Agreed, I first saw/experienced some at the tender age of eight, been hooked on horns/cinema sound ever since.
GM
GM
Thank you Derek,
I ask because I'm contemplating a little more ambitious build, and thinking about trying to get something on the order of 80/40 degree coverage. But I'm also going to " round off the corners a bit too. Haven't decided but I'm leaning to 8 sides with the top and bottom a little bit wider to spread the horizontal dispersion. Can't figure how to simulate it though...
John
I ask because I'm contemplating a little more ambitious build, and thinking about trying to get something on the order of 80/40 degree coverage. But I'm also going to " round off the corners a bit too. Haven't decided but I'm leaning to 8 sides with the top and bottom a little bit wider to spread the horizontal dispersion. Can't figure how to simulate it though...
John
Hi All, I am now the proud owner of these horns (for a couple of weeks to see if I like them) I can tell you that have no roll off until mid 14k at which point my hearing ends anyway. They are very open, fast, and detailed. The lower midrange is not as ballsy as I'd like but it does sound good. I run my subs up to 150hz and it melds well with the horns. Next week I will pick up the "H" woofs and see how they sound. All in All, I like them quite a bit. They should not sound as good as they do with a Qts of .25 and Xmax of .35mm....but for some unknown reason, they sound good.
hopefully in the next week or two I will have good measuring equipment in the room and will post results.
hopefully in the next week or two I will have good measuring equipment in the room and will post results.
Update, my subs are sealed and in corner cabs. I was getting a boom at around 50 to 30hz so this morning I pulled the subs out of the corner and up to the horns and now they are flat down to 20hz. This system sound really great. This Thursday I am getting an active 2 way crossover and will put in the "H" boxes in stead of the subs and see how they sound.
I got the "H" frames with Alpha 15s installed in the system and running them with a plate amp on either side.
After much much listening they seemed shouty so I stepped through my tone tracks and the crossover region with the "H" frames is very smooth and flat. From there they are very flat until it hits 3.5khz at which point they scream. I would judge at least a 6db bump from 3.5khz on up.....I don't have measuring equipment.
I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what is going on and then I realized that even though they look like big horns, they are still open baffle.
So, I fired up the Edge program and sure enough, it talks about a 6db roll off in the bass. the program has a bass bost comp design function so I worked with that and came up with a circuit that might work. HOWEVER, it shows what would normally be an opamp in the forum of a triangle but makes no mention anywhere of an opamp.
Can you tell me what this represents in the pix???
After much much listening they seemed shouty so I stepped through my tone tracks and the crossover region with the "H" frames is very smooth and flat. From there they are very flat until it hits 3.5khz at which point they scream. I would judge at least a 6db bump from 3.5khz on up.....I don't have measuring equipment.
I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what is going on and then I realized that even though they look like big horns, they are still open baffle.
So, I fired up the Edge program and sure enough, it talks about a 6db roll off in the bass. the program has a bass bost comp design function so I worked with that and came up with a circuit that might work. HOWEVER, it shows what would normally be an opamp in the forum of a triangle but makes no mention anywhere of an opamp.
Can you tell me what this represents in the pix???
Attachments
So the shouty character only started after inserting the H frames and active crossover? Or, did you notice this the first time you fired them up with your subs and passive crossover?
No, it has always been there. I am thinking it is the common OB 6db drop in bass, which the comp filter addresses. I just have to figure out if that triangle is my amp....that is what it is normally used to represent. If so, then the first resistor would go to the poss of the input of the amp and the circuit would end up at the poss of the output.....but I don't know for sure and don't want to blow anything up.
No problem Nuconz. They are straight sided conical horns. The mouth is 2' wide x 4' tall. The centerline depth is 23". The back plate is 5.5" x 6.5"
I will take more detailed pix tomorrow.
At this point I am just trying to tweek every last bit out of them, not make a dramatic change. They are huge sounded speakers and increadably natural sounding. The sound stage is very wide, very deep, and shape as a tac.
Well. I just tried something it man did it make a HUGE difference. I had a couple small cardboard boxes laying around that measured 6x6x6" and thought, what the heck. So I duct taped them on the back of the driver and WOW, the mid bass has come back with a vengence. Almost louder than the highs. The down side is that they now sound like horns in stead of OBs. I'll have to listen for a while and see if this is something I should persue with MDF and stuffing and all the rest, but WOW.....that is all I can say.
Congratulations for that project!.
I would like to do the same but with different driver, a 8". Thinking in a Tang Band w8-1772 or a more expensive field coil as Fertin, Ems or Supravox.
Do you think that the general dimensions should change? Thx
You'll just need to re-size the throat to fit the driver. The mouth size, if left the same will still only be able to provide clean 200hz and up, but you should have better mid bass with an 8 inch.
Ok...Yes, it is not my intention go lower than 200 Hz, I'll let that task for the woofers. In principle, it should work as it is right? . I see that you used only one angle for the sides. What are the basis calculation that you used to decide those dimensions ? I have a little more space to put those speaker design and bigger doors 🙂..
Your angles will all change if you change the throat size to accomodate the 8 inch driver. Compound angles are involved in joining the four pieces together. I used a jig similar to the one in the Dr. Edgar midrange horn article to assist in assembly. This is not what I would consider an easy build.
yes I understand that. I am reading the links that you recommended for the horn theory, but, hard to see an example of calculation of the same type of horn as yours. I could use the same angles and if the throat is bigger, then the horn depth will increase also. I could use a second horn after the throat with different angle, but, not having the basic knowledge (Yet) it is hard to say what it will happen in theory.
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