I can confirm too. I couldn't find of tests of AB resistors used in series position at uncle_leon's excellent webside. I am using L-pad 75R 1/2Watt AB + 230R AudioNote tantallum (300R). I found this "hybrid" very musical.
Hi Tubo,
Have you ever tried Allen Bradley Carbon Comp Resistors?
Cheap and very good
Regards,
Rudy
I was thinking of giving the 5 volt chip a shot..
So first the Dexa LM 7812 pre reg followed bij the Teddy Pardo 5 volt super reg (so 7 for the Teddy to operate (operating range 3 - 10 V )
BTW not to contradict your correct remark but I have been using the ALWSR on the motors for 5 years now...and they rate 700mA...maybe in the end you can squeeze 1A or so out of them ...
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Jarek, rosin is weird. If the weather gets too hot or too moist it can get sticky and leave residue on the machine or the CDs.
Erik, I plan on sanding and finishing the pucks with Tru Oil, and I hope the nice surface will do the trick. BTW 40 grid is a bit coarse... You proposed it to make the surface a bit rough? I don t think that will work with mahogany. It is very dry and I think that it needs more surface touching the CD to make it work.
I think wenge, maple or ebony will be a better choice for the puck.
Anyway, it was just a test
Yepp I thought maybe with a very rough surface instead of smooth....but I must admit after the ebony puck I received from Fran I had no worries......
At various phases the current I measured was
77mA when idle
280mA
600mA
800mA
From Tibi's notes, around 150mA is the digital part at playback.
Well it's not like it needs constant full current all the time, so I guess it would work. The thing is how transients would affect the psu with voltage drops especially with no output capacitor to help.
Of course that is just theory... just a thought to point out that there might be possibility for further improvement. I wonder if the dexa would drive a power transistor with the same low noise etc.
I haven't tried it yet. I've had no time to got to a used cd shop or burn 2 identical cd's yet. It's currently on my to do list.
Thanks for the response. I'm now using 50-75 ohm pi-pad as recommended by Uncle_leon. I think im using shinkoh tantalum on series side and caddocks on shunt side. I like it a lot but im waiting for uncle_leon to get back to building his resistors as I would like to try those.
I made a puck out of ebony today... Damn I love that wood... So nice to work with and so beautiful...
40mm x 10mm dimensions
Unfortunately I cannot make 6mm dowels yet, so I am still using the metal axis. I hope I ll find the proper tubing tomorrow...
I really love how the puck sounds. It still slips a bit, so I think there is some room for improvement. Hopefully I will manage to find some Tru Oil too tomorrow... Perhaps some colophony too
40mm x 10mm dimensions
Unfortunately I cannot make 6mm dowels yet, so I am still using the metal axis. I hope I ll find the proper tubing tomorrow...
I really love how the puck sounds. It still slips a bit, so I think there is some room for improvement. Hopefully I will manage to find some Tru Oil too tomorrow... Perhaps some colophony too
Attachments
Hahah, spider web is weird - rosin is really quite normal in comparison
I wouldn't worry about any sticky residue; spider silk also leaves a residue on CDs, but it's very slight and does not seem to have any effect (other than helping the disc stick better).
Now we are talking...she is a thing of beauty ..
She
Love that you consider her a female
Jarek so true about the web spider.
I just got some black Pirastro rosin. Black rosin is harder so it should not create a prob.
I ll post my impressions later today.
I also got some tubing to cut the axis, but I could not find the proper diameter. It will require some manual sanding...
hey guys,
I found this Assembled Resistor Replacer
Im thinking of implementing this for the spdif output resistors. I've sent an inquiry to Uriah if this is doable. Since this needs a power supply, i'm not sure if it will have a detrimental effect on the spdif signal.
Any thoughts about this?
I found this Assembled Resistor Replacer
Im thinking of implementing this for the spdif output resistors. I've sent an inquiry to Uriah if this is doable. Since this needs a power supply, i'm not sure if it will have a detrimental effect on the spdif signal.
Any thoughts about this?
Dowel trial was a success
Here is the puck with the ebony dowel installed, sanded to 400 grit and finished with tru-oil. On the left you can see my diy tool that I used to cut the dowel
Construction-wise, there are some points that I have to fix. Basically in the symmetry and balance in order to make it as perfect as possible. This is my proof of concept puck anyway. I will try to make a new one tomorrow trying to fix the issues I have with this one. Mainly, I sanded the dowel a bit too much making it a bit thin and it has some slack inside the mecha's turntable, which in turn results in some wobble. I also need to be a bit more careful with the curving depth of the cavity at the bottom.
And here is the bottom side. On the left you can see the black rosin.
Now further to the rosin thing...
I made a few tests with the rosin on the puck before started working on it.
The black rosin is very hard. Almost completely solid, and you have to rub it rather hardish to get it on the wood and on the turntable. It seems to work pretty nicely though. I applied some on the turntable too. I hit the door button with no disk and let the turntable rub itself on the surface of the rosin.
After that, even with no puck in place, the mecha could read the toc. No playback though without puck.
I bet that if I tried a softer rosin I could get some puckless action going on a'la Jarek's spider web.
Oh and the 400 grit sanding certainly helped a lot with the disk sliding. Some fast tests before the puck was finished showed some sliding only during stoping/breaking. I bet that now with the tru oil, plus some softer rosin, the puck will be rock stable.
Now to the interesting part. The rosin seemed to have had a significant impact on the sound. The attack I was missing after switching my DCB1 pot is almost back. It could be my new pots breaking in though... Certainly worth further exploring.
Here is the puck with the ebony dowel installed, sanded to 400 grit and finished with tru-oil. On the left you can see my diy tool that I used to cut the dowel
Construction-wise, there are some points that I have to fix. Basically in the symmetry and balance in order to make it as perfect as possible. This is my proof of concept puck anyway. I will try to make a new one tomorrow trying to fix the issues I have with this one. Mainly, I sanded the dowel a bit too much making it a bit thin and it has some slack inside the mecha's turntable, which in turn results in some wobble. I also need to be a bit more careful with the curving depth of the cavity at the bottom.
And here is the bottom side. On the left you can see the black rosin.
Now further to the rosin thing...
I made a few tests with the rosin on the puck before started working on it.
The black rosin is very hard. Almost completely solid, and you have to rub it rather hardish to get it on the wood and on the turntable. It seems to work pretty nicely though. I applied some on the turntable too. I hit the door button with no disk and let the turntable rub itself on the surface of the rosin.
After that, even with no puck in place, the mecha could read the toc. No playback though without puck.
I bet that if I tried a softer rosin I could get some puckless action going on a'la Jarek's spider web.
Oh and the 400 grit sanding certainly helped a lot with the disk sliding. Some fast tests before the puck was finished showed some sliding only during stoping/breaking. I bet that now with the tru oil, plus some softer rosin, the puck will be rock stable.
Now to the interesting part. The rosin seemed to have had a significant impact on the sound. The attack I was missing after switching my DCB1 pot is almost back. It could be my new pots breaking in though... Certainly worth further exploring.
