The trouble I have is that in the UK I can order from EU or from US and now due to Brexit the import costs aren't much different.
A great leveller.
If I were to buy Visaton from my regular source in Germany, I expect the cost would be similar to buying from a UK distributor of SS or Seas.
So really £80 per woofer is about as cheap as either Dayton or Visaton get in the UK.
Seas etc is another step up in price, and for that hike in costs, I'd rather go and buy some Volt 8s
A great leveller.
If I were to buy Visaton from my regular source in Germany, I expect the cost would be similar to buying from a UK distributor of SS or Seas.
So really £80 per woofer is about as cheap as either Dayton or Visaton get in the UK.
Seas etc is another step up in price, and for that hike in costs, I'd rather go and buy some Volt 8s
Take a look at the Dutch and Dutch 8C for a compact cardioid.
That is very interesting build. Three 8" drivers sharing 35l volume - that's Incredible!
I found some info across the net, but mostly specs, measurements and nothing about how passive cardioid works.
Where I could find more details how they designed their enclosures?
I'm curious about the physics of cardioid speakers - how does it work? How to design this type of enclosure? May I have some links, please?
The trouble I have is that in the UK I can order from EU or from US and now due to Brexit the import costs aren't much different.
A great leveller.
If I were to buy Visaton from my regular source in Germany, I expect the cost would be similar to buying from a UK distributor of SS or Seas.
So really £80 per woofer is about as cheap as either Dayton or Visaton get in the UK.
Seas etc is another step up in price, and for that hike in costs, I'd rather go and buy some Volt 8s
For comparison only:
In EU Order the Seas L22RNX/P woofer - SoundImports
In UK Seas L22RNX/P H1252-08 Woofer - Prestige Series Woofer
In USA SEAS, L22RNX/P - Meniscus Audio
If you buy it from EU or USA retailer you'll pay nearly £115 for the same driver.
Little OT, but do you know reliable site where I can see Visaton drivers THD and so on measurements?This is another Visaton 8" I am dying to use for the past 5 years or so.
Would like to compared them to SB etc.
A four years ago I was looking for this driver, but seems it has been discontinued and I had to use SPX 20M. I've used many Monacor's in the past and TBH they have large deviations in their parameters, especially the cheaper ones.
I have the 20M also, measured response is ok with my two drivers, I can't see or hear any difference. That's what matters to me...🙂
For WAW projects they tend to be at the full range forum. You can target a 3" aluminium cone full range since you don't need bass. Markaudio Alpair 6.2 seems to get a lot of traction the other side. I only have the first generation, apparently it has improved a lot since then....OK guys. Respect to your knowledge, but I got a feeling like the tread went off topic. Let's discuss my next project "All Aluminium Cone WAW".
Yesterday I made a quick research, looking for another alu-cone fullrange driver, capable to perform very well treble tones without tweeter support. The main problem I faced is the low sensitivity of all of them. The SPL of 84dB is rated as "very good" for that kind of drivers.Taking into account the limited power, I have no other option, but using multiple drivers to get some satisfying listening levels.
Another option is just to go to some proven 3way, but that isn't what I would like to do.
Oon
Do not be fooled by simulations and F3 numbers. Just because it tunes that low does not mean it pushes enough air to remain low distortion. For 30 Hz to reproduce an upright bass well takes a couple of 12's.* There was an old rule of thumb: the decade rule. In other words, use drivers for only a decade. In the old days when we built monkey coffins, a 12 for 30 to 300, 4 for 300 to 3000, and a tweeter for 3000 up as an example. There is actually wisdom in that rule. Now we try to get a 6 inch to go from 45 to 2K and a 1 inch tweeter to go that low. Nice package, but pushing those darn laws of physics again. Some do pretty well, I think mine included, but far from perfect.
Yes, speaker building is a rabbit hole. 45 years and I am just scratching the surface. I have spent enough on generations of speakers, drivers that did not work out and quite a bit in test equipment where I could have bought some very nice speakers. But it is a hobby. Most commercial speakers are no better and some far worse.
That Visaton looks promising. After dealing with baffle step, looks like it may get up to a small midrange quite well. 800 or so looks do-able.
* Built a sub for my HT recently. 2 12 inch Dayton RS aluminum cones. In room, 30 to 100Hz I can get 98 dB with less than 2% THD. Any louder the low order harmonics skyrocket. It works for a HT as anything that loud is an explosion or something and the distortion does not matter. (They reach over 110 at X-Max in-room)
There are some expensive long excursion subs that can go louder for a big price.
Yes, speaker building is a rabbit hole. 45 years and I am just scratching the surface. I have spent enough on generations of speakers, drivers that did not work out and quite a bit in test equipment where I could have bought some very nice speakers. But it is a hobby. Most commercial speakers are no better and some far worse.
That Visaton looks promising. After dealing with baffle step, looks like it may get up to a small midrange quite well. 800 or so looks do-able.
* Built a sub for my HT recently. 2 12 inch Dayton RS aluminum cones. In room, 30 to 100Hz I can get 98 dB with less than 2% THD. Any louder the low order harmonics skyrocket. It works for a HT as anything that loud is an explosion or something and the distortion does not matter. (They reach over 110 at X-Max in-room)
There are some expensive long excursion subs that can go louder for a big price.
Coming out from my last project 7+4+1,which sounds pretty good, but not amazing. Although I've played with the passive x/o for almost 3 years and I got relatively flat response (+/- 3dB), I've never got the same coherent sound like my headphones. I suppose the different cone materials sound quite different way - the polypropylene midbass is punchy and dynamic, the paper mids are soft and delicate and the dome highs aren't sufficient in the top range over 10kHz. As a result the brass instruments and the cymbals sound quite unconvincing.
BTW I would like to try something with metal cone drivers. For more simplicity, I'll try some WAW with SB65WBAC25 without tweeter, crossed within 400 - 500Hz range, where is the baffle step frequency. The SPL over 1kHz is about 85dB, so I'll need some 8-9 inch, 4 ohm Al cone woofer with sensitivity 89 - 90dB (with serial inductor it drops to 88dB and 3 - 4dB for the baffle step).
My first choice was SB23NACS45-4 - pretty good on paper. Fitted in 45l ported box seems it has capability to reach f3 of 37Hz and f10 of 22Hz. Unfortunately it's not available in UK, but it's in stock in Soundimport NL.
Do you have any other suggestions?
Thank you in advance
Regards
Could you go a little larger? The Scanspeak 26W/4534 looks good, I've a pair, waiting for a project at the moment (2-way with a 10F). They sim very nicely in a ~45 Litre sealed cabinet.
Scanspeak 26W/4534G00 Woofer - Discovery Range
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