What happend and how to avoid it from happening..
I think I have killed my speakers/tweeter.. I have put a post out on the multi way forum about this and hoping to get an answer regarding the speaker problem there.
But I also want to know what happend an how I can avoid it from happening again. The amplifier I use is the F.O V1.3 with a Hypex SMPS so thats why I am here.
Ok what happend? I switch on my preamp/DAC and F.O. the preamp starts up and using a 3 volt trigger the Hypex SMPS switches on. So far everything went fine. Then I noticed that my preamp/DAC didn't locked on the USB signal coming from my iMac.
So I switched everything Off and On again and this time there was a lock on the signal but when the Hypex SMPS switched on there was a loud deep thump (my heart skipped a few beats).
I immediately noticed the sound coming from my speakers wasn't right, the tweeter was rattling. I now don't know if I have blown a tweeter (Philips RT8 with just a 2,2 Uf cap) or if I also killed my Eminence Beta 12LTA (no filter) or maybe just the cap.
I really want to know what happend. I know it has to do with the switching off an on but I don't know what happend in technical terms.
I also would like to know how I can avoid/protect it from happening in the future besides being careful with the on/off switch off course.
R.
I think I have killed my speakers/tweeter.. I have put a post out on the multi way forum about this and hoping to get an answer regarding the speaker problem there.
But I also want to know what happend an how I can avoid it from happening again. The amplifier I use is the F.O V1.3 with a Hypex SMPS so thats why I am here.
Ok what happend? I switch on my preamp/DAC and F.O. the preamp starts up and using a 3 volt trigger the Hypex SMPS switches on. So far everything went fine. Then I noticed that my preamp/DAC didn't locked on the USB signal coming from my iMac.
So I switched everything Off and On again and this time there was a lock on the signal but when the Hypex SMPS switched on there was a loud deep thump (my heart skipped a few beats).
I immediately noticed the sound coming from my speakers wasn't right, the tweeter was rattling. I now don't know if I have blown a tweeter (Philips RT8 with just a 2,2 Uf cap) or if I also killed my Eminence Beta 12LTA (no filter) or maybe just the cap.
I really want to know what happend. I know it has to do with the switching off an on but I don't know what happend in technical terms.
I also would like to know how I can avoid/protect it from happening in the future besides being careful with the on/off switch off course.
R.
Good question, did not think of writing that down. Yes, I have LazyCat's DC protection boards mounted.
R.
First, check the speakers' function with another system.
Then amp's function with another (cheap) speakers.
I didn't had spare parts or a second working amplifier so I took some time to test things.
I think my Beta 12LTA is fine the tweeters do have a hiss and rattle that where not present earlier swapping the caps helped quite a bit but the noise is still there.
Well I think it is my bad luck... But I really want to know what happend (huge power surge?) and if I can build a protection of some kind (loudspeaker delay/protection).
R.
I think my Beta 12LTA is fine the tweeters do have a hiss and rattle that where not present earlier swapping the caps helped quite a bit but the noise is still there.
Well I think it is my bad luck... But I really want to know what happend (huge power surge?) and if I can build a protection of some kind (loudspeaker delay/protection).
R.
Thanks. I did read the instructions carefully before I started the process!It depends on how far off the target you are to some extent, different supply voltages can make the factory setting not that close so you might need to turn more.
If you carefully read the instructions it tells you which way to turn the trimmers to have the effect you want. There is usually only one direction on one trimmer that will have the overall effect you want.
View attachment 602290
E.g. If you want increase bias and decrease DC offset turn TR2 clockwise
It is a balancing act and can be quite frustrating unless you have three meters to watch at the same time.
I found with only two it was easier to leave one connected to measure overall current as an ammeter and then use the leads of the other to check between the vas and dc settings.
When I first started I tried to set one parameter how I wanted and then get the other but it doesn't work like that as the parameters are interactive
It went much faster when I actually read the instructions more closely as I then knew which way to turn the trimmers to get what I wanted 😉
Should I be able to get the settings to hold steady at the desired values? My DC offset for example is constantly changing within a range of about 20mV. Is that normal?
No I don't think that is normal.
Have you let the heatsinks warm up to temperature properly before trying this? This could take up to half an hour.
Are your voltage rails from the power supply stable?
Have you got the meter probes firmly attached to the points you are measuring?
I hope the above doesn't sound like sucking eggs but I would be surprised if you had a faulty module as they are all tested before they are shipped.
If you have a picture of your test setup it might help to see how you are doing it otherwise it is hard to help from a distance.
Hypex smps require some time to discharge before turned on back again.
Did you turned off and then on immediately ?
Hi There 🙂 spring coming soon, time for the big bears to wake up!
LC, whats new ? a huge bunch of FO M available soon ? whats the difference ? I understand they have a minor change on what is called the front end. Does this mean they can suppor 85V SMPS ? I m asking because I plan to configure a FO as a Current amplifier (mixed voltage/current depending on frequency) for a minimum 12 ohms impédance so I need juice but not big power. Thankx
LC, whats new ? a huge bunch of FO M available soon ? whats the difference ? I understand they have a minor change on what is called the front end. Does this mean they can suppor 85V SMPS ? I m asking because I plan to configure a FO as a Current amplifier (mixed voltage/current depending on frequency) for a minimum 12 ohms impédance so I need juice but not big power. Thankx
Hello guys, has anyone tried First One M model with Audio Physic Virgo or Scorpio speakers? Or any suggestions which speakers are good with this amp? AUDIO PHYSIC, PMC, PROAC, SPENDOR, DALI or any other suggestion?
FO M's front-end will be the same as in FO L, same sound signature-quality.
Yes, FO M could be configured to work on +/-85 V, only few parts to be changed.
200 FO M modules currently in production. 😉
Of course it will work with anything you give it to it, but i was asking which of the soeakers best First one the best or better?
Hi Nerukas,
This is a strange question... Provided an amp is built correctly and assuming he can cope with the load attached to it, it can cope well with any kind of loudspeakers.
Perhaps you are refering to colouration, say avoiding a bright amp with bright speakers, but then the FO seems to be very neutral and I would rather play with source or LS rather then hope for an amp to correct something I dislike. But that's me...
So given you can use pretty any kind of LS, we are back to the basic electric compatibility. If you look at the thread, you will see that there are 3 variants of the FO 1.4 (S, M, L) and these correspond to different power levels. So indeed, depending on your LS caracteristics (but also to your room, listening distance and max level of listening) you may want to chose a S, or M, or L variant.
Of course, the opposit could also be true, that is given a variant (say M with its max current on impulses and average max power capabilities), and given all the room and listening parameters, you could decide what max carateristics your LS should have to suit your needs.
To calculate that is not difficult, quite a few info on internet and litterature to guide you with what power or current is needed given LS caracteristics (real impedance, efficiency...) and listening rooms.
I hope this helps
Claude
This is a strange question... Provided an amp is built correctly and assuming he can cope with the load attached to it, it can cope well with any kind of loudspeakers.
Perhaps you are refering to colouration, say avoiding a bright amp with bright speakers, but then the FO seems to be very neutral and I would rather play with source or LS rather then hope for an amp to correct something I dislike. But that's me...
So given you can use pretty any kind of LS, we are back to the basic electric compatibility. If you look at the thread, you will see that there are 3 variants of the FO 1.4 (S, M, L) and these correspond to different power levels. So indeed, depending on your LS caracteristics (but also to your room, listening distance and max level of listening) you may want to chose a S, or M, or L variant.
Of course, the opposit could also be true, that is given a variant (say M with its max current on impulses and average max power capabilities), and given all the room and listening parameters, you could decide what max carateristics your LS should have to suit your needs.
To calculate that is not difficult, quite a few info on internet and litterature to guide you with what power or current is needed given LS caracteristics (real impedance, efficiency...) and listening rooms.
I hope this helps
Claude
