The cleats will eat up volume and screws will weaken the structure.
As long as the back of the baffle cut-out is well chamfered, moving the magnet a bit further from the partition is not a bad thing.
dave
That’s how we handled all our FH3 kits and local builds. In the case of the All the FH enclosures, I used dadoes on both sides for the 3 external panels, and on one side only for the internal 2 as I found it made for quick assembly, and settled on a depth of 5mm. I was fortunate to have access to a commercial CNC router at the time, so the 4 outer panels took less than probably 5 minutes to machine, and of course there are other methods from which to choose.
I'd be tempted to cut all the baffle, top, bottom and internal pieces the same width -- set once after measuring to death -- and then cut 'em all to a consistent width then rabbet the edges of the sides to take the enclosure pieces and dado out the sides for internals. Not sure how deep the rabbet/dados should be. Half the thickness of the material??
I think that's how they've done the flat packs.
For the baffle I'd add a full width wood fascia the thickness of the driver mounting plate that could facilitate a roundover edge treatment.
Because of the stuffing you need to do, some consideration of gluing order is necessary.
I think that's how they've done the flat packs.
For the baffle I'd add a full width wood fascia the thickness of the driver mounting plate that could facilitate a roundover edge treatment.
Because of the stuffing you need to do, some consideration of gluing order is necessary.
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It’s been several years since I finished my FHXL speakers and just wanted to comment again on how great I think they are! Most recently, I have been running them with my 300B mono amps and I just love this combo! I’m just amazed at how much bass these little drivers produce. Thanks again to all who had a hand in their design and support!
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Leif: I’m running Alpair 10.3 drivers in them. Construction images are here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/310093-fhxl-build.html
Jdg123: yep, the FHXL is definitely on my short list for the desert island thing😉. They sing well with whatever amp is in front of them!
Jdg123: yep, the FHXL is definitely on my short list for the desert island thing😉. They sing well with whatever amp is in front of them!
Hi Good Folk,
I opened a new topic, when I should’ve added to this one…
So, I have the chance to get a pair of Fostex FE166eS-r drivers and was wondering how these would go in Frugal XLs? I’ve built the XL design for Diatone P610s and the set-up was wonderful. Stupid me moved them on. Anyway, are the Fostex worth pursuing and would the XL work well. Keen to hear for you guys. Many thanks, Chris
I opened a new topic, when I should’ve added to this one…
So, I have the chance to get a pair of Fostex FE166eS-r drivers and was wondering how these would go in Frugal XLs? I’ve built the XL design for Diatone P610s and the set-up was wonderful. Stupid me moved them on. Anyway, are the Fostex worth pursuing and would the XL work well. Keen to hear for you guys. Many thanks, Chris
As Dave says, as-is, FHXL is on the edge with a mass-corner of about 476Hz. However, they were designed for use with a high output impedance amplifier -typical SET or similar, with an output Z lurking in the 2.5ohm > category. So assuming a sympathetic boundary load, which it sounds like you have since you've had FHXL before, with a suitable amplifier of that kind, or, say, a 3.9ohm power resistor in series with the driver (or better -calculate your max-power handling requirement, multiply that value by 1.41 for added security, then series-parallel a bunch of high-precision metal films to achieve the desired ohm & wattage values) then it should be OK. A166 is technically the better 'natural fit' for a compact horn however.
Thanks @Scottmoose !
The optimal Zout of the amp is one of the information I was still missing, as I’m designing the amps for the FHXL and Silbury as well and I was thinking to perform some tests with different amps.
So even if alot says they sound very well with class D amps, they have been designed with the classical SET and their 2-4 dampening factor in mind for lows and highs.
The optimal Zout of the amp is one of the information I was still missing, as I’m designing the amps for the FHXL and Silbury as well and I was thinking to perform some tests with different amps.
So even if alot says they sound very well with class D amps, they have been designed with the classical SET and their 2-4 dampening factor in mind for lows and highs.
Fostex 166EsR
Woden Design Victor works well
- Hypex expansion double-mouth horn
- 60in x 9.5in x 17.5in (1524x241x445mm) HxWxD
Also may possibly may work in the Joan Horn 🤭
...
https://sites.google.com/view/low-end-diy-loudspeaker/diy-tqwtml-voigt-pipe-with-damp-duct
DDVP-17 for 6.5"-7" Full-Range Driver
@nandappe to the courtesy phone please
An ML-Voigt (as a general load scheme) wouldn't be my choice for the ES-R. It was designed as a horn driver with a heavily over-damped response, & even with help from the intended amplifier type, it needs a fairly efficient load as that underhung motor has relatively little linear excursion -plenty more mechanical, but it stops giving of its best. The downside to mass-loading is that you sacrifice efficiency for extension and / or linearity and the more you force the loading, the more you're giving up. I'm the last to criticise mass loading (obviously ) as it can be / is extremely useful, but it would be a bit of a shame to go down that route with the ES-R. IIRC Terry Cain did make a prototype Abby with it, when the drivers were new; I think most of the mass-loading went by the board there there though, and he ended up shifting them into one of his horns. The data sheet does come with one of Fostex's own horn designs, which was, as I recall, one of their better examples, so that might be an option as, while it wasn't small, it wasn't enormous either.
) as it can be / is extremely useful, but it would be a bit of a shame to go down that route with the ES-R. IIRC Terry Cain did make a prototype Abby with it, when the drivers were new; I think most of the mass-loading went by the board there there though, and he ended up shifting them into one of his horns. The data sheet does come with one of Fostex's own horn designs, which was, as I recall, one of their better examples, so that might be an option as, while it wasn't small, it wasn't enormous either.
This box would be a good choice for 166ES-R.
Low frequency is adjusted by variable ducting.
https://sites.google.com/view/low-e...-single-driver/-diy-adjustable-duct-type-ddbh
Low frequency is adjusted by variable ducting.
https://sites.google.com/view/low-e...-single-driver/-diy-adjustable-duct-type-ddbh