cm to 35 gr/cm. So look at the edge of the reel table to see if it is toothed or not.
Use Pay Pal, you will be protected against a fake auction.
-Chris
I just opened the package and found the unit lost in the middle of the foam "S"es. The top cover is scratched but that's about all. Plays great, no background noise in the sound.
I think the head is worn but I'll try to look closer an other time.
?!? All I know is that rewind produced some grinding noise when I first used it. The same grinding noise is heard a fraction of second when I press play when no tape is loaded.
I've got a list of what has been done during repair at the same time:
-Replaced Idler Assembly
-Overhaul Assist Motor
-Adjust Capstan Motor Speed
-Clean, Lube & Align Tape Assembly
-Clean & Demagnetize Heads
-Test
I now just have to wait for the CD-330 which was shipped tuesday.
I think the head is worn but I'll try to look closer an other time.
?!? All I know is that rewind produced some grinding noise when I first used it. The same grinding noise is heard a fraction of second when I press play when no tape is loaded.
I've got a list of what has been done during repair at the same time:
-Replaced Idler Assembly
-Overhaul Assist Motor
-Adjust Capstan Motor Speed
-Clean, Lube & Align Tape Assembly
-Clean & Demagnetize Heads
-Test
I now just have to wait for the CD-330 which was shipped tuesday.
Hi DragonMaster,
The grinding noise is hopefully the gear assembly. It should be a little noisier in fast wind also. Make sure the T/U tension was reduced. You might want to clarify whether the arm upgrade was done. It's important.
If not, the arm may be worn. There is a felt washer in there to provide torque to turn the arm. Worn arms have too much play and the idler runs at an angle to the reel motor and reel tables. Grind.
-Chris
The grinding noise is hopefully the gear assembly. It should be a little noisier in fast wind also. Make sure the T/U tension was reduced. You might want to clarify whether the arm upgrade was done. It's important.
If not, the arm may be worn. There is a felt washer in there to provide torque to turn the arm. Worn arms have too much play and the idler runs at an angle to the reel motor and reel tables. Grind.
-Chris
I don't have direct communication to the repair guy so what do I tell to the seller?
Can I look at this myself?
Oh, while being there, is there any Nak resources somewhere?
I found a Yahoo Group but my subscription is pending for 2 weeks.
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