Hello Dave, thank you for your answer, I just donated 20 usd for the joan plans and for the xl's as I have to admit I first purchased a flat pack and than took mesurements to reproduce it and make a second pair for my dad...no I feel better.
When you say that joan has less gain, what should I expect from this statement, will a 2.3W decware amp do the job as this is what I plan to use on it...
I guess the best speaker I could use for them is the 12P, what should I expect compare to my XL's with 10.2 maop's, and would silver 8s or cube 8s do any better?
can you tell me how to contact you or Scott trough email's to further speek about 10" custom designs as you proposed?
Thank you for your time anyway,
Yves
When you say that joan has less gain, what should I expect from this statement, will a 2.3W decware amp do the job as this is what I plan to use on it...
I guess the best speaker I could use for them is the 12P, what should I expect compare to my XL's with 10.2 maop's, and would silver 8s or cube 8s do any better?
can you tell me how to contact you or Scott trough email's to further speek about 10" custom designs as you proposed?
Thank you for your time anyway,
Yves
payement from yves@sky-hero which is my paypal account but not my used email anymore...please use yves.coppye@sky-hero.com for sending the plans... thank's, Yves
no I don't have your email, 8M289740TY4480711 that was the transaction number, I can do a print screen and send it to you
Hello Scott , Dave or anyone who can help me..., I have some questions regarding using 2 speakers in a single enclosure, I read that many prefer using smaller sized speakers like the 10p vs the 12p or even worse 8 or 10", and I must say that I feel a bit the same, as my moaps 10.2 are playing the stars out of the sky, with details, dynamics, and an amzing live real feelings that I never heard before on any of my systems...my problem is that my room is a bit big for a single 10p and I don't like subwoofers at all, my idea would be to use 2 speakers instead of 1. I see multiple options, I could build the dubble vertical fhxls, but I don't want to go vertical ( WAF) I would prefer folding the upper side next to the lower one so basically build a dubble fhxl in width... first question, do I have to split the 2 boxes with a center pannel, doeas it need to be dubbled, or can I have them in a single wider box with just the 2 side walls mounted, second question, can I use 2 moaps 10 in a single Joan enclosure and if so, should I have to align the 2 speakers horizontaly to keep the center alignement or can I mount them vertically or cross against that center line? and finally what is the ideal distance between the 2 speakers, for example, if I go for the folded twin fhxls, should I keep the speakers centered in each cabinet or should I concider sliding them aside to create a better alignement...Thank's, Yves
Given what you are dsuggesting, just build 2-pair, set them next to each other, and roll one driver off. The BS will fall by an octave so you will likely need to adjust the speaker placement, and perhaaps revist the damping.
As long as the rolled off driver is XOed below the quarter-wave spacing, the issue Zia refers to goes way.
dave
As long as the rolled off driver is XOed below the quarter-wave spacing, the issue Zia refers to goes way.
dave
ok, I will try, I can go picking up a set of fhxls from my dad and try, so if I understand clearly, I should place them side by side but not aligned, slide one back or front from the other or do I have to align them but facing inward each others? sorry for the noob questions but it's all new to me...
No, they should line up at close as possible. If it works you could consider pushing the 2 boxes together and the walls that are together could be removed, and the side to side panels “doubled”. You would loose 2 panel thicknesses in width.
2 pair are much more versatile thou.
I would wire them in series with a substantially sized (poly) cap. Ballpark <60 µF. Needs to be poly (in the end). https://solen.ca/products/capacitor...6200-62uf-250v-metallized-polypropylene-film/
dave
2 pair are much more versatile thou.
I would wire them in series with a substantially sized (poly) cap. Ballpark <60 µF. Needs to be poly (in the end). https://solen.ca/products/capacitor...6200-62uf-250v-metallized-polypropylene-film/
dave
2pr can work; Ed used to have a version of his horns like that, but in general I'd agree with Dave: you'd need to LP one of the pairs.
Left-field: once upon a time, when quadraphonics stalked the earth like four giant stalking things, those who were cash-strapped liked to play with some unusual setups, passively matrixing surround & 'other things' from a regular stereo signal. The Hafler circuit, either with one or two rear channels was one. 'Depth stereo' was another (don't ask). And 'width stereo' was still another. The latter started out with just 2 pr of speakers, in mirrored stereo: a front stereo pair & a rear stereo pair. Doesn't work too well, as you'd expect. But if you move the 2nd pr of speakers forward, so they're to either side of the mains, and can reduce the gain to them, you can get quite interesting results. Easiest way I found was to use a cheap stereo integrated powering the extras. If you can also LP them, it can get even more interesting. Heavyweight support too: one of Linkwitz's final pieces of work was his Watsons: basically the same principle, albeit rather closer: https://www.linkwitzlab.com/Watson/watson.htm
Left-field: once upon a time, when quadraphonics stalked the earth like four giant stalking things, those who were cash-strapped liked to play with some unusual setups, passively matrixing surround & 'other things' from a regular stereo signal. The Hafler circuit, either with one or two rear channels was one. 'Depth stereo' was another (don't ask). And 'width stereo' was still another. The latter started out with just 2 pr of speakers, in mirrored stereo: a front stereo pair & a rear stereo pair. Doesn't work too well, as you'd expect. But if you move the 2nd pr of speakers forward, so they're to either side of the mains, and can reduce the gain to them, you can get quite interesting results. Easiest way I found was to use a cheap stereo integrated powering the extras. If you can also LP them, it can get even more interesting. Heavyweight support too: one of Linkwitz's final pieces of work was his Watsons: basically the same principle, albeit rather closer: https://www.linkwitzlab.com/Watson/watson.htm
Ideally one tries to get the XO at or below a quarter-wavelength. At this point the sources are close enuff at a low enuff frequencies, that they are coincident, behaving as if they are in the same place.But it can be a bit higher (say a third).
One also has ro balance that with the transition from 2π to 4π. BS(-3)=f(width), about 350 Hz in the example above. With the highly beveled edges the transition will be fairly smooth. I usually like to target root(2)/2 times BS(-3) for that. so i’d just do a 250 Hz XO and sacrifice the driver space a small bit.
The further your listening distance the less of an issue.
You might alslo need to consider how loud the speaker will play… louder if you push it up, not as much if you push down.
Caveat is of course — the room and placement constraints.
dave
One also has ro balance that with the transition from 2π to 4π. BS(-3)=f(width), about 350 Hz in the example above. With the highly beveled edges the transition will be fairly smooth. I usually like to target root(2)/2 times BS(-3) for that. so i’d just do a 250 Hz XO and sacrifice the driver space a small bit.
The further your listening distance the less of an issue.
You might alslo need to consider how loud the speaker will play… louder if you push it up, not as much if you push down.
Caveat is of course — the room and placement constraints.
dave