Those Daytons will have a much lower F3 than the OS's. Plus, compare the cone area multiplied by the xmax for one 175 (that'll be the volume of air being displaced) vs the same x 2 for the HiVi's and the Dayton still comes out on top.
In simple terms, high frequencies are more directional than low frequencies. So when you are off angle to the drivers the bass will always be louder. Maybe try dropping the bass knob when you're listening like that and/or adding a little treble.
Reduce the box volume? That's actually tough for me to answer. I would probably be more interested in getting the tuning exactly the way I liked it and then decide whether or not that tuning will play loud enough for me. I don't think WinISD shows you the cone excursion. Unibox shows that, port air speed (re port 'chuffing') and the effects of different densities of stuffing. You should try that and see for yourself what happens with different alignments.
To reduce cone travel, a smaller box, a higher tuning and more stuffing all have an effect, but with this driver, I'm not really seeing a really significant difference even if you half your present box volume, and you don't really want to tune it too high because it starts peaking the response excessively. There's definitely some difference but it's not as significant as adding a 2nd woofer. I say live with them for a while. See exactly how loud you really need them and whether they're up to the task. If you want to play with the port tuning I can suggest a methodology for trying different things out. But I'm pretty impressed with the LF these things sound like they're putting out - with the walls shaking, it doesn't sound like you have any need for a subwoofer. Poor Phoenix.......
In simple terms, high frequencies are more directional than low frequencies. So when you are off angle to the drivers the bass will always be louder. Maybe try dropping the bass knob when you're listening like that and/or adding a little treble.
Reduce the box volume? That's actually tough for me to answer. I would probably be more interested in getting the tuning exactly the way I liked it and then decide whether or not that tuning will play loud enough for me. I don't think WinISD shows you the cone excursion. Unibox shows that, port air speed (re port 'chuffing') and the effects of different densities of stuffing. You should try that and see for yourself what happens with different alignments.
To reduce cone travel, a smaller box, a higher tuning and more stuffing all have an effect, but with this driver, I'm not really seeing a really significant difference even if you half your present box volume, and you don't really want to tune it too high because it starts peaking the response excessively. There's definitely some difference but it's not as significant as adding a 2nd woofer. I say live with them for a while. See exactly how loud you really need them and whether they're up to the task. If you want to play with the port tuning I can suggest a methodology for trying different things out. But I'm pretty impressed with the LF these things sound like they're putting out - with the walls shaking, it doesn't sound like you have any need for a subwoofer. Poor Phoenix.......
I have winisd pro on my computer. It crashes on exit on my vista system (the worst ever OS) and I have to kill it with task manger so I never played with it. I just played with it now and yes I think I could learn a lot more from it. Thanks. I didn't know it did all that other stuff.
I will and can live with these speakers for a while, possibly forever. Other than maybe tweaking the resistors a little and maybe tweak things based on what I might learn from winisd pro, I'll just leave well enough alone and maybe someday add a second DA175 just for fun. They are plenty loud and quite fine as is.
However. I think I have an itch. I want to do it a again. Build another system with better stuff just for fun. I'm thinking bass drivers in the $50 to $100 range and tweeters in the $25 to $50 range. Even though I've learned a lot I still would not know how to pick them out. And then I cant have jReaves designing crossovers for me for rest of my life. What do you use to design and model crossovers? I'm open for suggestions on drivers for a second project.
Poor Phoenix had 4 boiled jumbo shrimp last night to eat. Rotten cat eats better than me sometimes.
Tony
Next time serve with cocktail sauce 😀
Give winISD another try, it's a good basic simulator. But there is also lots of free software that works well too. This is your first outing, there is alot more to consider when you really try for seriously good sound. simply adding another woofer to make that a 2.5way takes some special considerations. 3 ways can appear to be nearly impossible due to how everything interacts with everything else leaving you running in circles. Phoenix will thoroughly enjoy this aspect 😉
Best suggestion is to start reading these forums, follow along what others have done. Just follow along, big subject covering many disciplines
Give winISD another try, it's a good basic simulator. But there is also lots of free software that works well too. This is your first outing, there is alot more to consider when you really try for seriously good sound. simply adding another woofer to make that a 2.5way takes some special considerations. 3 ways can appear to be nearly impossible due to how everything interacts with everything else leaving you running in circles. Phoenix will thoroughly enjoy this aspect 😉
Best suggestion is to start reading these forums, follow along what others have done. Just follow along, big subject covering many disciplines
I do have an Excel CD from the W2000 to XP era. I doubt it will run on "Vicious" oops I mean "Vista". I have a Visual Basic 6 CD from the same era and I have to jump through hoops to get it to work on Vista. Amazing that Microsoft would "break" one of their better products just to shove a new OS down your throat. I'll try the Excel CD and let you know if it works.
Phoenix don't like cocktail sauce. The rotten no good b*stard only eats the meaty part of the shrimp and refuses to eat the tail section.
I have been reading these forum and no matter what I read it just seems more and more complex. As you say it covers many disciplines but also many personal disciplines as well. Its fascinating.
Is this how it starts? You build one speaker system, then want to build another and before you know it you got speakers systems and speaker parts everywhere? Is it some kind of sickness or addiction? Should I bail out now before its too late?
Yikes. Phoenix voiced his displeasure, my wife encouraged me, and now jReaves tells me to run like hell. I'm suicidal 😀
You were doomed the moment you ordered parts. Before that you were still safe on the other side! 😱
Is this part of your New Years resolution? 😀
Is this part of your New Years resolution? 😀
You guys dragged me from the other side and made me buy parts and drivers. I used to be sane. I think 😕
Anyway I'm having trouble understanding crossovers but specifically mine. Jreaves said its a 2.5K crossover point. For the LP with 1.5mH and 6.8 uF I calculate 1.575K. For the HP with 0.3 mH and 6.8uF I calculate 3.523K. What am I missing or doing wrong? Or is the XO point the midpoint of those two numbers?????
Tony
Anyway I'm having trouble understanding crossovers but specifically mine. Jreaves said its a 2.5K crossover point. For the LP with 1.5mH and 6.8 uF I calculate 1.575K. For the HP with 0.3 mH and 6.8uF I calculate 3.523K. What am I missing or doing wrong? Or is the XO point the midpoint of those two numbers?????
Tony
It's "typical." 😀 Wise wife. 🙂 You talk so much... 😉
There's no need.*
Take as an example two amps.
12 years old Denon PMA 735-R, works like a charm, studio type amp, bass set to "0" or better in the middle =0 between + and -.
1 year old, new Pioneer A-20, bad amp with good full range but very bad low frequency curve with too much bass, maybe for/by the crazy nuts of the MP3 generation, who knows? Bass is set to the lower "-" and is bad as hell like if "Loudness" was on and is not (has a red LED that gets bright). Obvious to say that I hate loudness and subs now that I don't ever gonna use them (*there's no need).
Speakers are BR vintage Mordaunt-Short MS 5.30.
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