I can get the surface-level solder to come off, but components always end up stuck in place by solder in the hole that I can't get out. For two-legged components I'll heat one leg and pull from above until it releases, but this doesn't work as well for multi-legged parts. I feel like I'm doing something wrong, like there must be a cleaner, simpler method that pulls all the solder out of the hole.
I've used flux, I've tried priming the wick with a dab of solder, nothing makes any real difference.
I've used flux, I've tried priming the wick with a dab of solder, nothing makes any real difference.
I run the solder wick thru the flux container. It's a bit tedious, but it seems to work ok. This is after hitting the joint with a hand held pump.
jeff
There is a simple way to desolder the innards of the tht-holes: Use some pin made of a material that rejects solder, for instance V2A. I use that ugly thingy my dentist uses to remove plaque. Heat the via from the component side, set the pin just onto the solder blob. heat is as well. When hot enough, press on it and it will slip into the hole and press all the solder out of the hole. Remove soldering iron, wait a short moment. Now you can remove the pin that does not stick to solder, your via is open now😉
I use solder braid as well, but avoid if I can because it produces ugly sticking remnants of burned flux that are hard to remove.
I use solder braid as well, but avoid if I can because it produces ugly sticking remnants of burned flux that are hard to remove.
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Snip the legs off the old part right against its body, leaving little wire bits. Now heat each one and pull it from the hole with small cutters or tweezers. Now there is ONLY solder in the hole, which can be much more easily removed.
I use a steel sewing needle to push out molten solder, it does not stick to steel.
Braid, or pump to remove the solder.
But if the hole is large enough for the replacement part, enough, no need for further work.
Braid, or pump to remove the solder.
But if the hole is large enough for the replacement part, enough, no need for further work.
For multi pin parts I cut off the legs first as high up the leg as possible to leave a bit left.
Heat up the first leg then grab it quick with long nose pliers and pull it out.
Another trick that sometimes works is heating up the joint with plenty of solder on it then flick the pcb away from you and the leg and solder flies out, be sure to wear glasses though with the flying bits.
Sometimes a hot air gun will get out through items. But sometimes if theres a lot of copper on the other side it acts like a heat sink. Sometimes just gravity will pop out the component if heated from above.
Heat up the first leg then grab it quick with long nose pliers and pull it out.
Another trick that sometimes works is heating up the joint with plenty of solder on it then flick the pcb away from you and the leg and solder flies out, be sure to wear glasses though with the flying bits.
Sometimes a hot air gun will get out through items. But sometimes if theres a lot of copper on the other side it acts like a heat sink. Sometimes just gravity will pop out the component if heated from above.
Decide if you are saving the component or the PCB and cut accordingly.
ie removing a component for replacement, cut the component leads as described previous posts.
If salvaging useful components from a scrap PCB, cut the pcb into little pieces, between component legs, with a junior hacksaw
If you are removing a component to test & replace, well, that is difficult.
ie removing a component for replacement, cut the component leads as described previous posts.
If salvaging useful components from a scrap PCB, cut the pcb into little pieces, between component legs, with a junior hacksaw
If you are removing a component to test & replace, well, that is difficult.
First remove the part. Use thin pliers or tweezers. Then use a squeeze bulb. I don't like the pumps as they tend to leave splatters. But if that does not work, add a blob then smack it on the table. Always work fast so you don't damage the board. On and off. No sitting there. Sometimes solder wick works, but I dab it in flux first. Fresh solder melts easer than old. For dips, yes, cut them out and pill the legs one at a time. I do that to SMT packages as well.
Heating and immediately smacking the board sharply on the bench can work surprisingly well.
You may need to add some solder first. Give that a try.
You may need to add some solder first. Give that a try.
I keep a roll of crappy radio shack solder that I don’t use to assemble with, but it has a lower melting point. Flooding an area with it will allow an entire ic to be removed. Afterwards the remainder comes off using methods previously described above.
That's exactly how de-soldering wire works. 55/45 Bi/Pb is one such an alloy. Basically you remove as much solder as you can with the normal methods (pump, wick) then "solder" with the de-soldering wire. It'll mix with the solder already in the hole, thereby making it easier to remove.
Once you have the component removed, flood the hole with the alloy you intend to solder with, remove the solder. Then solder the replacement component.
I would use that method as a last resort. Mixing solder alloys is generally not a good idea.
BTW: All solder wick I've ever worked with has had flux in it already. Without the flux it'd be rather useless.
Tom
I use a tacky gel type flux, Stannol RMA04. I've tried a few different but this is by far the best. ChipQuick SMD291, which I think is kinda popular, is crap compared to this. Amtech RMA-223 is supposedly good flux but the cheap/fake Amtech available at the usual places is no good.
I rarely use wick, except for cleanup during repair work. Desoldering is done using a desoldering gun - life's too short for anything else. No more stupid pumps, needles or slamming boards and heat damaging pads or components.
That's just me.. For occasional desoldering of a few components, good solder, a quality pump, good wick and maybe a set of stainless, hollow "desoldering needle" (search eBay for this) works okay.
The 'goot wick' I've tried is not good wick. Chemtronics and Hakkowick is good wick.
I rarely use wick, except for cleanup during repair work. Desoldering is done using a desoldering gun - life's too short for anything else. No more stupid pumps, needles or slamming boards and heat damaging pads or components.
That's just me.. For occasional desoldering of a few components, good solder, a quality pump, good wick and maybe a set of stainless, hollow "desoldering needle" (search eBay for this) works okay.
The 'goot wick' I've tried is not good wick. Chemtronics and Hakkowick is good wick.
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The Beau Tech SH-222 Probe Tool Kit, 10 Mil, Rochard, 2-Pc. about $25.00 and a Hakko or similar vaccum solder sucker resolves many problems. Several other posts are also helpful.