hello everybody,
i have a ft1600mkII, it is a mltl fe167e; my roommate wants one, so i'm planning to sell of this speaker. the conus is treated and there are planet10 phase plugs in it. (great step up)
A)now, i had already bought a fe127e for my pc speaker. and i thought using a The Classic Golden-Ratio fonken. But planet10 was working on another enclosure: so maybe it is already there but not published ?
B)i'm not gonna use the 127e for my main rig, not enough bass i think. So i have in mind a few drivers: fe167e or a 206/207e driver. i could go more expensive (like a 120, or the sigma models) but why ? if a fe167e plays as good (if treated).
So a few questions: a 166mm fostex or a 208mm fostex : the smaller gives better midrange, but less bass. the bigger might be short in the highs ?
the enclosure i'm looking for can be anything. So a fonken 167 looks great, but i "spawn family model" is also an option: the woodwoorking must be simple, but when it comes down to size, i can accept hugh speakers.
So what would you build ? and why, (at this moment i think i might build a fonken 167: a decent design, not to big and good sound).
ps: i still have a coral flat 8; but need a good enclosure: the BR which it is in is to sharp (needs more demping i guess). They say the coral plays super in a horn, but those horns are a pain to build. anyone with a good enclosure for that. And does anyone has already treated a coral with modpodge ? or tried to get rid of the dust cap, cause it is aluminium ? the corals have the same problem as the fe167 : way to shouty with the dust cap: after super great succes with the fe167, i wanna try it also with the corals
thanks people
i have a ft1600mkII, it is a mltl fe167e; my roommate wants one, so i'm planning to sell of this speaker. the conus is treated and there are planet10 phase plugs in it. (great step up)
A)now, i had already bought a fe127e for my pc speaker. and i thought using a The Classic Golden-Ratio fonken. But planet10 was working on another enclosure: so maybe it is already there but not published ?
B)i'm not gonna use the 127e for my main rig, not enough bass i think. So i have in mind a few drivers: fe167e or a 206/207e driver. i could go more expensive (like a 120, or the sigma models) but why ? if a fe167e plays as good (if treated).
So a few questions: a 166mm fostex or a 208mm fostex : the smaller gives better midrange, but less bass. the bigger might be short in the highs ?
the enclosure i'm looking for can be anything. So a fonken 167 looks great, but i "spawn family model" is also an option: the woodwoorking must be simple, but when it comes down to size, i can accept hugh speakers.
So what would you build ? and why, (at this moment i think i might build a fonken 167: a decent design, not to big and good sound).
ps: i still have a coral flat 8; but need a good enclosure: the BR which it is in is to sharp (needs more demping i guess). They say the coral plays super in a horn, but those horns are a pain to build. anyone with a good enclosure for that. And does anyone has already treated a coral with modpodge ? or tried to get rid of the dust cap, cause it is aluminium ? the corals have the same problem as the fe167 : way to shouty with the dust cap: after super great succes with the fe167, i wanna try it also with the corals
thanks people
aha, but how,
with a surgical blade ? can it cut that easy through the metal ?
i suppose you have done this mod BTW, so maybe you have done a cone treatment, or do you have them in a certain enclosure ?
thanks a lot BTW
with a surgical blade ? can it cut that easy through the metal ?
i suppose you have done this mod BTW, so maybe you have done a cone treatment, or do you have them in a certain enclosure ?
thanks a lot BTW
Yes, use a very sharp blade to puncture the dust cap then slowly remove the dust cap..
I don't do any cone mods eg painting etc... I like the keep the drivers in as orginal condition as possible.. It was my friend who did the dust cap mod and we A/B...... huge improvements after removal of dust cap.. Anyway the tone should improve after the dust cap removal, don't think you'll want to treat the cone any further...
The Australia Coral East Marine's website had the cabinet plans for the Beta 8 ... that's the box we have used with vey good results.
Last edited:
The only FE127 box i'm working on right now is the FonkenPrime... and except for one small optinal modification, is creating plan versions for differing material thicknesses, adding cutting & damping plans and assembly diagrams. All stuff that will make them easier to build. There will be a small fee for the more complete set of plans, the current plans will remain free (much like Bob Brines does for the FT1600.
The Fonken167 1v1 plans are nearing completion, i'll need some beta testers, but these will end up similar to FonkenPrime 1v1 plans.
dave
thanks guys
@btw
i'll give it a try to remove the dustcap, and might put in a pahse plug, the beta models have one, so i'm gonna try that to. painting, well i'll see, but my flat's are not new, on the contrary they are old and could use some painting i guess, so that the the paper cone doesn't come apart.
are you saing that you put a flat 8 in a beta horn backloaded setup ? or did you put a flat in a beta BR of closed ?
@planet10
aha, the fonkenprime is a small fonken with the venting on the side like the big fonkens ?
i don't mind paying a small fee for a design, i have bought bob brines his as well, beside he and you are giving very good support, that's nice too.
okee, i'll watch the big fonkens too.
but until then i might build a new enclosure for the flat 8. a smack horn is one of the candidates, i have red online that it sounds good. But a spawn-familiy is even easier and would be my lucky shot. i'm gonna start looking for those specs, so that maybe you can advice me what to do.
does anyone can help me out on the the fe167 fe206 issue; well more generly the 166 and 208mm drivers ?
thanks a lot people
@btw
i'll give it a try to remove the dustcap, and might put in a pahse plug, the beta models have one, so i'm gonna try that to. painting, well i'll see, but my flat's are not new, on the contrary they are old and could use some painting i guess, so that the the paper cone doesn't come apart.
are you saing that you put a flat 8 in a beta horn backloaded setup ? or did you put a flat in a beta BR of closed ?
@planet10
aha, the fonkenprime is a small fonken with the venting on the side like the big fonkens ?
i don't mind paying a small fee for a design, i have bought bob brines his as well, beside he and you are giving very good support, that's nice too.
okee, i'll watch the big fonkens too.
but until then i might build a new enclosure for the flat 8. a smack horn is one of the candidates, i have red online that it sounds good. But a spawn-familiy is even easier and would be my lucky shot. i'm gonna start looking for those specs, so that maybe you can advice me what to do.
does anyone can help me out on the the fe167 fe206 issue; well more generly the 166 and 208mm drivers ?
thanks a lot people
Even I get confused looking at the entire catalog table of contents.
In order left to right
"prime" - as in the first of the Fostex series with the resistive slot ports, 13 liters/ shown with FE127E
"milli" - approx 4.5 liters - FE127E
"micro" - approx 2 liters - FF85K
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As with many other enclosure architectures, this one is scalable to driver's dimensions and T/S parameters (within reason). So in addition to a taller floorstanding version of the Prime for FE167E (23 liters working volume ) there are other -'ken designs for Mark Audio and CSS drivers.
Try as I might, I haven't been able to build all of them
yet
The drivers you named (167 and 206) are significantly different that formulating an answer really comes back to a check list that includes:
- room size & domestic considerations regarding enclosure size and primary listening positions
- listening habits
- preferred amplifier type (if any)
To repeat what I've mentioned before, I have 3 main operating systems at home, in quite different sized rooms, and used for different purposes.
- 200sq ft man-cave ; main speakers either FE127E or FE167E in prime enclosures - amps range from 2A3 or 300B DHT monoblocks to Jolida 302 EL34 PP triode
- 320sq ft family room; 2 Channel TV system - FE167E floorstanding Fonken - amp is Kingrex T20U
- 400+sq ft living/dining room; CSS EL70 dual driver "Castle Micro-tower" - amp is some generic '80s vintage 30 or so watt Sony 2 channel receiver.
None ever get played loud enough to hurt the gear or the listener, and since my teen-age son moved out, the need has never been felt for "more volume/bass, etc.
but as ever, your driving habits and mileage may vary
Sorry I wasn't too clear... I meant the Beta 8 BR box.. I've heard the Beta 10 in the BR box and BLH box as well.... IMHO I think the Corals do better in BR cabinets
thanks BTW, that is great information
i have already the coral flats in a BR, it was on diyparadise; it is not one of the factury models, but it was designed for it, so not a problem.
may i ask you what did you use as demping material ? i use buble plastic, still i think that might be to minimalistic (that's what they use on diyparadise) but i will remove the dustcap first.
@ chrisb
thanks to, for the information
well i decided to go for the best full range setup i can go.
so all options are open, offcourse money is an issue, i know i can spent a lot of money on a 206Esigma and a t90a tweeter. so some other questions
1)a modded fe167e does it comes close to a 168Esigma.
2)or modded 206e 207e does it comes close to a 20Xsigma?
at this moment, from what i have red all night, i'm leaning to a big horn with a 168Esigma. but i would like to read what the pro's have to say on this.
a)does the fonken sound better or not (with the same driver : and that has to be the 167e i think cause the 168 is really made for horns)
b)well what would you do, when space isn't an issue. the fonken 167e or a BIB/spawn/.... with a 168sigma
c)a friend of mine wants a speaker to, i thought of a 207 in a big blh with a tweeter, can i replace the expensive tweeter with a ft17h ?
a lot of questions i know,
thanks people
i have already the coral flats in a BR, it was on diyparadise; it is not one of the factury models, but it was designed for it, so not a problem.
may i ask you what did you use as demping material ? i use buble plastic, still i think that might be to minimalistic (that's what they use on diyparadise) but i will remove the dustcap first.
@ chrisb
thanks to, for the information
well i decided to go for the best full range setup i can go.
so all options are open, offcourse money is an issue, i know i can spent a lot of money on a 206Esigma and a t90a tweeter. so some other questions
1)a modded fe167e does it comes close to a 168Esigma.
2)or modded 206e 207e does it comes close to a 20Xsigma?
at this moment, from what i have red all night, i'm leaning to a big horn with a 168Esigma. but i would like to read what the pro's have to say on this.
a)does the fonken sound better or not (with the same driver : and that has to be the 167e i think cause the 168 is really made for horns)
b)well what would you do, when space isn't an issue. the fonken 167e or a BIB/spawn/.... with a 168sigma
c)a friend of mine wants a speaker to, i thought of a 207 in a big blh with a tweeter, can i replace the expensive tweeter with a ft17h ?
a lot of questions i know,
thanks people
i have been reading more and more 🙂
and i stopped at ronhorns, like the A166; everybody is raving about it, so this might be the one for me; but the woodworking isn't straightforward. So a few questions about it
1)is it possible to build this horn differently ? more straigt and bigger, but easier to build ?
2)does anyone know how it compares to the much easier to build fonken?
thanks a lot guys;
and i stopped at ronhorns, like the A166; everybody is raving about it, so this might be the one for me; but the woodworking isn't straightforward. So a few questions about it
1)is it possible to build this horn differently ? more straigt and bigger, but easier to build ?
2)does anyone know how it compares to the much easier to build fonken?
thanks a lot guys;
Ignoring some of the thot experiments (ie wallFonkens) & specialty designs (the TV stand with mFonken derivatives) once you finish the Mar-Kel70 you are working on, the only one outstanding is the uFonken^2 (and the plans for those didn't exist 36 hrs ago).
dave
I use a thin felt to line the inside of the cabinets... I guess plastic bubble should be OK too...
thanks BTW, i'll give that a try.
at this moment, there are only two desings that i'm intersted in
the A166 and the fonken166.
there is a very detailed plan for the A166, where there is shown very well under which angles the wood has to be cut. it is much more difficult than the fonken. i wonder how they compare to each other; I might use a 168Esigma for it. you can buy 4 fe166 for 2 fe168 but in absolute figures it is still very much payable i think.
so waiting for some people who can compare them and the plans of the fonker166
thanks guys
at this moment, there are only two desings that i'm intersted in
the A166 and the fonken166.
there is a very detailed plan for the A166, where there is shown very well under which angles the wood has to be cut. it is much more difficult than the fonken. i wonder how they compare to each other; I might use a 168Esigma for it. you can buy 4 fe166 for 2 fe168 but in absolute figures it is still very much payable i think.
so waiting for some people who can compare them and the plans of the fonker166
thanks guys
oh yes sorry planet10.
i'll be waiting for the plans,
my fe127e has just arrived. so i can and must start building cause my ft1600 is going out of the door. i have measured and i have the place for a regular fonken 127; but i intended to build a golden ratio.
what do you advice planet10 when you know that i will put them against the wall, and that i will be listing at very very close distance: less then a meter: i use them as high end pc speakers (i have a usb dac and decent amp in between). maybe the proximity kills a lot of the spaciousness ? i don't know
thanks
i'll be waiting for the plans,
my fe127e has just arrived. so i can and must start building cause my ft1600 is going out of the door. i have measured and i have the place for a regular fonken 127; but i intended to build a golden ratio.
what do you advice planet10 when you know that i will put them against the wall, and that i will be listing at very very close distance: less then a meter: i use them as high end pc speakers (i have a usb dac and decent amp in between). maybe the proximity kills a lot of the spaciousness ? i don't know
thanks
The Classic GR is well suited to add some open cel foam to the port if you find the bottom with too much lift due to near wall placement.
dave
dave
@btw
i have brought the coral to my apparment (they were at my parents home)
i have put them next to the fostes Fe167, and the coral driver really is a giant compared to the fostex.
the coral is not the flat 8 but the flat 10;
i wonder BTW if you have heard this model, and the dustcap removed or not ?
@everyone
i'm looking for something to seal the drivers from the wood. i have cut a hole in the wood, and put the driver in there, but there is no felt ring around. (well i suppose that it could be felt, could anyone tell me what to use as a seal between the frame of the driver and the cabinet ?
thanks a lot
oh yes: the sound of the MLTL 167e versus the coral is quite different: the coral hardly produces bass (while being twice the size: but that's why i need the sealing); the highs are much more there with the coral, a bit to much. I need to tweak the driver, but they sound clearer then the fostex.
thanks guys
greetz
i have brought the coral to my apparment (they were at my parents home)
i have put them next to the fostes Fe167, and the coral driver really is a giant compared to the fostex.
the coral is not the flat 8 but the flat 10;
i wonder BTW if you have heard this model, and the dustcap removed or not ?
@everyone
i'm looking for something to seal the drivers from the wood. i have cut a hole in the wood, and put the driver in there, but there is no felt ring around. (well i suppose that it could be felt, could anyone tell me what to use as a seal between the frame of the driver and the cabinet ?
thanks a lot
oh yes: the sound of the MLTL 167e versus the coral is quite different: the coral hardly produces bass (while being twice the size: but that's why i need the sealing); the highs are much more there with the coral, a bit to much. I need to tweak the driver, but they sound clearer then the fostex.
thanks guys
greetz
i have just cut out the dust cap,
it was very easy, much easier then the fostex one, the metal came beautiful off, so that was great.
i start listing to the speaker, and my impression still holds, the coral isn't capable of producing bass, at least in this enclosure, there must be somthing wrong with it.
i have put in some pictures,
the corals i have put on top of the fostex's; i know the bass port should be close to the ground, but that didn't do the trick, ik feels like there is no bass; the speaker is much clearer then the fostex, but then again, it may be so because of the big amount off highs.
i'm gonna look into another enclosure for the coral,; maybe the original, (but this one is also designed to work). if anybody want's to comment on this, please knock yourself out.
ps: i'm building an golden ratio fonken at the moment;
greetz
it was very easy, much easier then the fostex one, the metal came beautiful off, so that was great.
i start listing to the speaker, and my impression still holds, the coral isn't capable of producing bass, at least in this enclosure, there must be somthing wrong with it.
i have put in some pictures,
the corals i have put on top of the fostex's; i know the bass port should be close to the ground, but that didn't do the trick, ik feels like there is no bass; the speaker is much clearer then the fostex, but then again, it may be so because of the big amount off highs.
i'm gonna look into another enclosure for the coral,; maybe the original, (but this one is also designed to work). if anybody want's to comment on this, please knock yourself out.
ps: i'm building an golden ratio fonken at the moment;
greetz
Attachments
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.