The US shipping should be piece of cake - I just need a source for cheap bubble wrap envelopes and figure out if I can print stamps online. I have finally heard from the shipping company and our 3 m^3 will arrive tomorrow between 8 and 9. 
We were told that shipping would take 5 weeks, but it has taken 7.
I'll be at Emerald bay this weekend, so I wont be able to send any boards before next week, but if the boards look unharmed, I'll open for orders tomorrow.
We were told that shipping would take 5 weeks, but it has taken 7.
I'll be at Emerald bay this weekend, so I wont be able to send any boards before next week, but if the boards look unharmed, I'll open for orders tomorrow.
Cviller,
Per your gbf5_guide.pdf document, you stated that you had substituted BC transistors for the ZTX transistors. As long as the collector/base/emitter designations are adhered to, is it okay to subsitute the equivalent ZTX transistors instead? I know the 'curve' then will be on the opposite side. The reason I ask is because the Tech DIY Company Store offers these transistors with their F5 parts package.
Best,
Anand.
Per your gbf5_guide.pdf document, you stated that you had substituted BC transistors for the ZTX transistors. As long as the collector/base/emitter designations are adhered to, is it okay to subsitute the equivalent ZTX transistors instead? I know the 'curve' then will be on the opposite side. The reason I ask is because the Tech DIY Company Store offers these transistors with their F5 parts package.
Best,
Anand.
Looking around for bubble mailers, I found that most of the smaller ones price at around $.10/ea.. Here is one source: http://www.packagingprice.com/forms/product_detail.cfm?categoryID=10019&productID=515 Hope this helps.
Yeah, you got it right.
The BC's and ZTX's have the same pin sequence - just flipped.
westend and dgss, thanks for your tips!
Now my boards are here!!!
I have re-enabled my simplistic little order site her:
http://viller.eu/gb
I should be able to ship sometime next week or perhaps the week after, if I need to wait for bubble wrap envelopes.
I have re-enabled my simplistic little order site her:
http://viller.eu/gb
I should be able to ship sometime next week or perhaps the week after, if I need to wait for bubble wrap envelopes.
Payment is easiest with paypal. I had a slow week at work when I made my order site, so I figured out how to connect it to paypal, which means if you go to checkout you'll get transferred to paypal.
So just go to http://viller.eu/gb and it should be very easy.
a couple of questions...
OK , I just read all 89 pages ot this thread and some of the various side threads and links, and most of my questions were answered somewhere along the way.... however I do have a couple of questions left
1) for the PS there seems to be 2 possible configurations CRC and CLC.
What are the pros/cons of CLC
2)I did not see much talk about pre-amps that work well with the F5.
I have a BOZ, will this combo be ok?
3)also not much talk of speaker pairings.
I am considering both building and or possibly purchasing speakers specifically for the F5.
This is probably not the right place to ask for possible suggestions for speakers or kit designs but I'm asking anyway
Thanks to all involved!!
OK , I just read all 89 pages ot this thread and some of the various side threads and links, and most of my questions were answered somewhere along the way.... however I do have a couple of questions left
1) for the PS there seems to be 2 possible configurations CRC and CLC.
What are the pros/cons of CLC
2)I did not see much talk about pre-amps that work well with the F5.
I have a BOZ, will this combo be ok?
3)also not much talk of speaker pairings.
I am considering both building and or possibly purchasing speakers specifically for the F5.
This is probably not the right place to ask for possible suggestions for speakers or kit designs but I'm asking anyway
Thanks to all involved!!
Reading the whole thread????? Impressive!! 
1) CLC is more expensive because you need to get some large inductors. If you get something decent, your filter will reject more of the charging noise. CRC is a lot better than simply C, but the circuit also rejects some noise. You can see the noise from charging as 120hz if you're running it out of 60hz outlets.
2) It has 15db gain, which is lower than most commercial power amps, but you should be all-right with just about any preamp.
3) As for speakers pairing, you can also try what ever you like, but the F5 is very detailed which might be too much for some speakers, but it also depends on the ears.
1) CLC is more expensive because you need to get some large inductors. If you get something decent, your filter will reject more of the charging noise. CRC is a lot better than simply C, but the circuit also rejects some noise. You can see the noise from charging as 120hz if you're running it out of 60hz outlets.
2) It has 15db gain, which is lower than most commercial power amps, but you should be all-right with just about any preamp.
3) As for speakers pairing, you can also try what ever you like, but the F5 is very detailed which might be too much for some speakers, but it also depends on the ears.
Yeah, I have made some holes for them. If you show a picture I might be able to tell you if it will work. But if you're unsure about it I would suggest to just go for the CRC.
Chris,
I'm about ready to power up my F5 that I built using your boards. Just Beautiful!
Remember I owe you a beer at BA in October!
Before I put power to them, I have a question about the voltage present on the LED solder pads, are they 24V or 48V?
ie; positive referenced to ground or Positive referenced to Negative rail?
Checking the continuity, they seems to be referenced to ground. But I thought I should ask before I burn up my LEDs.
I should have asked before I soldered in Resistors calculated for 24V, but it's not too late to change them if I need to!
Thanks,
Ron
I'm about ready to power up my F5 that I built using your boards. Just Beautiful!
Remember I owe you a beer at BA in October!
Before I put power to them, I have a question about the voltage present on the LED solder pads, are they 24V or 48V?
ie; positive referenced to ground or Positive referenced to Negative rail?
Checking the continuity, they seems to be referenced to ground. But I thought I should ask before I burn up my LEDs.
I should have asked before I soldered in Resistors calculated for 24V, but it's not too late to change them if I need to!
Thanks,
Ron
Did I miss something..............?????????
or am I just lost again.
Thanks Chris,
But.......I think you are thinking of the other R who's value is 22K not R35
R35 value for 1 blue LED is 1.2Kohms.
At 10K your not going to light up a LED. With 24V supply and 3V forward drop across the LED, your only going to supply 2.5mA.
Thank you for being quick on the keyboard though!
Ron
OK,
now that I have looked up Papa's F4 schematic, it am totally confused.
It looks like he has a 22.1K resistor for his LED.
Yet, when I used an online LED resistor calculator for a pair of Blue LED 3.3V 20.mA in series driven by a 24V source, I came up with a R of 870 Ohms and .58 watts. Rounding up I have (and installed) a 1K Ohm 1Watt.
This seems radically different than either 10K or 22K.
Help a brother understand what the difference is.
Lost again
Ron
now that I have looked up Papa's F4 schematic, it am totally confused.
It looks like he has a 22.1K resistor for his LED.
Yet, when I used an online LED resistor calculator for a pair of Blue LED 3.3V 20.mA in series driven by a 24V source, I came up with a R of 870 Ohms and .58 watts. Rounding up I have (and installed) a 1K Ohm 1Watt.
This seems radically different than either 10K or 22K.
Help a brother understand what the difference is.
Lost again
Ron
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