assuming is not enough for me to consider the speaker, i need more data. But as it's a relative cheap speaker i still put it on my list, maybe i order a pair to measure first myself, and sell again if they don't fit my plan.
In my own, pretty tiny, experience of what I would call midrange drivers, the flattest I have used is
Visaton Al130. Not the M variant. Ultimately limited to 2 to 2.5kHz, but flat as can be throughout that passband, easily to within +/- 2dB or better. The lack of HF extension is a limit. Perhaps the M version can do better, but in Boxsim, I have never really been able to make it perform significantly better.
The Monacor MSH115, is flat, but not as perfect as the Visaton, probably +/-2dB would be a difficult target, but it covers a vast range, and sounds clean and natural, more live, than the aluminium AL130 which has little sound of its own in its usable range.
The Faital 4FE32 is good, loud, but ugly and not quite as smooth as the Monacor again. I got them ridiculously cheap, so I am not complaining, as the 4FE32, looks just that bit better in terms of flat FR, maybe due to lack of obstructive magnet structure - but cheapest I could find those was 3 times the price I paid for the 4FE35.
Visaton Al130. Not the M variant. Ultimately limited to 2 to 2.5kHz, but flat as can be throughout that passband, easily to within +/- 2dB or better. The lack of HF extension is a limit. Perhaps the M version can do better, but in Boxsim, I have never really been able to make it perform significantly better.
The Monacor MSH115, is flat, but not as perfect as the Visaton, probably +/-2dB would be a difficult target, but it covers a vast range, and sounds clean and natural, more live, than the aluminium AL130 which has little sound of its own in its usable range.
The Faital 4FE32 is good, loud, but ugly and not quite as smooth as the Monacor again. I got them ridiculously cheap, so I am not complaining, as the 4FE32, looks just that bit better in terms of flat FR, maybe due to lack of obstructive magnet structure - but cheapest I could find those was 3 times the price I paid for the 4FE35.
MW13TX and 26ADC in Augerpro 5" oval waveguide - narrow cabinet, crossed at 2kHz. Best detailed and focused stereo image I've ever had 👍
If you're sensitive to cross-overs... then I can't see why 3500Hz is better than 2000 or 2500Hz. It's still clearly within the sensitive area - so should be a wash.
What you should focus on, is the best possible horizontal dispersion - smooth, even and neutral.
I run active though.... tons more options to get the finer details perfect - IMO.
I played for a long time with RS125 and Seas DXT - which plays wonderfully. SB Textreme and the ADC simply has more detail and clarity - even though both system plays smoothly at all angles and with a very neutral response.
If you're sensitive to cross-overs... then I can't see why 3500Hz is better than 2000 or 2500Hz. It's still clearly within the sensitive area - so should be a wash.
What you should focus on, is the best possible horizontal dispersion - smooth, even and neutral.
I run active though.... tons more options to get the finer details perfect - IMO.
I played for a long time with RS125 and Seas DXT - which plays wonderfully. SB Textreme and the ADC simply has more detail and clarity - even though both system plays smoothly at all angles and with a very neutral response.
For highend i would use 12MU (or mw13tx)
And for low-cost monacor msh-116/4
https://www.hifitest.de/images/testbilder/big/number-one-msh-1164-car-hifi-mitteltoener-18736.jpg
And for low-cost monacor msh-116/4
https://www.hifitest.de/images/testbilder/big/number-one-msh-1164-car-hifi-mitteltoener-18736.jpg
Has anybody used the Tangband eight inch, W8-2145? My thoughts are to cross it at 500 Hz & 3000 Hz...???
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
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Not me, though looks/specs really good on paper, but having long experience with wide range 8" it seems a bit of a waste unless a 1st order XO is used and/or its polar response up high is required with sealed ~150 Hz/2nd order allowing full 80 W power handling, ~2844 Hz VC frequency upper pistonic limit, so could 'push' the XO point to 3 kHz if other factors require it.
Coupled to a vintage prosound spec 15" + bullet horn tweeter could make for a nice vintage EV 3 way or similar replacement. 😉
Coupled to a vintage prosound spec 15" + bullet horn tweeter could make for a nice vintage EV 3 way or similar replacement. 😉
From what I can gather, the polar response of large dome mid-range drivers doesn't really start to "act up" up to about 2500+ Hz...this seems to match with the non-pistonic action we 're finding.
I'm going with the low-excursion, larger surface area equals lower distortion theory. I am intending to adjust the sealed volume to adjust the Q a little below the "optimal" 0.707 we all hear about, intending to "make it more real".
Given this driver is only running at 90 Db, a "pro-sound" driver running the typical 95+ Db, would be a difficult match, especially considering the high Fs typically 40 hz...rendering a poor bottom end.
========================================================================================Rick...
I'm going with the low-excursion, larger surface area equals lower distortion theory. I am intending to adjust the sealed volume to adjust the Q a little below the "optimal" 0.707 we all hear about, intending to "make it more real".
Given this driver is only running at 90 Db, a "pro-sound" driver running the typical 95+ Db, would be a difficult match, especially considering the high Fs typically 40 hz...rendering a poor bottom end.
========================================================================================Rick...
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General question as a spectator to this thread. I'm looking at building some stand mounted 8" three way speakers (4 way if you count the subwoofers).
Regarding midranges, I'm looking at perhaps the Dayton RS225-4 or the Dayton professional driver the PA200 to handle midbass duties and take it from maybe 100hz to a midrange to crossover up to the tweeter. For the mids I'm thinking either some Faital Pro, Dayton RS100 or Dynavox as options.
In any case, I'm mostly concerned with thoughts on using a pro driver as a midbass specifically the PA-200 versus gong with one of the traditional high value low distortion options like the Dayton.
Regarding midranges, I'm looking at perhaps the Dayton RS225-4 or the Dayton professional driver the PA200 to handle midbass duties and take it from maybe 100hz to a midrange to crossover up to the tweeter. For the mids I'm thinking either some Faital Pro, Dayton RS100 or Dynavox as options.
In any case, I'm mostly concerned with thoughts on using a pro driver as a midbass specifically the PA-200 versus gong with one of the traditional high value low distortion options like the Dayton.
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