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Gb: F5 Pcb

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#801
Hi Christian -

Regarding your PSU board... What's the area in the red oval for in the attached image???

Thanks,
 

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#805
Your suggestion appreciated

Christian,
I've got a bunch of Panasonic T-HA 33,000uF 35V 105deg 35mm x 80mm 'industrial' grade caps I'd like to use with your PSU boards. The ESR is really low .015 (lower than any of the THSAs) and all other specs equiv. But these are std 4-terminal mount, top vent !
Question, what would you suggest as best/possible way to adapt to your boards 10mm 2pin pattern?

Charles
 
#808
cowboy99 said:
Actually 39,000uF T-HA ECET1VA393EA DigiKey P10628-ND

I do appreciate your opinion!
Charles
Click to expand...

Are the "extra" pins to be connected to gnd or + or nothing at all?
It should be fairly simple to drill new holes and just bend the legs to touch the solder pads. Alternatively, you can remove the solder mask on the rail traces and solder them in directly, just remember that you need to use the plated holes in order to reach the gnd plane on the top side of the pcb, so no drilling through those holes. 😉
 
#810
Re: Your suggestion appreciated

cowboy99 said:
Christian,
I've got a bunch of Panasonic T-HA 33,000uF 35V 105deg 35mm x 80mm 'industrial' grade caps I'd like to use with your PSU boards. The ESR is really low .015 (lower than any of the THSAs) and all other specs equiv. But these are std 4-terminal mount, top vent !
Question, what would you suggest as best/possible way to adapt to your boards 10mm 2pin pattern?

Charles
Click to expand...


Hi, I ordered these 4 pin type panasonics (mine were TSUP series). The extra two pins do nothing. I think they are to force a certain orientation so you don't put them in the wrong way. I just cut them because they were in the way with no ill effect.
 
#811
I received your boards today cviller, thanks!

I also happen to have 4 pin caps that I was hoping to use with the boards with some modification. I didn't realize the pin spacing on the caps were 22.5mm :bigeyes: so I think it might be a bit more difficult than I expected to get them to fit.

cviller said:


Are the "extra" pins to be connected to gnd or + or nothing at all?
It should be fairly simple to drill new holes and just bend the legs to touch the solder pads. Alternatively, you can remove the solder mask on the rail traces and solder them in directly, just remember that you need to use the plated holes in order to reach the gnd plane on the top side of the pcb, so no drilling through those holes. 😉
Click to expand...
 
#816
Cviller,

Do your PS boards come with Rectifier PCBs also? I'm awaiting PS's for my F5's and prefer the simplicity of rectifier boards along with the PS boards. I really liked the simplicity of Peter Daniel's Power supply set but it seems Peter may not be in a rush to make another run and I would rather not P2P my PS. I also would like to know if the shipping includes multiple boards, like two sets for $30 + $10S/H, Just curious... Peace.

EDIT: Sorry just opened the wiki and saw your boards don't come with the rectifier boads included you charge $7 per board or $14 more per supply. I'm sorry for wasting your time I think I may just wait for another option seeing as $68 for PCB's is a tad steep for me, Thanks again.
 
#817
speakrsrfun said:
Cviller,

Do your PS boards come with Rectifier PCBs also? I'm awaiting PS's for my F5's and prefer the simplicity of rectifier boards along with the PS boards. I really liked the simplicity of Peter Daniel's Power supply set but it seems Peter may not be in a rush to make another run and I would rather not P2P my PS. I also would like to know if the shipping includes multiple boards, like two sets for $30 + $10S/H, Just curious... Peace.
Click to expand...


I have made some rectifier boards, which are also available.

I'm not sure I get your question regarding prices, but the shipping is flat rate no matter how many boards you order. You can calculate on my fancy website: http://viller.eu/gb 😀
 
#820
toufu said:
This is my first amp project, and I got some big heatsinks, what's the best way to mount Q3 and Q4 to them? Do I tap the heatsinks and screw them on?

Thanks.
Click to expand...


Yes that sounds like an excellent plan. Just remember to electrically isolate the backside from the heatsink and use a washer for the screw to distribute the force. Look here to see how papa does:

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt7/2_7.jpg
 
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