Indeed, in the well over decade since first prototypes, the FH family has proven to be a very accommodating design topology. It was a great pleasure to have participated in that adventure.
FWIW, my personal favorite drivers were in respective order: FHL - FF85WK; FH3 - Alpair 7.3; FHXL - Alpair 10.3/10P. Having been retired from active DIYing for a few years now, I’ve missed playing with the more recent MA drivers, but ennui/fatigue has overtaken FOMO, and on reflection, I think I’m happier to be out of the game.
FWIW, my personal favorite drivers were in respective order: FHL - FF85WK; FH3 - Alpair 7.3; FHXL - Alpair 10.3/10P. Having been retired from active DIYing for a few years now, I’ve missed playing with the more recent MA drivers, but ennui/fatigue has overtaken FOMO, and on reflection, I think I’m happier to be out of the game.
Last edited:
With that answer do I feel a obligation to order a pair of each and test them all...
First of all do I need to source Baltic Birch, has been proven to be difficult today. Then can I pick one of the drivers above 🙂
Would almost need a little support from a tweeter. I will try to compare the datasheets of the -60 and -68
Don't say things like that... Over a decade now. Hard to believe it's gone that quickly.
Was somebody interested in solid wood construction of a Frugal horn?
Here is a few pictures of the ones I built.
As Dave and others have said you need a bit of experience in working with wood before you tackle a project like this. But boy is it ever worth it if it works out for you.
Frugal horn XL with MA 10p Enabled by Dave
Made from 3/4 inch Big Leaf Maple planks with 1/4 inch strips of Pacific Yew inserts. All solid wood inside and out.
Sound is quite amazing with a pair of 8inch sown firing helper subs.
Enjoy
Here is a few pictures of the ones I built.
As Dave and others have said you need a bit of experience in working with wood before you tackle a project like this. But boy is it ever worth it if it works out for you.
Frugal horn XL with MA 10p Enabled by Dave
Made from 3/4 inch Big Leaf Maple planks with 1/4 inch strips of Pacific Yew inserts. All solid wood inside and out.
Sound is quite amazing with a pair of 8inch sown firing helper subs.
Enjoy
Attachments
I'm considering a plywood cabinet and solid Oak baffle. I do have material for a full solid FH3, however does it call for a tremendous work with the planer to get the planks usable, they are over 1" thick, some almost 1.5".
It looks like the -68X/AD are about 5db higher above 3-4kHz. So there are some improvement compared to -60X. However are datasheets only datasheets and reality are reality. I think I go for the -68X/AD when it's time.
Scott’s ar emore interesting with the Yew inserts, but Berie did a set of Mahogany FHXL alos with A10PeN.
And matching stand.
dave
And matching stand.
dave
Last edited:
I have started my FH mk3 build and this week will I add the stuffing before I Close the cabinet.
I'm struggling a little by understanding the stuffing-page in the plans.
What I have in my hands are
10mm felt-mat.
Acousta-stuff, synthetic fibres
Drivers are TG W4-2142.
The felt are no problem, I will add according to the blue on the drawing.
But what about the Acousta-stuff.
How much do I ad to the orange zone? What can I expect to add to the red-cloudish zone?
The orange will be fixed after closing the cabinet, the red are hopfully adjustable....
I'm struggling a little by understanding the stuffing-page in the plans.
What I have in my hands are
10mm felt-mat.
Acousta-stuff, synthetic fibres
Drivers are TG W4-2142.
The felt are no problem, I will add according to the blue on the drawing.
But what about the Acousta-stuff.
How much do I ad to the orange zone? What can I expect to add to the red-cloudish zone?
The orange will be fixed after closing the cabinet, the red are hopfully adjustable....
Attachments
30 g in the point. The tricky part is getting the density right. You want it to be denser at the point. The guidline is. tease very well, gathe rinto an equal amount the length of the file area. Then try to stuff it in such that you ar eputting the same amount thruout the pink ignoring that it is triangular. That makes it denser at the point and graduaky decreasing density to the top.
The bit in the front is where you adjust for driver, room room placement, amplifier output impedance, and taste.
dave
The bit in the front is where you adjust for driver, room room placement, amplifier output impedance, and taste.
dave
PerCarlin,
Just taking a casual glance at your photos. I may building these cabinets sometime in the spring. Even though they look relatively simple to build, is there anything so far that might have given you pause about the process? Also, you got to tell me which hand plane it is shown in the background of one of the photos. Been doing it that way myself for a number of years.
Just taking a casual glance at your photos. I may building these cabinets sometime in the spring. Even though they look relatively simple to build, is there anything so far that might have given you pause about the process? Also, you got to tell me which hand plane it is shown in the background of one of the photos. Been doing it that way myself for a number of years.
Hand plane: one of many in my workshop, don't know any brand or number. I take the one that I need for the moment. I can take a photo of it tomorrow.
Show stoppers: don't know yet.
I had the sides CNC-milled, would been a disaster with my jigsaw.
Measure twice, cut once are always a good recommendation.
All other panels are 140mm wide. I guess that cutting these with consistant width are crucial, if one side are 138 and the other are 143 will it be tough to close the cabinets without big airgaps.
Show stoppers: don't know yet.
I had the sides CNC-milled, would been a disaster with my jigsaw.
Measure twice, cut once are always a good recommendation.
All other panels are 140mm wide. I guess that cutting these with consistant width are crucial, if one side are 138 and the other are 143 will it be tough to close the cabinets without big airgaps.
I have one question I haven't been able to answer by reading the forum:
how is the different radiuses of the rear side of different cabs simulating the horn?
In other words, how to chose a 1 or 3 or 5 m radius?
how is the different radiuses of the rear side of different cabs simulating the horn?
In other words, how to chose a 1 or 3 or 5 m radius?
Original sims for it were in Ron Clarke’s proprietary software, now Scott uses his own custom stuff.
dave
dave