Puffin said:
Hi Puffin:
That's odd, are you sure your bench supply is not current limiting? I've had both my mechanisms and boards operate reliably at 7V or so.
The '31 and '32 both use 8V supplies stock. The concern with using a higher voltage is that you will increase the dissipation in the motor controller IC and the small power transistor used in the 5V regulator - this may not be an issue, but is something to be aware of.
Hi Johnm,
Interesting comment on C906, I am planning to try a BG PK 0.22uF cap here, however I will keep the stock one in case I don't like the replacement. The RCEZ32 uses a 0.22uF instead of the 0.1uF used in the RCEZ31.
I'm still puzzled by your crystal experience, I tried the ZTT and found it less to my liking than the Citizen that replaced it.
I plan to leave it alone until I have a few more hours on this mechanism. It is still very low hours. I have noticed that the chassis plays a big role in the overall sound. I currently have mine sitting on either Navcom Isolators or Vibrapods. Not sure which I prefer, but there are audible differences so packaging this thing right is going to be part of the deal. (I have the answer now - the Navcoms are better.)
shigCLONE
regard C906- with the Auricap- the music is smooth, bass is impressive but just does not sound right-How long does it take for the cap to burn in?
Initially with MTK 1837-the music was bright ,fast but the front to back sound-stage is reduced.
May be i have to go back to original cap?
the C906 cap can tune the sound that match your system and your taste of music
regard C906- with the Auricap- the music is smooth, bass is impressive but just does not sound right-How long does it take for the cap to burn in?
Initially with MTK 1837-the music was bright ,fast but the front to back sound-stage is reduced.
May be i have to go back to original cap?
the C906 cap can tune the sound that match your system and your taste of music
The attached Sanyo MCD-ZX600 Schematic uses the same ASP and Motor/Focus drive ICs but a different DSP because the µProcessor is on another board. It list the Pick-up as a DA11T3CN which I think is the Diode array on the SF-P101 mech.
And The JVC UX-5000 uses an Optima-150 mech and an AN8806 chip not the LA9242M
Hope this is of some interest
Regards
James
And The JVC UX-5000 uses an Optima-150 mech and an AN8806 chip not the LA9242M
Hope this is of some interest
Regards
James
kevinkr said:
I agree with johnm comments about C906 ... the original cap to me performs better in the aspects described earlier .
I also had a look at C931 which in the schematic is an elctrolytic and in realyty it "looks " like a little smd cap and non electrolytic .
Changed that for curiosity with an 0,47 instead of 0,33 . Cant report if it has decent effects of the overall sound . Also becouse I did lots of mods in this fiew days ( mainly the ones suggested on the pdf ) .
But it is a very good sound for now ...
It can't hurt any, so I say try it and see 
. I'm using 47uF Black Gate N there and am happy with the sound.
I was thinking about the original crystal, and Peter and Kevin's comments about the Citizen being an upgrade. I think the fact that my Black Gates were still burning in and sounding like **** made me - wrongly - critical of the Citizen crystal. Now that its all sounding nice I'll give it one more try. This time though I am going to install it directly onto pins 61 (X In) and 60 (X Out), on chip LC78601E.
Cheers,
- J
. I'm using 47uF Black Gate N there and am happy with the sound.I was thinking about the original crystal, and Peter and Kevin's comments about the Citizen being an upgrade. I think the fact that my Black Gates were still burning in and sounding like **** made me - wrongly - critical of the Citizen crystal. Now that its all sounding nice I'll give it one more try. This time though I am going to install it directly onto pins 61 (X In) and 60 (X Out), on chip LC78601E.
Cheers,
- J
johnm said:It can't hurt any, so I say try it and see
I was thinking about the original crystal, and Peter and Kevin's comments about the Citizen being an upgrade. I think the fact that my Black Gates were still burning in and sounding like **** made me - wrongly - critical of the Citizen crystal. Now that its all sounding nice I'll give it one more try. This time though I am going to install it directly onto pins 61 (X In) and 60 (X Out), on chip LC78601E.
Cheers,
- J
Based on what I've read about the BG's burn in I'm going to leave my transport powered up for a month before doing any real testing.
Regards,
Dan
My impression after a couple of days of listening is that I have gained a lot with the changes made, but have definitely lost some definition in the bass. I am planning to default back to the 1000uF originally used in a couple of key locations, these will be BG which I will mount on the bottom side of the board. I am also going to upgrade the 470uF at the output of the 5V regulator circuit.
Otherwise I'd have to say the improvement in swapping out those caps has been quite large.
dantwomey:
Burning in those caps is not a bad idea, leave the unit powered up, but don't leave it playing for days on end. I would not be the least bit surprised if this mechanism has a relatively low hour rating for service life. One of my former employers purchased a 500 hr rated mechanism ($2 each in 10K quantity) for use in one of their products, and small but significant numbers did fail in the field in the short time I was there after the product was released. IIRC that mechanism was made by Sanyo.
Otherwise I'd have to say the improvement in swapping out those caps has been quite large.
dantwomey:
Burning in those caps is not a bad idea, leave the unit powered up, but don't leave it playing for days on end. I would not be the least bit surprised if this mechanism has a relatively low hour rating for service life. One of my former employers purchased a 500 hr rated mechanism ($2 each in 10K quantity) for use in one of their products, and small but significant numbers did fail in the field in the short time I was there after the product was released. IIRC that mechanism was made by Sanyo.
All,
Thanks for all of the comments and postings on modifications. You are charting a course (or courses) for the rest of us. Is anyone at a point where they'd be willing to post a pseudo-prioritized listing of the mods? I tend to lose track with all the tweaking.
What I gathered so far is that ....
1. Power supply
2. ...
.
.
.
As you can see, I run out of steam quickly
Anyway, thanks again.
Ryan
Thanks for all of the comments and postings on modifications. You are charting a course (or courses) for the rest of us. Is anyone at a point where they'd be willing to post a pseudo-prioritized listing of the mods? I tend to lose track with all the tweaking.
What I gathered so far is that ....
1. Power supply
2. ...
.
.
.
As you can see, I run out of steam quickly
Anyway, thanks again.
Ryan
RKH said:
I did that a few pages back: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1489083#post1489083
My 'ancient' 1991 era PDM One Series 2 DAC is proving to be a fantastic performer, after treating it to a new set of 3 x 1500uF Panasonic FCs for the power supply. Even today it takes alot of beating. You can get them as cheap as £50 on ebay. Beautifully cast front panel, and casing. Its bitstream, but has REAL bite and incision, and killer bass when called for. Beautifully emotive midband as well. My Shigaclone DAC (which I'll hopefully start soon) is going to have a hard time besting it I think.
On a different note I've found an awsome digital interconnect - better than the last one I mentioned a few pages back - also from Maplin. It also fits onto the screw clamp BNC connectors, which I'm going to convert my DAC to accept for a true 75 ohm connection:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=34993&doy=28m4#overview
Incase the link doesn't work try searching for item no. N61AR
"Digital Coaxial Cable
Manufacturer: Shark
Although this coaxial cable is specifically designed for digital audio interconnects such as those used between DVD players and digital decoders for surround sound systems, it would be an excellent alternative to regular 75Ω coax where high signal quality is essential. The cable core is 0.5mm diameter OFC Copper plated in 80µin Silver. The Silver plating takes advantage of the phenomenon of skin effect . Skin effect describes the tendency of ultrahigh frequencies to be conducted on the surface of the wire as opposed to through the wire s total profile. The lower resistance of silver over copper ensures optimum transmission of theses ultrahigh frequencies. This core is covered with a PE insulation. The screen is Mylar/Aluminium covered with a tightly woven Pure Copper braid and the sheath is black PVC."
- John
On a different note I've found an awsome digital interconnect - better than the last one I mentioned a few pages back - also from Maplin. It also fits onto the screw clamp BNC connectors, which I'm going to convert my DAC to accept for a true 75 ohm connection:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=34993&doy=28m4#overview
Incase the link doesn't work try searching for item no. N61AR
"Digital Coaxial Cable
Manufacturer: Shark
Although this coaxial cable is specifically designed for digital audio interconnects such as those used between DVD players and digital decoders for surround sound systems, it would be an excellent alternative to regular 75Ω coax where high signal quality is essential. The cable core is 0.5mm diameter OFC Copper plated in 80µin Silver. The Silver plating takes advantage of the phenomenon of skin effect . Skin effect describes the tendency of ultrahigh frequencies to be conducted on the surface of the wire as opposed to through the wire s total profile. The lower resistance of silver over copper ensures optimum transmission of theses ultrahigh frequencies. This core is covered with a PE insulation. The screen is Mylar/Aluminium covered with a tightly woven Pure Copper braid and the sheath is black PVC."
- John
I'm using a dac based on the TPA modules discussed on another thread. I bought a receiver based on the Wolfson WM8804 spdif receiver, and built modified COD boards using the BB PCM1798 in mono mode. Power supplies are homebrew, loosely based on the Jung super regulator design. I/V is handled by a modified IVY (also bought as bare board) driving UTC A-21 transformers to convert balanced to unbalanced outputs - also breaks any potential ground loops between my digital and analog power lines.
I use this dac with my media server, Sony SACD player for some CD playback and of course my ShigaClone "Clone." It sounds significantly better than the heavily modded Zhaolu 2.5A it replaced..
I use this dac with my media server, Sony SACD player for some CD playback and of course my ShigaClone "Clone."
It sounds significantly better than the heavily modded Zhaolu 2.5A it replaced..
Kevin what digital output resistor combo are you currently using, and what is considered to be the 'industry standard'?
To sum up my gear, I'm using a 75ohm coax cable, terminated with 75 ohm BNC plugs on each end. The sending and receiving equipment will also have BNC sockets.
I'm currently thinking of using 390 / 91 ohm combo - does this sound about right?
Thanks,
- John.
P.S. I take it all back... that Citizen crystal is GREAT! Yep, couldn't resist the urge to try it again. This time - now the Black Gates have had over a week to settle - it sounds much better
To sum up my gear, I'm using a 75ohm coax cable, terminated with 75 ohm BNC plugs on each end. The sending and receiving equipment will also have BNC sockets.
I'm currently thinking of using 390 / 91 ohm combo - does this sound about right?
Thanks,
- John.
P.S. I take it all back... that Citizen crystal is GREAT! Yep, couldn't resist the urge to try it again. This time - now the Black Gates have had over a week to settle - it sounds much better
Pendergast said:
In the RCEZ31 the micro-controller is integrated into the DSP IC, the display segments it can drive, and the information it provides are very limited, changing to a different display will not change this fact. Drive levels and timing are appropriate for the oem display.
In the RCEZ32 the micro-controller is outboard and more information is provided including track time, as well as track number, however like the RCEZ31 the drive levels are specific to the display used and you would have to match up an appropriate LCD display. I will also say the RCEZ32 is much harder to implement, and the '31 likely to give really good results with considerably less effort.
What are your specific objections to the existing displays? You can change the LED color fairly easily if that helps. (And that's about it..)