Has any one built this 1KW amp?

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Well thanks Mr. Kimberator,
I bought this winding machine from scrap,rusted and not working condition,Cleaned it ,fitted with2" nylon blocks to increase working height,Aligned it,made a new reel carrier to take the load of 10" and up to 20 kg. reels,fitted with worm geared 30 volt D.C.motor pulley and v belt and paddle speed control and finally painted it.the table top small drill machine is fully made by me apart from d,c, motor and chuck(mouth),made from raw iron rods,plates,cast iron pipes,which I myself cut,worked on lathe machine,welded,grinded,drilled and fittedand finaly painted,my next hardware project is to make a big torroidal winding machine to wind kind of torrid traffos I have previously shown,some more photos of my work
regards to all senior members.
 

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Well thanks again Mr.Kimberator,
Here is what I have been collecting for next steps,all sort of ferrite cores,can I go now to next classes,what do you suggest Mr. Kimberator,waiting eagerly for your project.
Regards
 

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Photos of the Multisim file of Rod Elliot modified.Please All the learned seniors correct me if there is any thing wrong in this or if can be modified more,as results in Multisim are showing mentioned results.
VedMitra Sharma
 

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Yeah, You're About Right Tony But.....

one issue, the input LTP offset adjustment pot, 200ohm, a fixed resistor of say 330ohms per side to the wiper arm makes for a bullet-proof design....should the pot open up in the field, you are sure to use all your output trannies....
May Be You're About Right, But I Think It Depends On What Quality Pot You're Using, In My Personal Experience There's Nothing Better Than The Use Of Fixed Resistors, But That's Limits The Adjust, Sometimes Necessary, DC Offset, This Is Why I Always Use ALPS Sealed Precision Multiturn Potentiometers, This Way I Can Assure That You Don't Have Any Issues With Pot For Long Time, Or Make Proper Calculations To Get The Right Values With Fixed Resistors.....Just My Point Of View, Best Wishes To Anyone😀😀😀
 
May Be You're About Right, But I Think It Depends On What Quality Pot You're Using, In My Personal Experience There's Nothing Better Than The Use Of Fixed Resistors, But That's Limits The Adjust, Sometimes Necessary, DC Offset, This Is Why I Always Use ALPS Sealed Precision Multiturn Potentiometers, This Way I Can Assure That You Don't Have Any Issues With Pot For Long Time, Or Make Proper Calculations To Get The Right Values With Fixed Resistors.....Just My Point Of View, Best Wishes To Anyone😀😀😀

the cost of potentially losing all of the output trannies alone is reason enough to think of ways to get rid of the pot altogether, matching input LTP's is one of them.....
 
You won't "lose all of those output trannies" if you lose the offset null pot. But it will put DC - a lot of DC - to the speaker :Ouch:

The real reason to get rid of the pot is noise. Pots are noisier than any resistor and an input stage is the worst place to put noise.
 
Well, I Don't Remember Any Issue About Open Pot Or Noisy Signal Due To A LTP Pot Anyway..At Least Not In My Amps Designed And Built By Myself, Not A Single Issue On That Particular Matter, For What I've Reading Here Now I Think Is Pure Good Luck....
 
my new torrid verses earlier one

Now my old torrid has become smaller,I got a big brother for it,That was 40 amps 230 volt and this one 60 amps 230 volt, only 35 k.g. weight, Secondary to be wound on both
 

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