Mark,
It's on the sign up sheet in cell H1. I don't want to post it here, for spam reasons 😉
Blue bom
Here I edited the BOM. Small differences, have to do with snap in main filter caps, *film caps for the 5 leds bypass, TO-220 rectification diodes, and 10R 5W for hot rod current. The PCB still has places for small diodes and 68R//68R 1/2W current set resistors for anybody wanting to run it on conservative current. Using big or small diodes excludes sourcing/fitting the other type.
The power trafo recommended is 15-0-15 VAC secondary, 50VA power. EI, toroidal, R-Core, whatever you fancy.
I attach the specs for the relay, just 1 needed for delaying the output, and releasing fast, so to avoid turn on thumps and DC offset power off cycle. Either a 5V or 12V Panasonic TQ2 or Omron 6GH or similar. Get 12V if available so to avoid voltage dropping and some heat on its feeding circuit. Example.
Remember, just an input rotary switch makes the Blue edition a multi input unity gain pre amp. Your volume pot should be 10k-20k log stereo. Switched type with fixed resistors or even LSPD are superior.
*The film cap mod has a nice space in this PCB, to take almost anything you wanna subjectively try. From 0.1uF to 10uF plastic or even 10-100uF 5mm electrolytics. 0.22uF MKP-10 Wima is suggested as a good indicative one as found by early testers. YMMV.
Here I edited the BOM. Small differences, have to do with snap in main filter caps, *film caps for the 5 leds bypass, TO-220 rectification diodes, and 10R 5W for hot rod current. The PCB still has places for small diodes and 68R//68R 1/2W current set resistors for anybody wanting to run it on conservative current. Using big or small diodes excludes sourcing/fitting the other type.
The power trafo recommended is 15-0-15 VAC secondary, 50VA power. EI, toroidal, R-Core, whatever you fancy.
I attach the specs for the relay, just 1 needed for delaying the output, and releasing fast, so to avoid turn on thumps and DC offset power off cycle. Either a 5V or 12V Panasonic TQ2 or Omron 6GH or similar. Get 12V if available so to avoid voltage dropping and some heat on its feeding circuit. Example.
Remember, just an input rotary switch makes the Blue edition a multi input unity gain pre amp. Your volume pot should be 10k-20k log stereo. Switched type with fixed resistors or even LSPD are superior.
*The film cap mod has a nice space in this PCB, to take almost anything you wanna subjectively try. From 0.1uF to 10uF plastic or even 10-100uF 5mm electrolytics. 0.22uF MKP-10 Wima is suggested as a good indicative one as found by early testers. YMMV.
Attachments
Hi Salas, please advise to use 12V versions of the relays. That is better technically and there is no need for turning power into heat for no reason. All power loss will be a large number when added up. Simple but true. The 12V version can be found on Ebay, Farnell etc.
BTW maybe the PCB can be changed in another run to cater for both the TQ2-12V and the standard telecom relays like Takamisawa RY12W-K and all the variants of literally all relay manufacturers. Those can be found everywhere at lower costs and there are made very good versions of those.
BTW maybe the PCB can be changed in another run to cater for both the TQ2-12V and the standard telecom relays like Takamisawa RY12W-K and all the variants of literally all relay manufacturers. Those can be found everywhere at lower costs and there are made very good versions of those.
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might want to put on new BOM 25mm width on caps as max 25mm. Maybe.
I don't disagree with Jean-Paul, 12v relays makes much more sense. Only 6v when in a pinch. 🙂
I don't disagree with Jean-Paul, 12v relays makes much more sense. Only 6v when in a pinch. 🙂
Just mentioning the less optimal part will result in people buying that part as we have seen in the past. AFAIK that is why there is provided in voltage drop resistors on the PCB's....
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Historically they had bought many 5V sets because there were available on ebay and the 12V was scarce for some, hence the provision for alternatives. The 12V part is the main recommendation guys.
Pardon if this is a stupid question but for the Mesmerize board 6 pos switch section, does the audio signal actually travel along the switch wire, or is the switch just an on/off for the different relays? Hope that makes sense.
Would be keen to pick up a Mezmerize PCB when the next run is done. Along with a GB of any of the components...
Taz.
Taz.
Hi Tea-bag
Not sure if we are supposed to alert you here on diyaudio about payment.
Are we?
Well anyway, just paypal'd for one Blue edition and one set of PRP resistors.
Originally had two blue edtion pcb's on the spreadsheet, but decided in the end to just buy one board, so I updated the sheet just now also.
Thanks very much
Curt
Not sure if we are supposed to alert you here on diyaudio about payment.
Are we?
Well anyway, just paypal'd for one Blue edition and one set of PRP resistors.
Originally had two blue edtion pcb's on the spreadsheet, but decided in the end to just buy one board, so I updated the sheet just now also.
Thanks very much
Curt
Mistertaz,
Those Panasonic TQ2 -12v relays cost about $6ea at RS Components, (only local supplier) - are about $2+ from "eeelectronics" in HongKong (eBay) - about to order 10 of them - want some?
Those Panasonic TQ2 -12v relays cost about $6ea at RS Components, (only local supplier) - are about $2+ from "eeelectronics" in HongKong (eBay) - about to order 10 of them - want some?
I bought 20 relays using an Ebay source.
3 did not work, 1 was damaged. Seller re-funded for the 4 non-usable.
Luckily, I needed 16 relays for 2Mez & 2Hyp.
3 did not work, 1 was damaged. Seller re-funded for the 4 non-usable.
Luckily, I needed 16 relays for 2Mez & 2Hyp.
Taz,
No mesmerize runs planned for now.
Someone else on the thread may offer you a spare one.