Yes, but as the whizzer is attached to the main cone at end of voice coil firmer, there’s still only one motor driving them.
As for “crossover”, if this was something like the numerous true wideband drivers which many of us here have played with for decades, it opine it could well be either a notch filer or baffle step loss compensation network - neither of which separate the signal into separate pass bands.
But the example in your photo reminds me of Magnepan planars, most of which are definitely multi-ways.
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At what frequency is Rel sub blended in? Bass is supposed to be omni-directional, but have you tried the Rel on the side instead of behind the baffle to see if sound changes?
My latest silly speakers. Dayton PS95 in open baffles made by cutting an ancient wine display box in half with a Japanese pull saw, cutting holes in the drill press, and wiring up through the high-level side of a 10" sub. EQ to a slope from bass + 4 dB to treble - 7 dB. Actually sound amazing as far as imaging and sound stage. Best with the short side in, and now behind monitor plane a bit. Took hardly any time, mostly finding my circle cutter!
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Which dampening material would be preferred for suppressing vibration/resonance on driver basket and open baffle cabinet?
XPE foam material (light-weight closed cell foam) like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3352646489...lp:2332490&itmmeta=01JMZ1AEADME5TNY1RP6T3XPBB
VS
Alu-Butyl material (more rubbery) like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1869278572...opGCoUd+bx5Q8Y/dHZf/5aDQ==|tkp:Bk9SR46ql-KnZQ
XPE foam material (light-weight closed cell foam) like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3352646489...lp:2332490&itmmeta=01JMZ1AEADME5TNY1RP6T3XPBB
VS
Alu-Butyl material (more rubbery) like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1869278572...opGCoUd+bx5Q8Y/dHZf/5aDQ==|tkp:Bk9SR46ql-KnZQ
No.I put them on the back because I noticed it would fit.Tried if the sound was affected negatively in any way but it wasn' t.It tidies things up.That' s the only reason.
Out of boredom and curiosity, I put a CD case on each of the magnets of my "table lamp without the shades" speakers, and the soundstage is much improved. Now they look like lighthouses with helepads. They're still a little shy in the treble, perhaps wood squares with holes, so they can slide down over the magnets, closer to the speaker cone might help.
I built a pair keen full range horns, Frugel-Horn Mk3s (FH3s), for my living room (LR) stereo. I am using the fine & affordable Mark Audio Pluvia 7.2HD drivers in them with 30g of stuffing each in the throat and trap. Thanks Scott, DLugos, and all the DIYers who tried, modeled, and tweaked the design (if anyone has a correct hornresp model for these please let me know ~ I could not get the model right on the last segment with curved "mouth"). I reallocated my recently built NanoOnkens, complimented by a new Onken-like center channel, to my family room 5.1 theater; so I needed to backfill the LR speakers. I haven't done horns since building the DRC BLHs in 2020. The FH3s in 15mm Baltic birch with the MA drivers are fabulous and very affordable. The chord and angle cuts on these are not simple (requiring me to purchase a band saw) and the cut sheet is very tight ~ I persisted through and am so glad I did. I tried several positions for the corner horns and favored a tighter spacing for listening than fully optimized for bass (on the right channel). I checked and measured augmenting the FH3s with a subwoofer ~ ultimately it is not required to ~40Hz, so cool. I also attempted to tighten the response curves with PEQ filters on each channel ~ ultimately again EQ wasn't really needed, so cool. So, I removed the sub and miniDSP, and my LR kit now consists of the new FH3s driven unadulterated by the Elekit TU8200R amp loaded with modern Tung Sol 6550s for power and NOS '60s Valvo ECC82s pre-amp with an "integrated" 16bit/48KHz delta-sigma DAC; my sources are a tiny Linux JRiver MC streamer and wireless AptX HD receiver with integrated 32bit/384KHz ESS Sabre DAC (nice DAC but really only 24bit/48KHz, 586Hz CBR, is used for streaming over bluetooth). I await warmer weather to finish the FH3s but listening to Nashville Americana and bluegrass is glorious. Despite it's inexpensiveness, this kit simply sounds great.
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The further audio adventures of the FH3s might be of interest to the team. I rolled through 5 alternative full range 4" drivers in the FH3 cabinets today. Prior, also, I'd rolled 5 OpAmps in my integrated Elekit DAC; ultimately I chose the Linear Technologies LT1364 (details HERE). Then, again on the DAC front, I compared and trialed the Schiit ModiMB2 to the optimized Elekit DAC ~ it's the cheapest multibit (kindof) DAC I could find. The Modi multibit bested the Elekit delta sigma (details HERE). With electronics and tubes (prior rolled details HERE ~ late in the post) I was set for a driver roll ~ in the adventure were drivers from other builds I've made: Fostex FE108EΣs (classic 1Khz dip), Fostex FE108NSs, Mark Audio Pluvia7.2HDs, Tang Band W4-2356s, and titanium Tang Bang 4-1337s. The MAP7s are incredibly solid, very wide range, musical drivers... I love 'em in several builds: NanoOnkens, FH3s, and more. Still, others are worth a look. The Fostex FE108NSs (New Sols) were completely awesome in the FH3 bake off (highly recommended)... I love these even more for near-field listening and returned them to the Blandas. The others, but for the new titanium TB1337s, were also returned to their initial cabinet homes... insufficient improvement from the Mark Audio P7s (various reasons). The new TB1337s were spectacular in the FH3s; equal in "feel" to the MAs, more dynamic though IMO, but 2X the price. Both had best of test, strong back-loaded bass from the FH3s. I am keeping both and will listen to both... the new titanium TBs are in there now. Everything from orchestra glockenspiels to timpani to double bass were rendered solidly. Vocals and strings from AJ Less, Molly Tuttle, Sammy Rae, and many more were splayed in a keen soundfield on both the new TangBands and the venerable MarkAudios. I might yet tame the 100Hz-300Hz humps but 40Hz-20KHz is pretty incredible... this kit rocks.
@dcoffin super impressive how every 4" drive goes to 40 Hz, the horn cabinet technology is delivering. 200 Hz area fluctuations are probably the wall reflections, could you pull them from the wall and throw some pillows in the corners, just for sake of measurement? I think you can dramatically improve everything under 500 Hz just with hand waving.
But the rest of the curve above 500 Hz looks too wild to me. Is that the baffle or the drivers? The curve I am playing right now:
details in the TB coax drivers thread, those are W6 coax. And this is on desktop, I have a table reflection, I have a large monitor and a window between the speakers, and they are touching the wall. Important to compare that I am using 1/12 smoothing, with 1/6 smoothing I don't have enough details to compare tweaks. The bass rolls over much faster than yours because I have sealed boxes. Measured from the listening position, exactly as I hear them.
P.S. I know your desktop build, it is definitely far superior to mine, so my post is more about if you can do more with those closing the gap with your desktop.
But the rest of the curve above 500 Hz looks too wild to me. Is that the baffle or the drivers? The curve I am playing right now:
details in the TB coax drivers thread, those are W6 coax. And this is on desktop, I have a table reflection, I have a large monitor and a window between the speakers, and they are touching the wall. Important to compare that I am using 1/12 smoothing, with 1/6 smoothing I don't have enough details to compare tweaks. The bass rolls over much faster than yours because I have sealed boxes. Measured from the listening position, exactly as I hear them.
P.S. I know your desktop build, it is definitely far superior to mine, so my post is more about if you can do more with those closing the gap with your desktop.
I found this wooden stump with an (abandoned) beehive inside, I finished digging and put in a 4" full range speaker. Bluetooth module, ESP Versatile Tone Control with TPA1517 amplifier in bridge mode. I liked the result.
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I hope a collective vizdom helps here, but from my side, in case you need to line up a large speaker with some dampening material inside, look at something like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1BV2KDZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
This is 6sqft Thickened Sound Deadener for Cars. The reason is, specialized sound proofing from audio stores is cheap enough for small speakers, but large speakers will cost a lot, and NoRes from GR research is a highway robbery. Car people don't do A-B testing of engine noise and their solutions are cheap.
Also, I've built one one pair of speakers in my life, so take this with a grain of salt, but I was making the speakers walls 5-layer: 4 layers of the cheapest birch plywood, and 1 layer of thin plastic vibration absorber. I don't claim that those speakers above have any resonance problems, but if they have, that is my solution.
This is 6sqft Thickened Sound Deadener for Cars. The reason is, specialized sound proofing from audio stores is cheap enough for small speakers, but large speakers will cost a lot, and NoRes from GR research is a highway robbery. Car people don't do A-B testing of engine noise and their solutions are cheap.
Also, I've built one one pair of speakers in my life, so take this with a grain of salt, but I was making the speakers walls 5-layer: 4 layers of the cheapest birch plywood, and 1 layer of thin plastic vibration absorber. I don't claim that those speakers above have any resonance problems, but if they have, that is my solution.
I do not know (weird design for sure?) but it displayed the same high end loss in a sweep in their original cabinets as well.