Bob Brines said:
Bob, you might want to try the Fonken or Brynn. Sure you'd likely want stereo woofers below 100 or so for the full meal deal, but given the above description of SPL and program material, either could be quite interesting.
The Fonken does particularly well on acoustic stringed and small wood and brass wind instruments, not to mention female vocals ( Alison Krauss, Loreena McKennet, the Wailin Jennys, Ella, Esperenza Spalding, Jacqui Naylor, etc)
loninappleton said:
Like all BLHs, it has one. It's called the listening room.
You can fool with the WxD dimensions to make a wide-baffle one if you like. Shouldn't be a particularly big deal.
Anyway, it's a fair point: if you want bass, you either a) go with a huge, ~optimal hyperbolic horn, or b) use a bigger driver. The Fonken & it's variations do have a good reputation however, especially for material like baroque or female vocal (I should get chance to hear a pair in a few months, at the next UK audio meet I'm going to). So I wouldn't write the 127 off just yet.
Bob Brines said:
This is refreshing thought, Chang's BVR likely benefit with large fullrange, my build of Mikasa with 5" is lacking in "grunt".
gychang
Partly the small driver size, but also partly the fact that you're using a driver the cabinet is not designed for, with a high Q & natural resonance.
BTW, Mikasa isn't a BVR.
(*edit* OK, so all chambered BLHs can technically be regarded as such, but I'm refering to the difference between boxes where the dominant action is reflex, not horn / QW.)
BTW, Mikasa isn't a BVR.
(*edit* OK, so all chambered BLHs can technically be regarded as such, but I'm refering to the difference between boxes where the dominant action is reflex, not horn / QW.)
Hey, how do you stuff these?
I'm used to p10 et al speakers being felt underlay on 1 of every pair of opposing surfaces, but I thought I saw a thread somewhere where someone felted the entire interior surface of their box.
Are the half changs and the full changs alike in this regard?
Also, is the felt more highly regarded than the mashed-up open-cell foam underlay that they sell more commonly around here?
Thanks!
I'm used to p10 et al speakers being felt underlay on 1 of every pair of opposing surfaces, but I thought I saw a thread somewhere where someone felted the entire interior surface of their box.
Are the half changs and the full changs alike in this regard?
Also, is the felt more highly regarded than the mashed-up open-cell foam underlay that they sell more commonly around here?
Thanks!
To taste. 😉
I'd line opposing walls with carpet underlay or 1in acoustic fiberglass if you can get hold of it. I'm not much of a fan of foam, as it's easy to overdo it -wool underlay is better, again, if you can get it.
I'd line opposing walls with carpet underlay or 1in acoustic fiberglass if you can get hold of it. I'm not much of a fan of foam, as it's easy to overdo it -wool underlay is better, again, if you can get it.
Do keep in mind that if you are only lining a single side that the most effective side to put it on is in the middle of the box (conviently right where the holey driver brace is there to hold it.
(we have started experimenting with just in the middle as opposed to all sides which has been our norm)
dave
(we have started experimenting with just in the middle as opposed to all sides which has been our norm)
dave
Adam,
I built a HC using Parts Express egg-crate style foam & it worked out well. I haven't used the wool carpet underlay, so I can't comment on that.
Cheers, Jim
I built a HC using Parts Express egg-crate style foam & it worked out well. I haven't used the wool carpet underlay, so I can't comment on that.
Cheers, Jim
Pioneer B20 vs 207?
anyone have chance to compare the speakers in the Half Chang cabinet?
gychang
anyone have chance to compare the speakers in the Half Chang cabinet?
gychang
I originally built the half chang's with fe206's like a couple of others in this tread. I moved on to MJK's open baffle project. I went back to the half chang's and dropped in the B20's added a small tweeter as you did in your thread - Pioneer 8" build, the Chang variant - and have been quite pleased with the results.
To my ears there is not a great difference. What I can say is different, is in Diana Krall's Live in Paris album, when the drummer swirles the brush on the drum surface, the sound is not as crisp and clear with the B20 setup. With the fe206's, I could really hear that sound as I would in a live event.
The fe206's when back in the original configuration, the MJK MLTL with the Baffle Step correct circuit.
My 2 cents for what it is worth.
To my ears there is not a great difference. What I can say is different, is in Diana Krall's Live in Paris album, when the drummer swirles the brush on the drum surface, the sound is not as crisp and clear with the B20 setup. With the fe206's, I could really hear that sound as I would in a live event.
The fe206's when back in the original configuration, the MJK MLTL with the Baffle Step correct circuit.
My 2 cents for what it is worth.
bluemartini said:
this is very helpful, u had a chance to compare. Hopefully will get a chance to build with B20+tweeter in HC cabinet.
gychang
that's what i am currently working on. i've been having one heck of a time figuring out where to mount the tweeter in the HC. right now the plan is to make the HC per the plans, then add a 1 inch silk dome tweeter in a U or H frame to the top.
Scottmoose said:
How about a sheepskin? we have plenty of sheep.
(apologies to those who have a moral objection to fur)
HI there, i was writing a quistion before in this thread, but it was in a middle of something else discussed at that moment...
As wrote before, i have build the HC with the FE207 driver's, and i have been experiating with some coil/resistor combination, for tuning them, to my need's.... But i found that putting them closer to wall/corner, was the best to do.
Well, i have been experimenting with a "helpersub", and that's really the way to go for my need's, as i think they lack a little, at lower freq. - Where that point start's i can't really tell, so i was hoping that someone could point out where the sub, should be taking over, with thoose FR ?
I would also like to test, putting in a passive xover, on the HC.
Any suggestion's ?
The sub i am using is a Rythmik audio diy, sealed sub, 12inch driver a30peq-plateamp. http://rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html
Jesper.
As wrote before, i have build the HC with the FE207 driver's, and i have been experiating with some coil/resistor combination, for tuning them, to my need's.... But i found that putting them closer to wall/corner, was the best to do.
Well, i have been experimenting with a "helpersub", and that's really the way to go for my need's, as i think they lack a little, at lower freq. - Where that point start's i can't really tell, so i was hoping that someone could point out where the sub, should be taking over, with thoose FR ?
I would also like to test, putting in a passive xover, on the HC.
Any suggestion's ?
The sub i am using is a Rythmik audio diy, sealed sub, 12inch driver a30peq-plateamp. http://rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html
Jesper.
Attachments
Offset driver placement
Speciallly to Scott and other Half Chang Builders.
What is the optimum offset driver placement for a FE206 in Half Changs....?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
George
Speciallly to Scott and other Half Chang Builders.
What is the optimum offset driver placement for a FE206 in Half Changs....?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
George
The one shown on the plan. That's why it's there. If you desperately wish an alternative for some reason, you could use 12.5in down.
Scottmoose said:
Thanks a lot Scott but the question is about the left - right offset, if any and not up - down. In the plans looks like a bit offset.
Thanks again
George