Of course when it's safe to do so. However, I have been in hiding and don't have the little bug, and I'm a white haired "at risk" old fart. If anyone is going to croak, it would probably be me. That's also the way my luck runs. Double damned.
I'd love to hear your speakers. You did a fine job finishing them, that's for sure.
-Chris
I'd love to hear your speakers. You did a fine job finishing them, that's for sure.
-Chris
Thanks Chris. I invite you to come over and have a listen when its safe. One of the great things about being an 'old fart' is we have accumulated some wisdom to recognize early that its time to hunker down and make the best of it.
Walter,
Wow!! Excellent!! You finally finished
The boxes look great!! I bet you like the bass
Regards,
Allan
It's just an ex kitchen table.
Here's the shot of the amp where it now lives.... on it's moving dolly. The amp behind it is a Yamaha P2200 Class AB from the 70's. The heatsinks are 20"x10" each side, the overall width is about 17". It was supposed to fit between the uprights of a 19" rack. Very cramped inside.
Here's the shot of the amp where it now lives.... on it's moving dolly. The amp behind it is a Yamaha P2200 Class AB from the 70's. The heatsinks are 20"x10" each side, the overall width is about 17". It was supposed to fit between the uprights of a 19" rack. Very cramped inside.
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The transformer is stupid oversized. It is a plitron toroid with 5 sets of 60-0-60 secondaries. putting out 2.4 KVA. Wired as 240 volt primary, it only does 30-0-30, 1.2KVA.
4 sets of secondaries are used out of the 5, two sets of secondaries per channel, giving 480 VA per channel. (I've been told that's an underrated value, and to expect 600 VA/channel due to the transformer running at 1/2 voltage. )
The transformer weights 20.1 Kg. A small auxilliary transformer is in the box to power the capacitor bank slow charge relays. It has 88000 uF of storage per channel, mounted vertically on the back of the face plate. It has two sets of rectifiers, also on the face plate, so it's fully dual mono up to the primaries.
Biased to around 80 watts peak Class A into 8 ohms. It has 4 pairs of secondaries, so it can be used on 4 ohm speakers. Into 4 ohms, it's 40 watts class A, or 20 WPC class A RMS. That's 1KG of transformer per 4 ohm class A watt.
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Plitron Transformer
An oversized transformer usually is a good thing for sound and an oversized Plitron is even better. No doubt it delivers with authority.
I'm getting parts for the Salas phono now. It's expensive. Rcore transformers 2x30va. Two boxes.
Also installed the Behringer mods analog I/O replacement board into a deq2496. Great update for cheap.
About to mount a terminator arm on a lenco.
Maybe you guys might have an idea. I got s stepped attenuator from China, So it is totally passive so no "fake" parts. The idea of chassis came up and I decided to go with a ready made all assembled box. I just don't have the necessary machinery to make it nice.
Finished HIFI Remote volume Controller 128 steps /4 way input + display | eBay
All in all it is well put together. Decent transformer and the remote feels like a real quality piece as it is feels like a solid piece of metal. The buttons themselves are metal!
My idea was that I could use this and then play around with different preamp stages without messing with inputs and gain controls. This would make a versatile preamp setup.
At first the remote did not work. Took it apart and scanned for bad solder joints etc and nothing came up. Looked over and over again, took my meter out and nothing coming out of the CR2032 battery holder. Then I saw what the problem was! it was not the soldering work which was fine, it was the manufacture of the button cell holder itself. The tangs that are supposed to contact the edge of the button cell was never bent up to do so.
I quickly fixed that and everything was working fine.
Hooked it up to my system and used it in passive mode. Wow. Did not realize how veiled my preamp had become. So I was stepping through each relay combination and it worked perfectly. Then I was listening to some music and I happened to increase the volume from 64 to 65 and I heard a soft pop not extremely sharp. Turned off the source and then stepped through everything. Silent. Perfect. So I started stepping through that 64 and 65 range and I could reproduce it.
So I then turned down the source to it and it was silent again.
The chain is as follows, PC to Khadas Tone Board USB Dac to attenuator to power amp to speakers. I reduce the source level via windows volume control. So the DAC is working at a constant level except for the data being sent to it.
Any ideas? The only thing I could think of is that the relays are possibly sending interference somehow to the PC. The attenuator is totally detached from the signal except for the contacts. It only happens at 65 so the relay combination at just that point (65) is doing something.
Odd huh?
Finished HIFI Remote volume Controller 128 steps /4 way input + display | eBay
All in all it is well put together. Decent transformer and the remote feels like a real quality piece as it is feels like a solid piece of metal. The buttons themselves are metal!
My idea was that I could use this and then play around with different preamp stages without messing with inputs and gain controls. This would make a versatile preamp setup.
At first the remote did not work. Took it apart and scanned for bad solder joints etc and nothing came up. Looked over and over again, took my meter out and nothing coming out of the CR2032 battery holder. Then I saw what the problem was! it was not the soldering work which was fine, it was the manufacture of the button cell holder itself. The tangs that are supposed to contact the edge of the button cell was never bent up to do so.
I quickly fixed that and everything was working fine.
Hooked it up to my system and used it in passive mode. Wow. Did not realize how veiled my preamp had become. So I was stepping through each relay combination and it worked perfectly. Then I was listening to some music and I happened to increase the volume from 64 to 65 and I heard a soft pop not extremely sharp. Turned off the source and then stepped through everything. Silent. Perfect. So I started stepping through that 64 and 65 range and I could reproduce it.
So I then turned down the source to it and it was silent again.
The chain is as follows, PC to Khadas Tone Board USB Dac to attenuator to power amp to speakers. I reduce the source level via windows volume control. So the DAC is working at a constant level except for the data being sent to it.
Any ideas? The only thing I could think of is that the relays are possibly sending interference somehow to the PC. The attenuator is totally detached from the signal except for the contacts. It only happens at 65 so the relay combination at just that point (65) is doing something.
Odd huh?
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Yes, every combination or level above the 65 is OK. Now the odd thing is that sometimes it makes no pop at all. It only happens when there is a signal going through and at that level.
This has me baffled as it appears to be digitally based with some kind of noise from the relays breaking through and only when a certain amount or combination is used.
Going up and coming down. When 65 is reached, the noise is heard.
I'll move the cables around and play a bit I think it is pulse of some type breaking into the DAC but why at lower levels???????? nothing. Only at higher levels......OK it must be coming through the DAC at higher levels when the data is of a certain length. I will change the DAC and see.
This has me baffled as it appears to be digitally based with some kind of noise from the relays breaking through and only when a certain amount or combination is used.
Going up and coming down. When 65 is reached, the noise is heard.
I'll move the cables around and play a bit I think it is pulse of some type breaking into the DAC but why at lower levels???????? nothing. Only at higher levels......OK it must be coming through the DAC at higher levels when the data is of a certain length. I will change the DAC and see.