Chrisb ... familiar with process. Built speakers (including the dreaded K-horn), 38 of the 50 years was building commercially in my own shop.
Now, in apartment no access to ac, so all done with battery power or by hand. Not going to spend $150+ for jig saw. I make due and reside on dimensional lumber (mostly pine as is easily cut) and adapt accordingly.
Zene
Now, in apartment no access to ac, so all done with battery power or by hand. Not going to spend $150+ for jig saw. I make due and reside on dimensional lumber (mostly pine as is easily cut) and adapt accordingly.
Zene
The Ryobi cordless jig saw is on sale at Home Depot for $59. Prices are even cheaper on eBay.
It could well be, although the curve would probably need reprofiling to suit. Without knowing the dimensions though, we're flying blind, so unless there's a particular tuning / response object in mind behind the changes I'd generally stick with what's known to work -especially given the lack of tools, AC access etc. (although since I'm the world's worst woodworker... 😉 )
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Poul... thx, my only source is Lowe's and it was $100+.
I do have a Black & Decker cordless and the blade walks so bad I threw it on the concrete floor. Do you think a bit childish? Reluctant to buy any cheap one. $50 or $60 spent for 4 cuts is not in my pocket book plan.
I think averaging the curve with several straight cuts will do fine as I will be cutting off at 100hz, pretty much eliminating the mouth.
Be curious if someone could tell my what the result is of doing that?
I do have a Black & Decker cordless and the blade walks so bad I threw it on the concrete floor. Do you think a bit childish? Reluctant to buy any cheap one. $50 or $60 spent for 4 cuts is not in my pocket book plan.
I think averaging the curve with several straight cuts will do fine as I will be cutting off at 100hz, pretty much eliminating the mouth.
Be curious if someone could tell my what the result is of doing that?
If you mean cutting at 100Hz, it makes using this horn a bit excessive since it's designed for bass loading & while you get broad[ish] band gain up to around 250Hz, you could likely get equally good results from something simpler, e.g. a high efficiency vented. If you mean averaging the curve -depends on the details (dimensions) really, so can't give an accurate answer.
Then seems like ~aperiodic or assisted sealed (under damped + hi-pass filter) would be best overall.
Hmm, thinking we're having a 'failure to communicate' 😉 in that the curve wouldn't/shouldn't? change enough to matter due to not changing its fundamentally 🙂 low corner. Guess I need to actually work it out as time permits.
Sorry, my fault. The axial length wouldn't be changing significantly but the final stage of the expansion would be, depending on how much the side panels are then angled out, and the curve partly fits & partly shapes the expanding pressure wave, so some adjustment may be needed given the profile shift. It might well be OK as the magnitide probably wouldn't be be vast -but without knowing the details, I'm partly going into guesswork.
Either way though, seems an over-complicated way of getting a 100Hz load. Maybe one of Horst's short standmount horns as an alternative to the sealed, or a Pi align vented with a reasonable active high-pass? I'm not a big fan of back-loaded midrange horns as-is, but might work out here if the acoustic low pass is well-controlled.
Either way though, seems an over-complicated way of getting a 100Hz load. Maybe one of Horst's short standmount horns as an alternative to the sealed, or a Pi align vented with a reasonable active high-pass? I'm not a big fan of back-loaded midrange horns as-is, but might work out here if the acoustic low pass is well-controlled.
Scott... /GM, angled was dumb idea, forgot about the bottom plate. I still don't think modifying the curve a few mm is going to make any audible difference.
My initial goal was to have a box with little/no internal resonance problems like sealed and
ported.
I may cross high enough to eliminate the port altogether.
This is not a simple BLH, it's a 5 way.
Zene
.
My initial goal was to have a box with little/no internal resonance problems like sealed and
ported.
I may cross high enough to eliminate the port altogether.
This is not a simple BLH, it's a 5 way.
Zene
.
Properly designed sealed and vented enclosures should not have resonance problems -if they do, it's usually due to inadequte construction, and / or a poor alignment or dimensioning, so don't be afraid of using a good example if you don't need extension. The other option there would be an aperiodic TL.
Fair enough. In fora such as these it can certainly be problematic making assumptions as to the experience and skill set of posting members.
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Of the numerous quarter/half wave “lines” or small near aperiodic vented enclosures to which Dave alludes, my favorites were the Pensil family and “Mar-Ken” high aspect ratio slot loaded designs. I also quickly became a big fan of the Mark Audio family of wide-band drivers.
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Dave ... it looks like I can handle building the Mar-Ken P7Rs.
Can I get plans?
Some info missing on sketches.
Zene
Can I get plans?
Some info missing on sketches.
Zene
It is far from complete, but they are starting to come. If i haven’t done teh shape you need i will get it done.
dave
dave
I am more than curious... you have no AC access for tools to make the speakers but live in an apartment (isn't that the definition of a multi-storey building ?) and how are your hifi components and amplification powered if not by AC ?
But you would not feel so all alone, ‘cause everybody must get.
Some of us still on a regular basis.
Some of us still on a regular basis.
