Leikis thanks for the insight on the 500L. I do have regular speakers with a passive crossover. It sounds like it would be worth waiting for the 500L module. Can I assume that the 500L represents 250 per channel? Did I see the board will be available next month (Sept)? Thanks again for your kind help and insights. They have been very valuable to me. Greg
Eriend,
Thank you for your comment it is very helpful. It is difficult to make a decision without hearing the different amp modules. I have to trust and depend on my fellow DIY Audio members who have the same passion to guide me in the right direction. So thank you for being upfront with me.
I have been communicating with Anthony (@ Holton Audio) for over 3 years wanting to buy one his amp modules but could not justify pulling the trigger to purchase one of his amps. Now I have the funds and wanted ensure I was getting the best module. Now I know based on your and Laikis experience with Holton which direction I will take. I feel like burden has been lifted off my shoulders. Again, thanks for being straight forward with me.
The best to you Friend.
Taipan
Thank you for your comment it is very helpful. It is difficult to make a decision without hearing the different amp modules. I have to trust and depend on my fellow DIY Audio members who have the same passion to guide me in the right direction. So thank you for being upfront with me.
I have been communicating with Anthony (@ Holton Audio) for over 3 years wanting to buy one his amp modules but could not justify pulling the trigger to purchase one of his amps. Now I have the funds and wanted ensure I was getting the best module. Now I know based on your and Laikis experience with Holton which direction I will take. I feel like burden has been lifted off my shoulders. Again, thanks for being straight forward with me.
The best to you Friend.
Taipan
Why not wait until I finnish the L Version ? Maybe it will be better than Holton.
The amps are as good as their PS' allows them to be...
I am waiting for time for adding the second SMPS to the F.O. for dual-mono conf. AND for adding capacitance to each Hypex supply.
In fact, with my last amp build I didn't even listen to the stock connex SMPS and went straight to adding extra 10mF to it.
I recommend buying good caps and going this way to enjoy the many benefits the SMPS' have to offer, PLUS good sound.
Cheers,
M.
Just to remind that each SMPS has a maximum capacitance they can handle outside the SMPS board. I have damaged an Hypex smps400 with 15mF but it took about 2-3 months and one trace with several parts were broken. I suppose that it was during start-up of the amp while electricity lost and then recovered...?......
In fact, with my last amp build I didn't even listen to the stock connex SMPS and went straight to adding extra 10mF to it.
I recommend buying good caps and going this way to enjoy the many benefits the SMPS' have to offer, PLUS good sound.
Cheers,
M.
You can check with SMPS manufacturer and they will confirm about the max capacitance. However, they may tell you a small value to be on the safe side....
Fab
The amps are as good as their PS' allows them to be...
I am waiting for time for adding the second SMPS to the F.O. for dual-mono conf. AND for adding capacitance to each Hypex supply.
In fact, with my last amp build I didn't even listen to the stock connex SMPS and went straight to adding extra 10mF to it.
I recommend buying good caps and going this way to enjoy the many benefits the SMPS' have to offer, PLUS good sound.
Cheers,
M.
I do not believe in SMPS. There will never be one for me. And it is not only a question about PSU. Number of Mosfets matters as well. I believe in L version.
I was (am) reluctant but they have too many good features to totally neglect them, so I decided to try them and then study them (in that order, he, he) and try to overcome their faults with clever tricks.
That said, I will build another F.O. with linear supply to compare both and see if I wasted my money on the Hypex SMPS...I hope not.
Cheers,
M.
That seems an apple to orange comparison to me since very difficult to select a "comparable" linear supply to an SMPS....
At least, if you describe precisely both specific supply arrangements then we can only conclude on this specific test.
Fab
Erlend, I would be curious to know what the "problems" where. Was it power output, or where there other aspects to the sound, like texture, dynamics, soundstage, etc that You heard? I am guessing the First One M was too small to drive the system for that room?
Just got my modules and tested one of them with a +/- 63 V psu.
Works well, but when I check VAS idle it reads 380 mV instead of 180 mV .
DC out is near 0V. And heatsink temperature was about right..
Havent tested the other module yet.
Should I just adjust tr 1 and 2 until it reads 180 mV and 0 DC volts out?
Works well, but when I check VAS idle it reads 380 mV instead of 180 mV .
DC out is near 0V. And heatsink temperature was about right..
Havent tested the other module yet.
Should I just adjust tr 1 and 2 until it reads 180 mV and 0 DC volts out?
Adequate heatsink?
Hi guys
Just picked up a non-functional Hafler P225 (DH220 equivalent) and would like to repurpose it for a FirstOne M build. I can't find any details about the thermal resistance of the aluminum heatsinks online and am curious if you think it will work.
Here's an example of what the Hafler enclosure looks like:
Heatsink dimensions:
Depth - 237 mm
Height - 115 mm
Mounting plate thickness - 5mm
Fin size - 51mm x 2mm thick
The height appears to fall midway between a 2U (89mm) and 3U (133mm) chassis size. I plan on using a portable bandsaw to remove both of the existing mosfet mounting plates, to allow the FO modules to be mounted in the center of the heatsink.
Speakers are an 8 ohm load with most listening at a moderate level.
It certainly looks like it will work or at least be pretty darn close. Worst case scenario I suppose the bias can be lowered until everything is relocated to a proper enclosure.
Thanks for any insight you can offer on this. It's much appreciated.
-Sten
Hi guys
Just picked up a non-functional Hafler P225 (DH220 equivalent) and would like to repurpose it for a FirstOne M build. I can't find any details about the thermal resistance of the aluminum heatsinks online and am curious if you think it will work.
Here's an example of what the Hafler enclosure looks like:
Heatsink dimensions:
Depth - 237 mm
Height - 115 mm
Mounting plate thickness - 5mm
Fin size - 51mm x 2mm thick
The height appears to fall midway between a 2U (89mm) and 3U (133mm) chassis size. I plan on using a portable bandsaw to remove both of the existing mosfet mounting plates, to allow the FO modules to be mounted in the center of the heatsink.
Speakers are an 8 ohm load with most listening at a moderate level.
It certainly looks like it will work or at least be pretty darn close. Worst case scenario I suppose the bias can be lowered until everything is relocated to a proper enclosure.
Thanks for any insight you can offer on this. It's much appreciated.
-Sten
