The 2nd sB with the sides is a crude attempt of getting a bit more like a nautilus-style shape. We pretty much abandoned this and went to the simplier version. Making the sB full length is more acceptabe cosmetically to some.
All our FH-Lite builds and flat-paks came with the simplier sB.
There is a page (or more) or more exotic sB in the FH1 document.
dave
All our FH-Lite builds and flat-paks came with the simplier sB.
There is a page (or more) or more exotic sB in the FH1 document.
dave
Here are the supraBaffle bits out of the Frugel-Horn the Original document.
https://frugal-horn.com/downloads/FH-original-sBaffles-180120.pdf
dave
https://frugal-horn.com/downloads/FH-original-sBaffles-180120.pdf
dave
Hello there,
I have a question about damping, the project has gone well 🙂, and I'm going to put the damping fluff in. I have a few questions that I could find her in this thread, mostly due to lack of English knowledge:-(
I am really happy with what I have created so far in 15 mm. BB , I just want so much to have everything perfect.
I understand the damping under the driver in the front chamber, its the damping in the rear v chamber I can not understand
Question 1: the 30 g of damping fluff t in the v chamber, should it be distributed so that there is just as much damping per centimeter down through the chamber, and the damping material thus gets pack hard the farther you get to the bottom of the chamber?
on page 17 in the pdf characters there is a green and an orange area in the chamber, the text say blue + orange, a total of 60 grams ? = 30g in the green part and 30 in the orange, I have to admit I am a little confused 🙂
Question 2: I used some felt from an old car that is approx. 12 mm. thick, it weighs about 1000 g. per m3, is it too little? Do I need to add one more layer? or is it good enough.
sorry for my english
Many greetings from Denmark🙂
I have a question about damping, the project has gone well 🙂, and I'm going to put the damping fluff in. I have a few questions that I could find her in this thread, mostly due to lack of English knowledge:-(
I am really happy with what I have created so far in 15 mm. BB , I just want so much to have everything perfect.
I understand the damping under the driver in the front chamber, its the damping in the rear v chamber I can not understand
Question 1: the 30 g of damping fluff t in the v chamber, should it be distributed so that there is just as much damping per centimeter down through the chamber, and the damping material thus gets pack hard the farther you get to the bottom of the chamber?
on page 17 in the pdf characters there is a green and an orange area in the chamber, the text say blue + orange, a total of 60 grams ? = 30g in the green part and 30 in the orange, I have to admit I am a little confused 🙂
Question 2: I used some felt from an old car that is approx. 12 mm. thick, it weighs about 1000 g. per m3, is it too little? Do I need to add one more layer? or is it good enough.
sorry for my english
Many greetings from Denmark🙂
The damping in the point wants to get denser as you approach the point.
That felt should be fine.
dave
That felt should be fine.
dave
Here is a piece of damping that weighs 30 grams.
Do I understand you correctly if I extend it in the top of the chamber and squeeze it more and more as I reach the bottom of the v chamber or is it opposite
]sorry if the question is a bit stupid, I'm just a little shaky on this part
Do I understand you correctly if I extend it in the top of the chamber and squeeze it more and more as I reach the bottom of the v chamber or is it opposite
]sorry if the question is a bit stupid, I'm just a little shaky on this part
Attachments
Yes, but that is batting, you need to thoroughly tease it out 1st. Apparent volume will probably at least triple.
40g of acoustastuff before & after teasing.
dave
40g of acoustastuff before & after teasing.
dave
thank you! for your response, I am very much looking forward to hearing them in a few days, my MarkAudio A7 gen3 has about 300 hours in test cabinets so I expect a great experience
I am grateful for your kindness is here on this forum.
I am grateful for your kindness is here on this forum.
Hi,
i was wondering what is the difference between Electric beach blackwoods approach and standard design of FH3 (question is about box, not tweeter)
i was wondering what is the difference between Electric beach blackwoods approach and standard design of FH3 (question is about box, not tweeter)
The curved back of the FHs is a Ron Clarke innovation what makes a high aspect ratio mouth look more like a more optimum sqaure or circular mouth, so i woul dsuspect that the full FH mouth will give smoother bass and being a bit larger go a bit lower.
It is, IMO, much prettier too. One of the assets of FHs are that they are not rectangular boxes.
They started out building proper FHs, and the castle-style tweeter could be added to any FR. They still look to be using an MA FR.
dave
It is, IMO, much prettier too. One of the assets of FHs are that they are not rectangular boxes.
They started out building proper FHs, and the castle-style tweeter could be added to any FR. They still look to be using an MA FR.
dave
Thx Dave
Yes, it looks that CHP-70 is used and i think its still FH3 design but baffle is not sloped and mouth are like that probably to reduce footprint
Tomislav
Yes, it looks that CHP-70 is used and i think its still FH3 design but baffle is not sloped and mouth are like that probably to reduce footprint
Tomislav
An “innovation” 1st started by an Irish cottage industry (that may have disappeared).
I told them the same thing at the time, when the fellow 1st contacted me.
CHP70.2 would be my guess too. With the shelved down top, they really need that ambient tweeter. I did sort of simialr in one of our mu=icroTower build with CHP70.2, but dome tweeters on the otherwise unoccupied sides like the original microTower II from EPI. I really need to improve the XO from the 1st guess cap on them now.
dave
I told them the same thing at the time, when the fellow 1st contacted me.
CHP70.2 would be my guess too. With the shelved down top, they really need that ambient tweeter. I did sort of simialr in one of our mu=icroTower build with CHP70.2, but dome tweeters on the otherwise unoccupied sides like the original microTower II from EPI. I really need to improve the XO from the 1st guess cap on them now.
dave
Yes, ambient tweeter cut off at around 7khz would be my idea also. And AMT is also something i would choose, was listening them for years in AMT Syrinx and its hard to beat. Maybe Dayton mini 8
Hi,
I am a bit confused as to how much stuffing has to be in the horn with FE126EN drivers.
The plans says 30 grams up to the point, but both green and orange colors are represented. Is it 30 grams for each section or 30 grams in total?
I have tried 30 grams in total, but highs seems a bit muffled, is this a consequence of incorrect stuffing?
I am a bit confused as to how much stuffing has to be in the horn with FE126EN drivers.
The plans says 30 grams up to the point, but both green and orange colors are represented. Is it 30 grams for each section or 30 grams in total?
I have tried 30 grams in total, but highs seems a bit muffled, is this a consequence of incorrect stuffing?
No FHXL build for me, yet, but got the plans. I"m guilty of doing more reading (doesn't cost anything) than building, and of course that led me to look at other enclosures, such as the Onken, for a future project.
From that reading/research, I know that Dave's Onken cabinets & many of Scott's cabinets are meant to include a "holey brace" for cabinet strength, etc., i.e. we can pretty well always assume that inclusion of the "holey brace" is required. I realized that my plans for the FHXL do not explicitly mention a "holey brace".
So, I just thought that I should confirm that the FHXL does not require a "holey brace".
Thanks, Ron
From that reading/research, I know that Dave's Onken cabinets & many of Scott's cabinets are meant to include a "holey brace" for cabinet strength, etc., i.e. we can pretty well always assume that inclusion of the "holey brace" is required. I realized that my plans for the FHXL do not explicitly mention a "holey brace".
So, I just thought that I should confirm that the FHXL does not require a "holey brace".
Thanks, Ron
The damping plan is generic, and only a suggestion sinc emuch depends on room, room palcement, and taste.
For the FE126 30g in the point and nothing else is the 1st suggestion. If you find in your instalaltion that there is too much bass them additional damping can be added below the driver in increasing amounts until things sound right.
If you have too little bass you have to play with positioning.
dave
FHXL doesn't use the holey / perforated brace. Those are Dave's favoured type of bracing scheme, and from a technical POV they are about the optimal way of doing it for boxes, albeit a complete pain in the jacksie to make and total overkill in small enclosures. They're not ideal for horn variations given the airflow & space involved, so are not included.
There is no such brace in the FHs, largely due to the many drivers that can be installed, but i see no reason why one couldn’t be added, make it skinny thou (say 12mm ply) and smallish. The sizes and inherent bracing at the tops of the box make any benefits less than in other designs.
dave
edit: plus what Scott said.