Although I used Sonic Frontieers attenuator here, any other switching unit can be used as well. That thing works pretty well and is better than a regular pot. I used combination of tantalum/Vishay for fixed series resistance (5k total) and switching Holcos to ground. The signal path is as short as it can possibly be
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Those are Holcos (1/8W, old production). I had those attenuators on sale http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3279&highlight= but since nobody showed any interest, I decided to try them in this application. Work surprisingly good, and of course 2 decks are not used at all
One might use them in parallel for 22.5K impedance, which could be perfect for GC input. I use them as 50K version, as I have additional 22k Vishay at amp's input anyway.
One might use them in parallel for 22.5K impedance, which could be perfect for GC input. I use them as 50K version, as I have additional 22k Vishay at amp's input anyway.
Hey Peter, I've a request and a question.
Do you have a high resolution pic of the front of the amp? I'd like to use it as my desktop wallpaper if you don't mind (yes, i like it that much .. and i'm getting bored of the same old car-nature-abstract wallpaper routine).
And the question - what do you use to do labeling on the aluminum?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=253185#post253185 in that post, you have the inputs/outputs and the switches labelled - i'd like to know how you got them looking nice like that
Thanks
Do you have a high resolution pic of the front of the amp? I'd like to use it as my desktop wallpaper if you don't mind (yes, i like it that much .. and i'm getting bored of the same old car-nature-abstract wallpaper routine).
And the question - what do you use to do labeling on the aluminum?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=253185#post253185 in that post, you have the inputs/outputs and the switches labelled - i'd like to know how you got them looking nice like that
Thanks
If it's a prototype, I'm using dry transfer method. You can get that stuff in graphis supplies stores and the ones I'm using are from Letratype. It is pretty durable and I have equipment which is 20 years old and the lettering is still in perfect condition.
In production I use silk screening. We tried laser etching as well, but some burning of anodising occured. We will be testing it on next batch of panels.
I'll send you a pic.
In production I use silk screening. We tried laser etching as well, but some burning of anodising occured. We will be testing it on next batch of panels.
I'll send you a pic.
I was suppose to ask you same question some time ago Peter.
There was a volume control of yours somewhere on this forum.
It had those many strips and attenuation counting.
When you do these kind of stickers do you stick all of it with hands?
Or some machine does it?
Also using this dry technique one might spray it with lacquer to get it more durable.
Can you say a bit more about this dry technique?
Sorry ,it might be language barrier ,but what exactly do you buy at this store to make it.
You probably use computer,yes?
Bartek
There was a volume control of yours somewhere on this forum.
It had those many strips and attenuation counting.
When you do these kind of stickers do you stick all of it with hands?
Or some machine does it?
Also using this dry technique one might spray it with lacquer to get it more durable.
Can you say a bit more about this dry technique?
Sorry ,it might be language barrier ,but what exactly do you buy at this store to make it.
You probably use computer,yes?
Bartek
The picture explains it the best. Whenever I was traveling, I was always looking for nice lettering that could be used on equipment. It was pretty hard to find small characters that present proffesional look. Most of that stuff comes from Europe. Of course it was 15 years ago, when computers were not a s popular and useful as today. Still, I find it sometimes much more convenient and fast to use that technique than anything else. I don't like using laquer, as it takes away the natural look of brushed aluminum. My olderr equipment wasn't even anodozed and still looks good.
Here's a link to more recent technology: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25737&highlight=
Here's a link to more recent technology: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25737&highlight=
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In case you didn't see it yet, this is what can be done with transfer lettering by hand. It is my first preamp, I've built 20 years ago (based on Pioneer circuitry). The width was popular at that time 300mm.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=144404#post144404
It is my first preamp, I've built 20 years ago (based on Pioneer circuitry). The width was popular at that time 300mm.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=144404#post144404
i haven't tried mine yet.
(i hope they are ok)
i've just ordered a pair of mono seidens - stereo was sold out.
i'm shure that the elma is very fine but i just had to have the seiden....know what i mean
friends of mine have used the s&b copper for a few years now, and we have done several listening tests.....if you have the right combination of cd and poweramp NOTHING beats it.
i look forward to put it in my upcomming new system.
kps20i into the silver s&b driving 6 x one chip lm3886 regulated monoblocks fully balanced all the way......
not shure when it plays - there might be a problem with my cdplayer, i'll find out tomorrow. i will feed the kps20i with a p300 powerplant and if it doesn't spin i have a problem.......
(i hope they are ok)
i've just ordered a pair of mono seidens - stereo was sold out.
i'm shure that the elma is very fine but i just had to have the seiden....know what i mean
friends of mine have used the s&b copper for a few years now, and we have done several listening tests.....if you have the right combination of cd and poweramp NOTHING beats it.
i look forward to put it in my upcomming new system.
kps20i into the silver s&b driving 6 x one chip lm3886 regulated monoblocks fully balanced all the way......
not shure when it plays - there might be a problem with my cdplayer, i'll find out tomorrow. i will feed the kps20i with a p300 powerplant and if it doesn't spin i have a problem.......
Yes, the right combination is the key. I found it especially good with chip amps and after tried that, it's hard to imagine not to use it with those amps. TVC seems also like a great much to passive I/V stage on TDA1543 DAC.
I wonder how much silver would be better
So, what's so special about those Seiden switches? They don't look any better than Elma. And Elma works pretty well (no noise and nice feel)
I wonder how much silver would be better
So, what's so special about those Seiden switches? They don't look any better than Elma. And Elma works pretty well (no noise and nice feel)
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