Good tweeters to cross low, at most 1500 Hz

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
#22
hi Scott,
The Fostex FT48D could well be a good option, but how good would it be vs eg the Seas of measured low distortion & great CSD?

The Peerless 810921 has not as good CSD but better (lower) distortion than the 27TBFCG . . priorities . .
 
#24
In the over $100 catagory:

ScanSpeak D3800

A superb tweeter with an Fs of 450Hz. Integrates beautifully with a 12", 15" or even 18" woofer in a 2 way system. Wonderful harmonic structure that makes instruments and voices sound very real.

I've been listening to a pair 40 hours a week for 3 years and still love them.

Hard to beat. But the price keeps going up and up. Guess the weak dollar doesn't help. =(
 
#26
SS 3800

Yeah, I know, I know..

But it's a tweeter. Believe me.

For fans of high sizzly "air", it might not do it for you - but I don't like that stuff. Sounds unnatural to me kinda Hi-Fi fake to me. But tastes vary.

The 3800 really gets the meat of the music right. I guess most people don't think the low end of a tweeter is important, so they don't buy the 3800. The top 1/2 of the top octave is the least of my worries, so I groove on drivers that do magic in the upper mids. There is so much more music there - the harmonics that give an instrument its signature sound.

The 3800 is not hard to crossover.

I'll leave the pursuit of the 14 to 22KHz range to other folks. I like my music down where I can hear it. =) If sizzle is your thing, this won't be your driver. Always hard to convince people to send $$ on a tweeter that doesn't look like one. 😀
 
#27
Pano

You’ve taken my thinking one step further (and $40/ driver higher) . .

Interesting idea to integrate with a 12/ 15/ 18" in a 2 way!

I agree 100% that 14 – 22 KHz might be nice, but unless you have very good (usually young) ears, the upper mids are far more important – we can all hear them, and there’s more music their.

What’s the lowest you've crossed the 3800, and have you experimented enough to say what you think you could get it down to, with say a 4th order? 1000?

Thanks
 
#28
Otto,
Depends on how much power you want to throw at it, but it should do 100W a 1Khz 2nd order hi-pass no problem. I will double check on that.
I beat mine up pretty bad here at work, huge room. They are crossed low to a 12", but I don't remember where, maybe 1K or lower. I'll double check. Never had a problem.

These will mate up really well tonally with a 12 or 15" paper cone woofer - don't know if they will be a tonal match for your metal mid-woofs or not.

But I can also vouch for the Seas 27TDFC, if not crossed too low. 1.5KHz no worries. Great sounding tweeter. And superb value for money.
See this thread: Manzanita 12s
 
#29
pano
While the SS has the excellent SD motor, does it measure better than the $30 27TBFCG, and is an extra ~400 Hz (~half an octave) worth an extra $220/ pair?
. . . available funds and aims; sonic benefit? . .

It’d be great if you could check what Hz you used the SS at.

Taking your “bigger tweeter - upper mid” idea further, the 50 mm “full rangers” Jordan JX53 (Fs 110 Hz) or its rival/ clone(?) Bandor would give great added flexibility with XO points/ integration, and quality wise are both almost in the SS league.
The Jordan (was ~$90) seems to have been replaced by the JXR6 HD, which goes lower, and therefore overkill. The Bandor:

Pic http://www.audiodome.nl/bandor50a.htm

Specs & FR http://www.audiodome.nl/bandor50para.htm
Limited power handling but the square faces & choice of ohms makes it easier to abut a pair.

You’re right that an aluminium cone like Jordan/ Bandor two might match better with metal mid-woofs.

I'll check the Manzanita 12s (my net connection is very flaky)
Two * 2” Bandors might be a good mate for a 12/ 15/ 18 incher.
 
#32
Well, if I were judging on FR plots alone, I would never choose the SS 3800, for sure.

But that's not the whole story, there is a lot more to the sound of a driver than it's FR plot. A lot more. Maybe waterfall plots and impulse test and that sort of thing could help. But so does hearing it! 😀 This driver is a real sleeper. It seems not to be popular because of its price and because it doesn't have the pretty plots of a "real" tweeter. Pity - because it sure can make music.

Last night while I was posting, the 3800 were playing blues piano. They just really nail the piano sound like little else I've heard. All that complex harmonic structure that makes a piano sound like a piano, know what I mean?

You would think - and I have - that the little full range cone speakers should do the same thing. And in some ways they do, put they just never seem as refined as the 3800.

I'm still trying to dig up the crossover point I use, but a buddy of mine is using his paired with 18" drivers. 10uF and 1.25mH on the SS 3800.


Anyhow, I'll stop my rambling. Just wanted to point out that this is a great driver that gets overlooked because few people understand it. But it really plays music. And makes for a simple and wonderful 2-way with a big woofer.

There are plenty of good tweeters out there that will mate with a midrange.
 
#33
HMM = ?

Hidden Markov Model?
Hazardous Materials Management?
Heroes of Might and Magic?

y8s,
Thanks for the link. I’m likely to go cauer-elliptic, as well as a tweeter that’ll go low.

Pano,
I’m not looking at FR plots, but the CSD & HD plots.
Still curios about the crossover point

Cheers
 
#35
As low as c 800 Hz (even 6th order or CE) surprises me a little but would be very flexible in tuning/ appealing. 🙂 Would power handling be restricted?

I’m trying to find out if any of the Fostex full range units, which could certainly go low enough, have enough power handling to get to 100 dB.

(I’m also shopping for prices on the 3800 & Peerless 810921 -may have access to a discount- and the 27TBFCG (domestic high price & low freight v Madisound lower price & higher freight))

Cheers
 
#37
MDT33, or the newer variant. Low FS, high excursion and power handling. high efficency, means less stress on the tweeter, as well. 92.5db. Go with a 24db at 1500, or lower slope with less output. The replacement domes aren't that expensive. Crossing stuff over at that Fs (any of the midrange area) can be tricky. Those are important ares for the ear. You can also do 'quasi' 12's and 'quasi' 18's by moving the secondary legs of the crossover further out. You are well into trade-off areas for both drivers, anyway.

Or better yet, just go ribbon with a low FS and be done with it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom