Once I get the sub to sound good, and when I'll get to finish the chassis for the other modules, I will try them on my main speakers, and see how they sound when compared to a pair of Krell clone monoblocks.
Joey,
Have you actually measured your "summed" output from the resistors, maybe with an oscilloscope?
Also, the power modules have a fairly low input impedance if I recall correctly (10k). If you sum through 10 K resistors, you have quite a loss there already.
Sounds like you need some verification of your source signal.
Have you actually measured your "summed" output from the resistors, maybe with an oscilloscope?
Also, the power modules have a fairly low input impedance if I recall correctly (10k). If you sum through 10 K resistors, you have quite a loss there already.
Sounds like you need some verification of your source signal.
Hi Jennice,
I don't have access to an oscilloscope at the moment so I can't see my summed output.
What I did, is that right after the summing 10k resistors, I added a non-inverting amplifier using an opamp set for a gain of 3, and then straight to the Ice module. It seems that this has solved the issue.
The extra gain probably helped a little, and now at least I am sure that the output-input impedance matching is much better with the amplifier.
Paul
I don't have access to an oscilloscope at the moment so I can't see my summed output.
What I did, is that right after the summing 10k resistors, I added a non-inverting amplifier using an opamp set for a gain of 3, and then straight to the Ice module. It seems that this has solved the issue.
The extra gain probably helped a little, and now at least I am sure that the output-input impedance matching is much better with the amplifier.
Paul
Has anyone gotten the signal sense turn-on circuit to work on these amp modules? I have the amps working ok with the "Auto turn on" connection (which means, apparently, that it's on when plugged in). But I couldn't get the signal sense arrangement shown in the data booklet to be able to turn on the amp. Maybe I'm misinterpreting how things connect or operate?
My interpretation was that I could connect that signal sense pin to the [+] input pin and leave the Auto-On pin open, and that the amp should then turn itself on when an audio input signal appears. But my modules sure don't work that way.... Can anyone clear this up? The signal sensing power control would be very handy for a setup I have.
My interpretation was that I could connect that signal sense pin to the [+] input pin and leave the Auto-On pin open, and that the amp should then turn itself on when an audio input signal appears. But my modules sure don't work that way.... Can anyone clear this up? The signal sensing power control would be very handy for a setup I have.
Im running unbalanced..this worked for me. solder 2 wires to + of rca input. one wire goes to pin 8 and one wire goes to pin 4
Hmm. That's what I tried, and running single ended too -- it wouldn't come on for either module. Did you do anything with the AutoOFF pin (pin1 of J4), other than leave it open?
Thanks
Thanks
So I got the smaller connectors and pins, but I'm having a heck of a time finding the larger connectors and pins (for power, etc). Can someone point me to the parts at digikey? I'm terminology challenged, so I'm having trouble searching for the right terms.
Or maybe a consolidated BOM for what it'd take to case up a pair of these would be useful?
Or maybe a consolidated BOM for what it'd take to case up a pair of these would be useful?
Ok, sorry, I am slow, I found the parts. Closer reading of the documents going forward. Thanks 🙂
Hi Guys,
I dropped 2 emails to the thread starter YFW but didnt get an answer. Are the modules sold out....I mean the Icepower modules here from the thread?
best regards
Alan
I dropped 2 emails to the thread starter YFW but didnt get an answer. Are the modules sold out....I mean the Icepower modules here from the thread?
best regards
Alan
They are still available in ebay for $250 / pair.. http://cgi.ebay.com/B-O-ICEpower-20...ryZ36331QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Can someone please tell me what connectors are used for the 1000asp boards,and where to get them.I'm in Australia.I looked at the B&O spec sheet and punched in the codes on Digikey but the ones that come up look like the male pin type but I thought the connector should use the female type.I cant check my boards as I havent received them yet.Sorry newbie.
When you look up the part on the DigiKey site, it will pop up a table with part number, price, etc. Click on the underlined "Digikey Part Number" link at the left of the line for the part. That'll take you to a new page for just that part, with the product photo and other info. Look at the bottom of the lower table for a line titled "Mating Products". Find the one that you want (and that is in stock, usually only one choice). For example --
DK 455-1020-ND
DK 455-1020-ND
Hi,
I know the prices on eBay but I dunno want to pay 250 bucks for something which was recently sold for 140 bucks.
Fortunately...I was contacted by some others sellers with offers for new ICepower and UcD Modules for good prices. Thanks guys.
bye
Alan
I know the prices on eBay but I dunno want to pay 250 bucks for something which was recently sold for 140 bucks.
Fortunately...I was contacted by some others sellers with offers for new ICepower and UcD Modules for good prices. Thanks guys.
bye
Alan
It's supply and demand, and demand is trumping supply..
I don't blame him for raising his price.
I am glad I had the forsight to know a good deal - as I bought four of them!
I don't blame him for raising his price.
I am glad I had the forsight to know a good deal - as I bought four of them!
Hello, can you provide an URL to this booklet please? Also I saw you too bought THAT1200's from ebay , Im waiting for mine yet, and wanted to ask, that do you have an idea how to make a front end circuit involving 10k log alps stepped pot +"some opamp" and that1200 ?
Grounding of chassis
Regarding the earlier discussion regarding chassis grounding, I found out something:
There are 5 mounting holes on each board. 4 in the corners and on a little offset in the center.
All are isolated except from the center hole. It is electrical connected to circuit through jumper wire marked J200.
If center hole is used with normal screws, chassis will be connected to circuit...
So, I will recomend to keep signal ground seperate from chassis...and connect earth from mains to chassis...
Regarding the earlier discussion regarding chassis grounding, I found out something:
There are 5 mounting holes on each board. 4 in the corners and on a little offset in the center.
All are isolated except from the center hole. It is electrical connected to circuit through jumper wire marked J200.
If center hole is used with normal screws, chassis will be connected to circuit...
So, I will recomend to keep signal ground seperate from chassis...and connect earth from mains to chassis...
Pratical implementation...
I have startet the practical work and will do as follows:
Mains from socket on rear panel to first module (P1)and then from there to next module (P1). Ground from mains socket directly to chassis.
LEDs output (J5) to 2 colour (red-greeen) LED on front panel, one LED for each module.
Signal input from rear panel RCAs to J3. Pin 6-7 shorted and Pin 4-8 shorted, enabling auto turn on.
Output from banana sockets on rear to J2. Pin 1 to red.
Switch on front panel to J4 (Auto turn selector). When on, Pin 1-2 is shorted. One switch, but one contact pole for each module.
Functionality:
Auto-turn on switch in off:
Amplifier is always on (idle) and ready, LED indication is Green.
Auto-turn on switch in on:
Amplifier is in stand-by and LED is RED. When signal is present amplifier turns itself on and LED indicatons switched to Green. After 13 minutes without signal, amplifier turns itself to stand-by again.
Protection:
If a fault appears and protection is turned on, Red LED turns on and Green will remain turnes on = amber light
Just one question:
Input wiring from RCA to modules will be shielded. What will be the optimal route? Crossing output wires or crossing SMPS supply?
I have startet the practical work and will do as follows:
Mains from socket on rear panel to first module (P1)and then from there to next module (P1). Ground from mains socket directly to chassis.
LEDs output (J5) to 2 colour (red-greeen) LED on front panel, one LED for each module.
Signal input from rear panel RCAs to J3. Pin 6-7 shorted and Pin 4-8 shorted, enabling auto turn on.
Output from banana sockets on rear to J2. Pin 1 to red.
Switch on front panel to J4 (Auto turn selector). When on, Pin 1-2 is shorted. One switch, but one contact pole for each module.
Functionality:
Auto-turn on switch in off:
Amplifier is always on (idle) and ready, LED indication is Green.
Auto-turn on switch in on:
Amplifier is in stand-by and LED is RED. When signal is present amplifier turns itself on and LED indicatons switched to Green. After 13 minutes without signal, amplifier turns itself to stand-by again.
Protection:
If a fault appears and protection is turned on, Red LED turns on and Green will remain turnes on = amber light
Just one question:
Input wiring from RCA to modules will be shielded. What will be the optimal route? Crossing output wires or crossing SMPS supply?
Tritosine --
Actually, I'm using the THAT 1200 for something else. I use a solid state preamp (low output Z) so I don't need another stage ahead of the ICEpower (runs very quiet, too. Very nice amp).
But I'd think you'd just use the THAT to be the high impedance differential input adaptor, drive your pot with its output, and then use the other opamp (such as LM4562) as a buffer to drop the impedance ffrom the pot's output so it can drive the ICEpower
Genearl info on using the THAT chip: http://www.thatcorp.com/1200-series_High_CMRR_Balanced_Line_Receiver_ICs.html
Booklet (i.e., data sheet) on the ASC200:
http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/en/downloads/
Actually, I'm using the THAT 1200 for something else. I use a solid state preamp (low output Z) so I don't need another stage ahead of the ICEpower (runs very quiet, too. Very nice amp).
But I'd think you'd just use the THAT to be the high impedance differential input adaptor, drive your pot with its output, and then use the other opamp (such as LM4562) as a buffer to drop the impedance ffrom the pot's output so it can drive the ICEpower
Genearl info on using the THAT chip: http://www.thatcorp.com/1200-series_High_CMRR_Balanced_Line_Receiver_ICs.html
Booklet (i.e., data sheet) on the ASC200:
http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/en/downloads/
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