Yes Charles, that was a little poke at myself for the enjoyment of those who know me. Not a comment concerning you my friend.
I think we can all agree that affected wouldn't be the word. Inspired, maybe, obsessed, perhaps, but merely affected? No.
Regards.
Aengus
(who is still reeling from standing only 30 metres or so from those horns)
Well, after some more thought, a lot more thought, I realized that it's very tiring on trying to figure out a way to go with small enclosures. I've finally said the heck with it and will be going large. Going large will get me where I want to be with this system.
With that in mind, I think I will be going with the G Chang with either the 207E or 206E with 4 ohms of series resistance. I want to do the G Chang because it will be a somewhat simple build. I still have to decide on which driver to go with, the 206 or 207. I like the idea of the 207 being a bit smoother, but I don't want it to be dull to where a tweeter will be needed. But I have also read that the 206 can be a bit "in your face". Maybe with a little series resistance and quite possibly BSC will take care of that.
BTW, I got my ideas (the differences) of each driver from this recent thread... Fostex FE206/207 or others
Your thoughts please! My head is hurting from all of this research and trying to figure out what driver to go with.
With that in mind, I think I will be going with the G Chang with either the 207E or 206E with 4 ohms of series resistance. I want to do the G Chang because it will be a somewhat simple build. I still have to decide on which driver to go with, the 206 or 207. I like the idea of the 207 being a bit smoother, but I don't want it to be dull to where a tweeter will be needed. But I have also read that the 206 can be a bit "in your face". Maybe with a little series resistance and quite possibly BSC will take care of that.
BTW, I got my ideas (the differences) of each driver from this recent thread... Fostex FE206/207 or others
Your thoughts please! My head is hurting from all of this research and trying to figure out what driver to go with.
If you don't mind loosing some efficiency, then go with the 206, plus phase plugs, or buy them from Dave fully modified. However you will probably need a circuit on it; not BSC, the cabinet sorts that out for you, but a shelving filter due to the driver's naturally rising response which the horns are too small to attenuate.
Why would I be loosing efficiency by going with the 206? Is it because of the shelving filter? And how much are we talking about loosing?
Also, why do you choose the 206 over the 207? Just curious.
Thanks, as usual! 😉
Also, why do you choose the 206 over the 207? Just curious.
Thanks, as usual! 😉
You'll loose a little compared to the factory claims if you added a shelving filter -published sensitivity is usually taken as an average, or at a specific point in the FR; preferably from the manufacturers POV one that'll look good on paper.
All other things being equal, I like bigger motors as you've inherently more flexibility. Even though you'll loose some of the benefits by adding some passive components, there's still some advantages to having that big old lump bolted to the back of the driver. More to it than that of course & the key is 'all other things being equal', which they seldom are. For e.g. (and if you'll forgive a slight digression), in a box designed for the 127, I'd always go for the 127, rather than a 126 with series resistance, primarily because the former has a bit more excursion & a more benign break-up behaviour in such loads. And so on & so forth.
If you bought the raw drivers, I'd spend a little extra time tweaking it up though. If you want to get the best from the 206, phase plugs are almost mandatory, and damping the frame & motor reaps rewards.
If you wanted to go even further, & slightly more esoteric, some people add a second magnet & report further gains, while others also 'ground' (although technically it's not really grounding) the chassis to the - terminal. And then there's EnABL, which I still can't fully comment on because I haven't got much practical experience with drivers modified in this way. Think of it like a Mustang; there are lots of extras you can play with / add. Alternatively, just buy a pair from Dave; pair-matched, plugged, damped & EnABL'd.
All other things being equal, I like bigger motors as you've inherently more flexibility. Even though you'll loose some of the benefits by adding some passive components, there's still some advantages to having that big old lump bolted to the back of the driver. More to it than that of course & the key is 'all other things being equal', which they seldom are. For e.g. (and if you'll forgive a slight digression), in a box designed for the 127, I'd always go for the 127, rather than a 126 with series resistance, primarily because the former has a bit more excursion & a more benign break-up behaviour in such loads. And so on & so forth.
If you bought the raw drivers, I'd spend a little extra time tweaking it up though. If you want to get the best from the 206, phase plugs are almost mandatory, and damping the frame & motor reaps rewards.
If you wanted to go even further, & slightly more esoteric, some people add a second magnet & report further gains, while others also 'ground' (although technically it's not really grounding) the chassis to the - terminal. And then there's EnABL, which I still can't fully comment on because I haven't got much practical experience with drivers modified in this way. Think of it like a Mustang; there are lots of extras you can play with / add. Alternatively, just buy a pair from Dave; pair-matched, plugged, damped & EnABL'd.
Scottmoose said:
I've actually been pondering the idea of purchasing my next drivers from Dave since they would already have the mods done to them. I would be too nervous taking an x-acto knife to them myself, or putting paint all over the cones (EnABL). I'd be afraid I'd mess them up.
So with the series resistance and shelving circuit, how much do you think I'd be loosing in output of the claimed 96dB? I only ask because as I said earlier, I am going to be limiting myself to 12 watts MAX via a KingRex T20 T-Rex. After inserting the series resistance, I'll be around 10.7 ohms, so I'll probably be looking at a usable 8-10 watts then.
#5 Pass
About as simple as i can make it. I have some refining to accomplish.
Using the 10" butal surround pioneer and the Fe87 will go from 26Hz to 20K +/- 4db.
ron
About as simple as i can make it. I have some refining to accomplish.
Using the 10" butal surround pioneer and the Fe87 will go from 26Hz to 20K +/- 4db.
ron
Really? In the G Chang .pdf note, it says to add 4 ohms with the 206
This is a two way system with a BVR configuration with all the energy coming from a single waveguide/horn. The 206 is a single driver (not including the wizzer) that is a great deal more efficent than the Fe87. The added resistance is necessary to lower the Qes which in return lowers the Qts which makes it more sutiable for BVR loading.
ron
Yall have a happy holiday, i am going home to SC for a break.
(the honey do list is growing).
This is a two way system with a BVR configuration with all the energy coming from a single waveguide/horn. The 206 is a single driver (not including the wizzer) that is a great deal more efficent than the Fe87. The added resistance is necessary to lower the Qes which in return lowers the Qts which makes it more sutiable for BVR loading.
ron
Yall have a happy holiday, i am going home to SC for a break.
(the honey do list is growing).
like it Ron. Reminds me of the old JBL Aquarius 3 prototypes (aesthetically speaking).
Hummmmm! I can see some benefits to the extended mouth.
ron
Hummmmm! I can see some benefits to the extended mouth.
ron
REC1 said:
Right, like any wide BW WG it needs an end correction termination such as the 'flipped' out version used on the Unity concept and many commercial CD horns.
GM
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