sp-200x
Hi Cal,
Yes its in centimetres... And I forgot, the lenght of the port is 7.6 cm...
Good luck Martin
Hi Cal,
Yes its in centimetres... And I forgot, the lenght of the port is 7.6 cm...
Good luck Martin
smallangryboy said:Illusus - cheers
planet10 - as far as I understand it, Ted assembles the drivers, the components are shipped in, though I could be wrong, but I'm not going to split hairs, we source them from the UK, that's close enough for me !
The JX92s are still built by Vifa. Ted tests deliveries and then ships them out.
Colin
Here some pictures of my other small 5.0 HT system based on the Tangband W3-871s units.
(Lancetta HE in Cyburgh's Needle outfit and 2x CT209 / 1x CT209AL)
All filters applied are the same as the Lancetta High-End version.
All cabinets are increased in outher size for cosmetic resons.
The cabinets are made of 10mm thick MDF, finished with silver paint all arround.
The Needle's have a compartment at the bottom filled with the filter and sand.
(Lancetta HE in Cyburgh's Needle outfit and 2x CT209 / 1x CT209AL)
All filters applied are the same as the Lancetta High-End version.
All cabinets are increased in outher size for cosmetic resons.
The cabinets are made of 10mm thick MDF, finished with silver paint all arround.
The Needle's have a compartment at the bottom filled with the filter and sand.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Landroval said:Why the W3-315SC for the center? To me it sounds clearly different than a W3-817S.
@ Landroval :
The W3-315SC sounds just a little bit different in the middle/high freq.
after an experiment with different units for the centre I found out
that in this configuration the W3-315SC sounds more open and
detailed .
Placed in the Needle the W3-315SC didn't sound that great, to
much, little agressive in the middle.
But for voices, comming over the centre unit it sounds quite perfect.
Ok. I can see your point there. I usually prefer identical L-C-R speakers, but if your way sounds better I see no reason not to keep it that way.
to Planet 10:
I listened to Tom Z's horn at Bob's the other day. I found them excellent in the upper range and they had fantastic lower bass. Amazing for that size of a speaker. After listening for a while, we did stuff the horn with some poly stuffing to eliminate the mid-bass honking. I wonder if you found the same problem? I also had to deal with the same problem with my Jordan transmission lines and also had to use stuffing in the vent to remove some of the mid-bass honking.
/Joe
I listened to Tom Z's horn at Bob's the other day. I found them excellent in the upper range and they had fantastic lower bass. Amazing for that size of a speaker. After listening for a while, we did stuff the horn with some poly stuffing to eliminate the mid-bass honking. I wonder if you found the same problem? I also had to deal with the same problem with my Jordan transmission lines and also had to use stuffing in the vent to remove some of the mid-bass honking.
/Joe
JVA said:I listened to Tom Z's horn at Bob's the other day. I found them excellent in the upper range and they had fantastic lower bass. Amazing for that size of a speaker. After listening for a while, we did stuff the horn with some poly stuffing to eliminate the mid-bass honking. I wonder if you found the same problem? I also had to deal with the same problem with my Jordan transmission lines and also had to use stuffing in the vent to remove some of the mid-bass honking.
Where did you put the polyfluff... the honk in the mids was the most objectionable issue (i still haven't heard the 2nd pair yet)
dave
Planet 10
I just stuffed the pollyfill a short distance up the horn opening.makes it easy to remove.
Joe
I just stuffed the pollyfill a short distance up the horn opening.makes it easy to remove.
Joe
Hi there.
I did Nagaoka D58-ES for front speakers and D37 for back speakers using FE208EZ + FT96H and FE168EZ :
http://satriany.free.fr/pages/enceintes/index.php
Greg.
I did Nagaoka D58-ES for front speakers and D37 for back speakers using FE208EZ + FT96H and FE168EZ :

http://satriany.free.fr/pages/enceintes/index.php
Greg.
usa_satriani, very impressive! What kind of paint / finish did you use? Too bad the link you have there is not English!! Which plans did you use?
Thank you, have a good day
(Need to get back to work)
Thank you, have a good day
(Need to get back to work)
Thanks but I did not spend some time to translate almost all my site in english to get that kind of comment 😉 Just click the english flag 😀
You can find some picture of the assembling there too.
I used Mr Nagaoka plans that you can find on some japanese sites or in his books available at Madisound.
The finish is two layer of Vernish, mahogany tree colour. I find this colour quite warm and beautiful, suits with my appartement.
Greg.
You can find some picture of the assembling there too.
I used Mr Nagaoka plans that you can find on some japanese sites or in his books available at Madisound.
The finish is two layer of Vernish, mahogany tree colour. I find this colour quite warm and beautiful, suits with my appartement.
Greg.
Greg
Question, do you prefer one of the speaker sets over the other? Curious as to your thoughts regarding the two different drivers/horns.
Thanks!
Question, do you prefer one of the speaker sets over the other? Curious as to your thoughts regarding the two different drivers/horns.
Thanks!
Hi,
I like more the D58 because they have deeper bass response and the FT96H is doing a good job. On the D37 I am only using a FE168EZ without a tweeter but I should put one to get clearer and better highest frequencies.
I am also powering the D58 with a Naim NAIT which is quite an excellent amp and only a T-amp for the D37.
But for a true full-range speaker, the D37 is quite amazing, you just enjoy the music.
I hope I answered you question, feel free to ask anything.
GreG.
I like more the D58 because they have deeper bass response and the FT96H is doing a good job. On the D37 I am only using a FE168EZ without a tweeter but I should put one to get clearer and better highest frequencies.
I am also powering the D58 with a Naim NAIT which is quite an excellent amp and only a T-amp for the D37.
But for a true full-range speaker, the D37 is quite amazing, you just enjoy the music.
I hope I answered you question, feel free to ask anything.
GreG.
Re: front view
how low do they go. they look beautiful to me esp for such a small cabinet. maybe the 108 sigma's might offer an upgraded sound.
doggy said:Had these 16 ohm monarch 3-1/2",alnico,steel frame round holes in basket.... 12" wide X 30-1/2" high X6-1/4" deep; inside baffles are 4-3/16" wide....They don't go down to far but a very enjoyable and cohesive sound. ...
how low do they go. they look beautiful to me esp for such a small cabinet. maybe the 108 sigma's might offer an upgraded sound.
Hi guys,
Here is a quick pic of the Zigmahornets (with FE103E drivers) I recently put together.
Originally they were going to be light coloured so I put a maple veneer on them. We then decided to go with a mid tone so I applied a teak stain. Maple does not take stain well! Took much exta work to make them look good... The cabnets are made from 5/8" MDF. I routed a curve on the front two edges so I could wrap one piece of veneer around the front and sides. Plus it gives a nice smooth look...
Anyways this was the first time I had even done anything like this and enjoyed it very much. I discovered I really enjoy woodwork and have since bought a bunch of tools to help (mostly one tool - a Shopsmith).
I picked the Zigmahornet design since I figured it would look good with our new TV. They sound great as well, so now I am thinking of building new speakers for the theatre room! (Although a hushbox for my projector would be the best increase per dollar in sound performance 🙂)
Maybe some Voigt Pipes for the theatre... I have a 14' ceiling in there so I can make some huge ones!!!
Thanks, James
Here is a quick pic of the Zigmahornets (with FE103E drivers) I recently put together.
Originally they were going to be light coloured so I put a maple veneer on them. We then decided to go with a mid tone so I applied a teak stain. Maple does not take stain well! Took much exta work to make them look good... The cabnets are made from 5/8" MDF. I routed a curve on the front two edges so I could wrap one piece of veneer around the front and sides. Plus it gives a nice smooth look...
Anyways this was the first time I had even done anything like this and enjoyed it very much. I discovered I really enjoy woodwork and have since bought a bunch of tools to help (mostly one tool - a Shopsmith).
I picked the Zigmahornet design since I figured it would look good with our new TV. They sound great as well, so now I am thinking of building new speakers for the theatre room! (Although a hushbox for my projector would be the best increase per dollar in sound performance 🙂)
Maybe some Voigt Pipes for the theatre... I have a 14' ceiling in there so I can make some huge ones!!!
Thanks, James

My modest addition to this great thread:
2*103S ACR in small BR
Soon another Beyma speaker will be added for the bass, making this set up a (not so conventional) 2 way driver.
2*103S ACR in small BR

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Soon another Beyma speaker will be added for the bass, making this set up a (not so conventional) 2 way driver.
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