Forget electric jig saw. I used one to cut some 1/4" aluminium recently and it was slow. A chop saw will do the job, but you need everything locked down tight and to go at it very gently/carefully. A bandsaw is best. Realistically, any power tool is dangerous; you have to know what you're doing and be able to spot the signs that things are thinking of going wrong.
grataku -
I'm no beginner, and I still have all the fingers the good Lord granted to me...
I'm no beginner, and I still have all the fingers the good Lord granted to me...
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I've used miter saws and tablesaws to cut aluminum from time to time. Carbide cuts aluminum like butter.
A buddy bought a Delta Unisaw from Boeing Surplus years ago. It was pretty obvious that it had cut aluminum for its entire first life. It was in very nice shape but had aluminum in every nook and cranny
A buddy bought a Delta Unisaw from Boeing Surplus years ago. It was pretty obvious that it had cut aluminum for its entire first life. It was in very nice shape but had aluminum in every nook and cranny
Nope. With heavy heatsinks, I would not even need to clamp. But need to go gently. A TCT blade cuts through aluminium with ease.
When I did 3cm cutoffs from aluminium angle things got a bit hairy because the cutoff would easily go flying. So I had wooden templates securing the aluminium on both sides.
Jigsaws+aluminium=disappointment. Very difficult to remain on a straight line and the resulting edge is rough. For finer cuts, a dremel with a guide bush is an option.
I've cut a ton on table and miter saws with a non-ferrous blades. Lubricate with WD-40 and you get beautiful, perfectly straight, clean cuts.
If you're local to me you can borrow my blade.
Regards,
Dan
If you are really considering doing this yourself your best chance of success with regards to safety and a reasonably clean cut for a piece that large is a table saw with a carbide tipped blade. You can buy one that is designated as “non-ferrous metal cutting”.
I would personally avoid a compound/sliding chop saw even though I have a lot of experience doing this type of work.
The reason being is that there is always the chance that the blade might bite into the material aggressively and lurch towards you suddenly.
There is also the possibility of kickback with a table saw. At least in that scenario you can stand off to the side while feeding the material through the saw.
Your feed rate is important. Not too fast, not too slow.
Too fast, well that seems pretty obvious…all kinds of ugly things can happen.
Too slow makes it possible for friction to heat the material up more and possibly cause expansion and binding on the blade.
Honestly, if you have ANY doubts DON’T DO IT.
It will be SO easy to find a local metal yard where they do this all day long and will probably charge you $5-10 a cut.
I would personally avoid a compound/sliding chop saw even though I have a lot of experience doing this type of work.
The reason being is that there is always the chance that the blade might bite into the material aggressively and lurch towards you suddenly.
There is also the possibility of kickback with a table saw. At least in that scenario you can stand off to the side while feeding the material through the saw.
Your feed rate is important. Not too fast, not too slow.
Too fast, well that seems pretty obvious…all kinds of ugly things can happen.
Too slow makes it possible for friction to heat the material up more and possibly cause expansion and binding on the blade.
Honestly, if you have ANY doubts DON’T DO IT.
It will be SO easy to find a local metal yard where they do this all day long and will probably charge you $5-10 a cut.
I went back and rechecked what I said. I said the opposite, you sound very experienced. That's why what applies to you may not apply to the guy that wants to use the jigsaw...😎
Wire cut (wire EDM).
Find a machining shop that does work for tool makers, it is a fairly common machine.
I also have access to a laser cutting facility that will cut 16 mm in steel, and abrasive water jet. Both will work.
Wire EDM will be ideal, gentle, no metal flying around, good finish.
Find a machining shop that does work for tool makers, it is a fairly common machine.
I also have access to a laser cutting facility that will cut 16 mm in steel, and abrasive water jet. Both will work.
Wire EDM will be ideal, gentle, no metal flying around, good finish.
I will give a shot to the table saw with a Diabolo blade too. Bought mine at Patrick Morin, and did a great job cutting my aluminum balcony post. Be sure to clamp the heatsink firmly. You can also experiment putting somethings beetween the fins
What an amazing bunch you folks are, thanks a lot for all the recommendations, warning, etc. I’ll keep you posted 👍
The appropriately named Mr. Metal in Toronto (not sure what part of eastern Canada you are in) will do this type of work for a reasonable price (tens of dollars - certainly less than the cost of a non-ferrous blade). They have water jet cutting equipment. Originally thought about doing it on a table saw but after one too many sudden and painful kickbacks with wood, I feared a kickback cutting metal.
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Aluminum the next step from wood.
Use a metal blade on table saw or miter for straight cut.
Needs to be lubed with cutting fluid.
Spray the piece or the blade, or both.
Wear safety glasses.
Use a metal blade on table saw or miter for straight cut.
Needs to be lubed with cutting fluid.
Spray the piece or the blade, or both.
Wear safety glasses.