Do you want the led to indicate power on or do you want it to light up the room??? 😀
20mA sounds like A LOT if you are using normal leds, but perhaps you have a special one. Try with 10k soldered very lightly and then switch to something else if you are unhappy with the brightness.
20mA sounds like A LOT if you are using normal leds, but perhaps you have a special one. Try with 10k soldered very lightly and then switch to something else if you are unhappy with the brightness.
Do you want the led to indicate power on or do you want it to light up the room???
😛😀😉
I to used something like up to 30K...Otherwise it gets anoing I think..
Cviller,
Is it still possible to order 2 pcb`s from you?
Thanks in advance.
-edit: and also the psu boards (can`t exactly find if you have those available)
Is it still possible to order 2 pcb`s from you?
Thanks in advance.
-edit: and also the psu boards (can`t exactly find if you have those available)
Last edited by a moderator:
Cviller,
Is it still possible to order 2 pcb`s from you?
Thanks in advance.
-edit: and also the psu boards (can`t exactly find if you have those available)
Yes, it is still possible here: http://viller.eu/gb
I'm still waiting for my shipping supplies before I can start sending, but it should be here during this week.
I have sent all the us orders yesterday and I found out that I could just order the cn22 forms, so when they arrive, I'll be able to ship the few remaining orders.
I still have more boards available.
BTW: I have had problems with my server the last 10 hours due to someone pressing the reset button
on the router at my hosting service place (underneath my father in-law's desk...), but my mail and website is running smoothly again.
I still have more boards available.
BTW: I have had problems with my server the last 10 hours due to someone pressing the reset button

Do you want the led to indicate power on or do you want it to light up the room??? 😀
20mA sounds like A LOT if you are using normal leds, but perhaps you have a special one. Try with 10k soldered very lightly and then switch to something else if you are unhappy with the brightness.
Yep, 20mA is what the specs. are for the Blue LEDs I am using, no, I'm not trying to light up the room.

Shhhhhh, don't tell anyone, it's a secret, but I'm doing something special on the front panel with them.
I'll post a pic when its done.
BTW, Willing to ask foolish questions I don't know the answers to, here's todays
Where exactly do I connect the test leads from the multimeter at startup?
One set to the +/- of the speaker output terminals and the other set to (Each side of R12?) or is it between R12 and something else??? Duhhhh
Thanks,
Ron
You want to measure the current through the mosfets, which is most easily done by monitoring the voltage drop over R12, so YES, you connect the meter to both ends of R12. (and R11 later)
Cviller -- a little OT -- but the New Jersey Audiophile Society also supports the same charity through a bike-ride.
I am just recovering from getting "doored" as a gal opened up her SUV as I was zoomin' past.
I am just recovering from getting "doored" as a gal opened up her SUV as I was zoomin' past.
any thoughts on making F4 pcbs?
I'm quite sure I'll make them within not too long. I'll make two mirrored boards for two channels with fets on only one side of the board. They'll look kinda like this:
http://viller.eu/audio/2007mar_f4/assembly/P1040566.JPG
Cviller -- a little OT -- but the New Jersey Audiophile Society also supports the same charity through a bike-ride.
I am just recovering from getting "doored" as a gal opened up her SUV as I was zoomin' past.
That is horrible - and it happens way too often. 🙁
I'm always a bit nervous when riding past a row of parked cars...
You want to measure the current through the mosfets, which is most easily done by monitoring the voltage drop over R12, so YES, you connect the meter to both ends of R12. (and R11 later)
Thanks Chris, that's what I thought. Always good to be sure and ask thou.
Ron
Jackinnj,
Sorry to hear about your crunch, I hope you are recovering quickly and completely. Been there myself.....not fun.
Last edited:
I got the silly cn22 forms today, so I have finally been able to ship all the pending orders. 😀
I'll keep the site http://viller.eu/gb open as long as I have boards left.
I'll keep the site http://viller.eu/gb open as long as I have boards left.
Do you think that these heatsinks would work for the F5??
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Large-High-Fin-Density-Heatsink-MOSFET-8x6-7-8_
W0QQitemZ150370749072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2302cb8a
90&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Large-High-Fin-Density-Heatsink-MOSFET-8x6-7-8_
W0QQitemZ150370749072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2302cb8a
90&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Do you think that these heatsinks would work for the F5??
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Large-High-Fin-Density-Heatsink-MOSFET-8x6-7-8_
W0QQitemZ150370749072QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2302cb8a
90&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I think you'll be able to make it work with one per channel.
Thanks Chris, When you say 1 per channel do you mean one for each output device or one for each channel being left and right.
I am concerned that they may be a little small being only 8" wide
I would rather have "overkill" than "overheat" 😀
I am concerned that they may be a little small being only 8" wide
I would rather have "overkill" than "overheat" 😀
Thanks Chris, When you say 1 per channel do you mean one for each output device or one for each channel being left and right.
I am concerned that they may be a little small being only 8" wide
I would rather have "overkill" than "overheat" 😀
I hoped you would say that! 😉
I meant two for a stereo amp, but you will be close to the margin, I think. So make a nice box with four.... 😎
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