Hello Wiggle,
I have a pair of Alpair 7.3 and i want to build a center channel. Are you happy with the single drive? Do you have any idea for double 7.3 enclosure?
Thanks
Hasan
I'm using the latest gen of Aurel Bryan 8" fullrange with dustcap and place it in existing 75L bass reflex box that i used for AudioNirvana classic 8".
driven by SIT L'Amp and this is the best fullrange that I own by now. it has a balance midrange without any sign of sibilance at high volume like AudioNirvana or even Alpair 10p, good midbass due to high Qts and smooth high. forget about Fostex 206eN which is very iritating
with additional Fostex T90a & AN 0.47uf filter adds extra airyness plus dual subwoofer 40Hz 24dB for deeep bass.
driven by SIT L'Amp and this is the best fullrange that I own by now. it has a balance midrange without any sign of sibilance at high volume like AudioNirvana or even Alpair 10p, good midbass due to high Qts and smooth high. forget about Fostex 206eN which is very iritating
with additional Fostex T90a & AN 0.47uf filter adds extra airyness plus dual subwoofer 40Hz 24dB for deeep bass.
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You have built many pair speakers.
I have built only small boxes.
Have you any favorite box?
Is Big better or not
.
Here's my latest project under construction, 4 folded tapering enclosures in each speaker, one for each full range driver ( they'll be 4 drivers per box )
I was impatient to hear what my quad cubes sounded like, so that explains the twisted wire crossover connections and the poor fitment of the foam gasket. I've tried two drivers with a cap to short one of them, and the sound was much improved over a single driver, so the logical progression is to try 4 - the idea is that the top centre driver is biased towards treble, the lower outside driver has treble removed and the two other drivers are just full range - so there isn't the beaming that would plague a square of four full range drivers.
I haven't listened to them much, but they do seem remarkable at percussion, those four light weight paper cones really do seem to follow the signal very well. I don't think that there's much bellow 100 Hz, a sub or speaker stands with subs inside would be a worth while addition, but they may sound better slammed against a wall. I'm not sure that cheap 4mm ply is a good construction material, it seems to warp a bit. The car damping pads don't do as much as I'd like, I think I should have got thicker sheet. It will be interesting if the acoustic hoods change the sound, but I think it might be a while before I get chance to make them
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New mini baffles for an easier to handle 12 inch full range pair than the large winged baffles plus horns.
These are a mere 24 by 14 1/4 inches, and rely on the baffle to act as a highpass for the 12 inchers. They blend well with a single subwoofer set for a 4th order lowpass of about 100 hertz. Paint job shamelessly lifted from the Cuevos De Las Manos, dating to maybe 7300 BCE.
The pivoting 4" full ranges are rated about 6 or 7 db less efficient than the main drivers, and subtly improve centre fill and a sense of spaciousness.
The 4 inch full rangers are Butterworth filtered just enough for beaming to occur well before edge diffraction, at least if the cone was a flat disc, which it isn't.
These are a mere 24 by 14 1/4 inches, and rely on the baffle to act as a highpass for the 12 inchers. They blend well with a single subwoofer set for a 4th order lowpass of about 100 hertz. Paint job shamelessly lifted from the Cuevos De Las Manos, dating to maybe 7300 BCE.
The pivoting 4" full ranges are rated about 6 or 7 db less efficient than the main drivers, and subtly improve centre fill and a sense of spaciousness.
The 4 inch full rangers are Butterworth filtered just enough for beaming to occur well before edge diffraction, at least if the cone was a flat disc, which it isn't.
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And the right speaker, dried, up, and running. A quick AB from the Multiways i had back in temporary reaffirms a full range brings more to my living room than it loses without a tweeter.
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And here's a better picture of the pair. Some people suggested tweeters on the back, and I've again tried some. It looks like I've settled after more listening to some vintage 16 ohm 2 inch paper Peerless ones, up firing, and swiveled to aim at the ceiling between the pair.
I wanted the baffles as small as I could manage them, to allow more front wall reflections to reach me.
After quite a while, the bass was just too thin for a sub to reach and yet remain audibly hidden.
A 5.5" wing was added to one side of each panel, and fixed that discreetly, while also effectively off centring the driver.
Not quite as imagined, but turned out quite well. It has colorations absolutely, as does any speaker, but they're staying in.
I still own some Mark Audio pairs, and have an idea for the ALPAIR 12PWs.
I wanted the baffles as small as I could manage them, to allow more front wall reflections to reach me.
After quite a while, the bass was just too thin for a sub to reach and yet remain audibly hidden.
A 5.5" wing was added to one side of each panel, and fixed that discreetly, while also effectively off centring the driver.
Not quite as imagined, but turned out quite well. It has colorations absolutely, as does any speaker, but they're staying in.
I still own some Mark Audio pairs, and have an idea for the ALPAIR 12PWs.
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My Fullrange with seas drivers in single stereo configuration.
Lovely. I really like the little turret bit for the cat. Which SEAS? 2 drivers or 4? An ML-TL?
dave
dave
yea, but never designed it for the cat🙂 3 drivers SEAS FA22RCZ and the box bass reflex with dsp
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The FA22 is good. They really benefit from phase plugs. You can probably lose some of the DSP when you do.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf.
A couple notches need to be put into the bottom to clear the parts of the polepiece that are not flat.
Is the vent in your box at the bottom. If so your box cannot be a BR, the shape is wrong. Given that one dimension is significantly larger than the other 2 it is an end-loaded ML-TL (and probably way too small). My SEAS FA22 are in a sealed box (seems the best approach to me 50-70 litre/driver), bt Scott did do a reflex (and an ML-TL as well).
dave
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf.
A couple notches need to be put into the bottom to clear the parts of the polepiece that are not flat.
Is the vent in your box at the bottom. If so your box cannot be a BR, the shape is wrong. Given that one dimension is significantly larger than the other 2 it is an end-loaded ML-TL (and probably way too small). My SEAS FA22 are in a sealed box (seems the best approach to me 50-70 litre/driver), bt Scott did do a reflex (and an ML-TL as well).
dave