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For Share: Remote Volume Control KIT

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cliffforrest said:
That is very kind of you but NOT what I wanted !!

Why can you not tell me the manufacturer and part number? Is this only available in China?

I need to make up my own cables (screened).

Cliff


Hi Cliff, this female connector is very common in China. Most of the 2.54mm female connectors will match the male connector in the main board :smash: Just like the two cable which connect the encoder and the controller board
 

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LU - I give up!

The reason I have been asking for days is that I cannot find a matching connector in Farnell, RS or any other European catalog or website.

All the ones with 0.1" pitch have 1mm pins, too big for the PCB!

bawling: :bawling:

How is anyone else managing? Soldering direct t the PCB? I will not do this!

Cliff
 
cliffforrest said:
LU - I give up!

The reason I have been asking for days is that I cannot find a matching connector in Farnell, RS or any other European catalog or website.

All the ones with 0.1" pitch have 1mm pins, too big for the PCB!

bawling: :bawling:

How is anyone else managing? Soldering direct t the PCB? I will not do this!

Cliff


soldering direct to the pcb is the better way.and that is easy.
 
Problem with C5 ?

Hi

I tested my kit for the first time this evening.
Everything worked great and I even had my own choice of phono as source. thanks Lu 🙂 I havent tried any audio trough it yet though.

I was satisfied for the moment but exactly when I turned the power off, C5 on the mother board exploded :bigeyes: . I havent changed it yet and I really hope that something else didn't got damaged.

C5 is a small Elyth with a value of 470 stamped (47 uF ?) paralell to the incoming 5Volt. There is a short because my bench PSU goes into current limit.

I'll try some other lyth tomorrow.

Anyhow is the C5 of bad quality, to little voltage or was it turned backwards maybe? I don't know yet. Just want to tell you all.
 
Re: Problem with C5 ?

Radioman62 said:
Hi

I tested my kit for the first time this evening.
Everything worked great and I even had my own choice of phono as source. thanks Lu 🙂 I havent tried any audio trough it yet though.

I was satisfied for the moment but exactly when I turned the power off, C5 on the mother board exploded :bigeyes: . I havent changed it yet and I really hope that something else didn't got damaged.

C5 is a small Elyth with a value of 470 stamped (47 uF ?) paralell to the incoming 5Volt. There is a short because my bench PSU goes into current limit.

I'll try some other lyth tomorrow.

Anyhow is the C5 of bad quality, to little voltage or was it turned backwards maybe? I don't know yet. Just want to tell you all.

Hi Radioman62,

C5 on the controller board is a PSU capacitor, its value is '476'=47uF. tantalum capacitor was considered as high performance capacitor than ele-capacitor, at the other side, tantanlum will be destroy if the power changed too fast but ele not.
So, try to replace C5 with a equal value one. The side marked is the positive pole. Good luck 🙂


regards
Lu
 

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Re: No luck

Radioman62 said:
Sorry, but that capacitor blowing to pieces probably took the processor with him to the other side.... :apathic:

The display lites up with a blue light without any text. Crystal is working 12Mhz but that doesn't help...

You have mail bbp

Hi Radioman62,

Don't worry, I'll send a new mainboard to you this weekend. Could you test the LCD first to check if itself work or not ? Please show me the picture ^_^ Thanks 🙂

regards
Lu
 
-> advices for v2

Hi bbp!

I would give some personal advices for v2:

1#
The main thing is the resistor network:
I attached a picture about a similar, but NOT R-2R network which has better sonic performance and it contains equal relays and resistors. (significant less signal loss)

2#
I guess the most of the people using less than 4 sources.
Maybe 3 input and 2 switchable output would be nice (personally I would use the 2nd output for my headphones amplifier and I don't need connect those parallel with the power amps.

3#
Dimmer or automatic down for backlight would be nice - in simple case with the "display" button on remote. (the compatibility with OLED/PLED display would be also nice)

4#
Optional I/V or buffer with a standard OPA would be nice if anyone would use it.

Please consider this advices for the future.
Thanks!

Others!
What do you think about my suggestions?
 

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Re: -> advices for v2

cartman said:
Hi bbp!

I would give some personal advices for v2:

1#
The main thing is the resistor network:
I attached a picture about a similar, but NOT R-2R network which has better sonic performance and it contains equal relays and resistors. (significant less signal loss)

2#
I guess the most of the people using less than 4 sources.
Maybe 3 input and 2 switchable output would be nice (personally I would use the 2nd output for my headphones amplifier and I don't need connect those parallel with the power amps.

3#
Dimmer or automatic down for backlight would be nice - in simple case with the "display" button on remote. (the compatibility with OLED/PLED display would be also nice)

4#
Optional I/V or buffer with a standard OPA would be nice if anyone would use it.

Please consider this advices for the future.
Thanks!

Others!
What do you think about my suggestions?

Thank you for your advice, cartman 🙂
1# 3# and 4# are very good :smash:

Maybe I will build a VOL kit like Marklevnsion No.32 later 😀


About 20 KITs left , go on and on :smash:
 
tHE pENGUIN

Hi Mr. Penguin ...öh I'm sorry hoka, and our master Mr. Lu 🙂

I don't know if my pictures bring anything to you Lu but anyway here they are.

For the penguin ... sorry hoka :violin: , you can dismantle the display and look at the cap mentioned. Is it turned the right way around? (look at Lu's picture above)
Then there shouldn't be any problem. But you never know....

This is the original display after cap change
 

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next picture

Real entertainment :eguitar:

In my pictures you can see that I have used quite a larger SMD cap (clumsy) at only 33uF. It's rated at 16 Volt though. I don't know Lu's choise of capacitor from the beginning. I had to scrape the card somewhat for fitting this one.
 

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Another display

This is another picture of the display not connected. I have cleaned it from the soot.

As a very addicted DIY man I have a lot of componenets laying around.... and I have bought them all ...:Pirate: 😀 So I have tested with yet another display to no avail...

As everyone can see, the CPU is dead for me . I hope that this cap wont be any trouble for other diy people. But as I said above, check polarity of yours. Maybe you are like me, .... a Mr. Murphy man 😉

:xeye: :sad: :sigh: :tilt: :usd:

Anyway, the kit is very good :violin: :worship: 😀 😎
 

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Re: Another display

Radioman62 said:
This is another picture of the display not connected. I have cleaned it from the soot.

As a very addicted DIY man I have a lot of componenets laying around.... and I have bought them all ...:Pirate: 😀 So I have tested with yet another display to no avail...

As everyone can see, the CPU is dead for me . I hope that this cap wont be any trouble for other diy people. But as I said above, check polarity of yours. Maybe you are like me, .... a Mr. Murphy man 😉

:xeye: :sad: :sigh: :tilt: :usd:

Anyway, the kit is very good :violin: :worship: 😀 😎


Hi Radioman62, I will send a new controller board with new LCD to you ^_^
Sorry to have this trouble happen to you, have a nice time🙂


regards
Lu
 
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