Welcome to the forum. 🙂
Correct.
Efficiency across the majority of the BW is inherent to the drive unit. The enclosure only impacts the LF response. To increase midband efficiency, you'd need a front horn.
Depends on the dimensions of said horn, but a major imbalance in sound pressure levels between the low frequency region and the midband is the most likely result.
Should do.
Difficult to say from the published data, since the HF region is so heavily compressed that it doesn't give a clear idea about how it's behaving. Possibly.
I assume corner loading affects only (or primarily) the output of the horn
Correct.
I ask this because I am hoping to maximize the sensitivity up to 500 - 1000hz. And then again above 8kz or so.
Efficiency across the majority of the BW is inherent to the drive unit. The enclosure only impacts the LF response. To increase midband efficiency, you'd need a front horn.
What should I expect if I loaded the front of the driver with a L'Cleach flare?
Depends on the dimensions of said horn, but a major imbalance in sound pressure levels between the low frequency region and the midband is the most likely result.
Lastly, I saw that the Tang Bang bamboo cones W4 1320s worked in a FH Mk3. The W4-1337 have similar specs would these work
Should do.
...and give the extra SPL above 8kz that I think I want?
Difficult to say from the published data, since the HF region is so heavily compressed that it doesn't give a clear idea about how it's behaving. Possibly.
Thanks for quick response.
Hmmm. So If I could make the horn easily removeable, I could use it or not as desired.
Depends on the dimensions of said horn, but a major imbalance in sound pressure levels between the low frequency region and the midband is the most likely result.
Hmmm. So If I could make the horn easily removeable, I could use it or not as desired.
Another option to enhance below 500-1000Hz and above 8kHz would be to attenuate frequencies above 500-1000Hz and below 8kHz, via EQ.
Software EQ in digital player, MiniDSP, analog EQ, whatever...
Sorry for overstating the obvious.
Software EQ in digital player, MiniDSP, analog EQ, whatever...
Sorry for overstating the obvious.
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Another option to enhance below 500-1000Hz and above 8kHz would be to attenuate frequencies above 500-1000Hz and below 8kHz, via EQ.
Software EQ in digital player, MiniDSP, analog EQ, whatever...
Sorry for overstating the obvious.
True but not as much fun to execute.
I can't argue with that! 🙂
I could also suggest the unspeakable; build a multi-way speaker!
(not that I would do it myself) 😀
I could also suggest the unspeakable; build a multi-way speaker!
(not that I would do it myself) 😀
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Good news.
My A7.3's just arrived from Darcher Audio. Dan had been hunting for grey sets for weeks and finally found a few pairs. So I now have all the parts to go ahead with the FH3's.
The only issue is the ply I bought is 19.5 mm thick (measured all the way around).
I have heard mention of needing to change dimensions in one of the build threads but cant find the post(s).
I will have to change some cuts but should I be recalculating all the cuts to maintain exact internal dimensions/volume?
Has anybody already drawn up plans or have the sketchup file so I can adjust it properly? (Winking at you Dave) 😉
Cheers
Dean
My A7.3's just arrived from Darcher Audio. Dan had been hunting for grey sets for weeks and finally found a few pairs. So I now have all the parts to go ahead with the FH3's.
The only issue is the ply I bought is 19.5 mm thick (measured all the way around).
I have heard mention of needing to change dimensions in one of the build threads but cant find the post(s).
I will have to change some cuts but should I be recalculating all the cuts to maintain exact internal dimensions/volume?
Has anybody already drawn up plans or have the sketchup file so I can adjust it properly? (Winking at you Dave) 😉
Cheers
Dean
Yes, you will need to adjust to as best maintain internal dimensions as possible, i do have drawings.
dave
dave
Why is the fh3 tilted?
Greetings 'single lovers'!
This might be a asked befor but I can't seem to find it.
What is the reason for the 4.8 degree tilt of the tqwt part of the fh3? Would there be any reason not to go ahead and build a straight version (for a pair of CHR70)?
Greetings 'single lovers'!
This might be a asked befor but I can't seem to find it.
What is the reason for the 4.8 degree tilt of the tqwt part of the fh3? Would there be any reason not to go ahead and build a straight version (for a pair of CHR70)?
Greetings 'single lovers'!
This might be a asked befor but I can't seem to find it.
What is the reason for the 4.8 degree tilt of the tqwt part of the fh3? Would there be any reason not to go ahead and build a straight version (for a pair of CHR70)?
aesthetics, mostly, but considering the driver mounting height is approx 32" ( 809mm) it also helps with vertical dispersion
Scott could answer more technically, but I think the answer to the second question is: "yes, there are reasons not to change the geometry & CSA of the second section of the folded path"
FH3 is derived from a hypex horn. If you make the front straight, you change the cross section and horn expansion profile; this will in turn alter the gain & functional BW of the box. The dimensions / shape of FH3 generally pull several duties; the sloping front provides the expansion while also angling the driver up slightly, since for some people the mounting height would otherwise be a little low.
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There should be nothing stopping someone from tipping the entire horn forward the 5° and then realigning the top and bottom as long as the internal details are kept the same.
dave
dave
Hi guy's, just got a valve amp and was wondering what tap you would recommend for the Mark Audio alpair 7 in the frugal horn, 4 or 8 ohm.
Think the spec says there 5.2, so a little confused.
Scratch
Think the spec says there 5.2, so a little confused.
Scratch
Depends on the specific behaviour of the amp, and ultimately what you prefer. Try both if possible and see what you like more.
Ok, thanks Scott.
I doubt either will damage anything, and you may or not hear much difference.
Remember the single number listed on the spec sheet is DC resistance. Even the simplest graph of test sweep for T/S parameters will show the wide range of impedance with frequency.
In the case of the A7.3 the REVC = 5.4Ohm, but the impedance curve shows the peak at 70Hz of approx 35 Ohms, a minimum slightly higher than 6 Ohms ad at 300-400 HZ range, a fairly smooth rise that with minor resonant peak at 1500Hz, continuing to approx 12 Ohms at 40K.
Since any driver mounted in an enclosure may likely display different impedance characteristics from the test specs, and music is far more complex than any test signal, there will be few points at which the nominal "match" between any driver and any transformer coupled amp is "perfect" .
Am I doing it wrong somehow?
I'm laying out the pattern of the sides and using a measurement of 10 ¼" from the top right edge and 17 11/16" over and 15mm up from the bottom I get a chord length of
35 5/8" instead of the specified 35 3/8". Does that ¼" matter?
Thanks
Charlie
I'm laying out the pattern of the sides and using a measurement of 10 ¼" from the top right edge and 17 11/16" over and 15mm up from the bottom I get a chord length of
35 5/8" instead of the specified 35 3/8". Does that ¼" matter?
Thanks
Charlie
Hello to all members of diyAudio, I'm doing a frugel-horn mk3 and studying the plans do not understand why on FH3-2 plan for 18mm , the side panel is 194mm in the top and yet on page 10 the side pattern the top measure is 185mm...there is something wrong?
Regards.
Regards.
Hi folks + seasons greetings
I have had my FH mk3s with fostex 126 for some time now and am very happy. But was wondering if a pair of drivers could be attached to the front baffle? Has this been tried? Would it be a good idea?
I have had my FH mk3s with fostex 126 for some time now and am very happy. But was wondering if a pair of drivers could be attached to the front baffle? Has this been tried? Would it be a good idea?
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