yes A7's, i don't really know how to describe the bass its a bit boomey, hollow,not tight.
simon
simon
Sounds like you need more damping....temporarily you can pull them out from the wall. bass will still be fat but some of the boom should go away.
dave
dave
Particularly the left side that is tight into the corner. I can see that the door on the right side constricts placement - does the room allow for alternate placement, perhaps with some toe-in?
It's been our experience so far that the A7 needs far less horn lift in the bottom octaves than the FE126E.
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can't do much about placement at the moment, i'll bring them out a bit and try to pull the left one out of the corner.(actually that door is not used much hmm...)
can you explain "far less horn lift in the....." please chris?
simon
can you explain "far less horn lift in the....." please chris?
simon
Proximity to walls or corner change the loading and increase the apparent size of the horn (ie in free space, the mouth radiates into a sphere, put it on the floor, half sphere, push back against a wall, 1/4 sphere, into the corner 1/8 sphere)
dave
dave
Hi,
I just picked up a sheet of 18mm Baltic birch plywood and
I have the beta document25-October-2010. I didn't see a cut
sheet diagram for the 18mm, just wondering if anyone had one.
Thanks
I just picked up a sheet of 18mm Baltic birch plywood and
I have the beta document25-October-2010. I didn't see a cut
sheet diagram for the 18mm, just wondering if anyone had one.
Thanks
see page 2,post 15 for 18mm front & side elevation, i had to draw my own cut sheet for the nominal 18mm (17.4 mm ply) i used
simon
simon
cut plan for 5x5ft Baltic birch on page 7 of
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/beta/FH-Mk3-betaDoc-251010.pdf
Note as mentioned in one of several threads, this is a very tight cut plan. I'd fabricated this pair from offcuts from other projects, so only drew this plan up after the fact. The side and front panels are laid out for maintaining grain direction if material is not to be post veneered or p-lamed.
Some random thoughts:
It seems to me that stuffing the horn is done to A) reduce ripple, B) reduce bass.
Given that the Alpair 7 needs quite a bit of stuffing to reduce the bass, would it make sense to stuff enough to manage ripple, and then use EQ to reduce the bass? The desired positive effect would be to minimize cone excursion - does that make sense? I.e. "overgaining" the bass in the horn, given a certain amount of excursion, and then taking the output down by altering the input signal. Could this help with power handling, excursion, and dynamics?
It seems to me that stuffing the horn is done to A) reduce ripple, B) reduce bass.
Given that the Alpair 7 needs quite a bit of stuffing to reduce the bass, would it make sense to stuff enough to manage ripple, and then use EQ to reduce the bass? The desired positive effect would be to minimize cone excursion - does that make sense? I.e. "overgaining" the bass in the horn, given a certain amount of excursion, and then taking the output down by altering the input signal. Could this help with power handling, excursion, and dynamics?
Precisely! Thanks for the reply. I've had a lot of fun - and some nice results too - with high-quality digital EQ plugins with the Cyburgs Needles. This case should be even more interesting - playing with abundance is a timeless source of fun.
An RC filter (or even just a first-order highpass) on the speaker could accomplish this- like a reversed BSC circuit. This would have the advantage of providing rumble filtering and giving the amp a nice high load to (not have to) work against in the bass.
Regarding joints - I built my Needles just by gluing together flat pieces of wood. No reinforcement of joints. Are the Frugel-Horn mark-threes built with more complex joint work?
Rarely do we use anything other than butt joints (mostly only on the bamboo ply builds, and that is only to properly take advantage of the end grain).
dave
dave
I wondered about that too. Butt joints work fine. Take a couple scraps and butt joint them with yellow carpenters glue over night. In the morning try breaking them apart ( you won't be able to ). Then consider the glued area of your build.
I know what would happen - the wood breaks before the glue does 🙂
Got it. Thanks guys!
well, of course even today's "miracle" wood adhesives need a pair of decent clean mating surfaces for maximum strength bond