I really like the 7MS but don't see them for sale on Madisound anymore? With them my FH3's have never sounded better. I used the Fostex FE126En for years and liked it's higher sensitivity but they weren't as smooth and easy to listen to as the MA. My room is not treated and has lots of windows but the FH3's in near field take much of the room issues out of the equation.
Last edited by a moderator:
All the links to plans seams to be broken, where can I find the latest plans for the MK3?
I have a pile of Oak-planks in the garage, at least wide and tall enough for the baffle, maybe not for sides. Would there be any issue with making the baffle a little wider than recommended? I like the estistics with a baffle a few cm wider than the box. I.e. box inner dimensions will be unchanged, it is just the baffle which are wider on the outer dimension.
I think there will be no problem if you keep inner dimensions. Maybe Dave or Scott can confirm.
Working with real wood can be more difficult than plywood. You must check all joints are perfectly sealed for the horn working properly. Good luck with your project!
Why are there so few SPL-measures of the Frugel=Horns?
I would like to se comparisons between FE126 and Alpair 7.3 drivers, what F3 frequency can I expect from these drivers?
And maybe compare the Frugel mk3 vs XL?
I would like to se comparisons between FE126 and Alpair 7.3 drivers, what F3 frequency can I expect from these drivers?
And maybe compare the Frugel mk3 vs XL?
Last edited by a moderator:
Above the horn cutoff, ie 250-300 Hz, the driver’s FR is pretyt much what it is in any other box, below that frequency stuffing, driver, room, room placement becme dominant and a measure means little to anyone not in that room with that loudspeaker.
FE126 struggles with bass (minimum damping, corner placement really needed), and the driver needs some work to get rid of some of the rough edges. The A7 is pretty good out of the box and was the original target for the FH3.
With A7 in FH3 one gets something like 40-50 F10 typically, not quite an octave more with the bigger XL.
dave
FE126 struggles with bass (minimum damping, corner placement really needed), and the driver needs some work to get rid of some of the rough edges. The A7 is pretty good out of the box and was the original target for the FH3.
With A7 in FH3 one gets something like 40-50 F10 typically, not quite an octave more with the bigger XL.
dave
My room will not allow corner placement, guess it disqualifies the Fe126.
Will an SE-amp with EL34 in triode manage the A7 driver? I think there are about 6W avalible. One option are to rewire to UL, then do I have 10W+.
Will an SE-amp with EL34 in triode manage the A7 driver? I think there are about 6W avalible. One option are to rewire to UL, then do I have 10W+.
I thought you were involved. 😉
Have you made any fibonacci speaker design?
Have you made any fibonacci speaker design?
Last edited by a moderator:
I have too much glass in my corners and consequently discovered the FH Mk3 sound amazing in near field paired with a small sub.
Scott and i have spent some tie trying to make Fibonacci based horns… nothing has come out.
I only have a small inkling about what is inside Sally’s horns.
dave
These speakers look fantastic, thinking of making the lite version. The plans are very detailed but on the lite there is only the construction with 12mm panel, where 12, 15 and 18mm are on the original plans. Sorry complete idiot here but can the lite be made from thicker. Also, it recommends ply or MDF but no mention of solid wood, is there a reason for this. 🤔
If you need plans in different material thichnesses just ask, eventually they will be done and added to the planset.
dave
dave
Unless you're a skilled cabinet maker, this could be a daunting task. 😉
Of course solid wood is an option if you're up to it.
jeff