No build guide other than this thread. Nothing needs to be raised off the board if you use the specified 5W KOA BPR non inductive vertical power resistors.
Good luck with your build. It’s a straightforward amp to assemble. Soldering the big inductor on will take a big iron. Preheating the board with a hot air tool will help to slow the solder.
Good luck with your build. It’s a straightforward amp to assemble. Soldering the big inductor on will take a big iron. Preheating the board with a hot air tool will help to slow the solder.
Thanks,
I did try and solder the inductor with a 5mm spade bit on a weller station, successfulish, now waiting on another 5mm bit to attack it with an iron on both sides! On the inductor I take it that the larger rectangle pins are for mounting only?
I did try and solder the inductor with a 5mm spade bit on a weller station, successfulish, now waiting on another 5mm bit to attack it with an iron on both sides! On the inductor I take it that the larger rectangle pins are for mounting only?
It’s been a while but I don’t recall extra mounting tabs in the inductor. The flat copper wire was so substantial. But if there are more than 2 solder contacts then the two not connected are extra.
If you look at the layout the two big rectangular slots are the main connections for the Wurth inductor. The smaller pins ones are for home wound round wire inductors (18-16ga 12-15 turns around 0.5in mandrel).
2 of the holes are not connected and for stabilization of wire wound shielded inductor.
If you look at the layout the two big rectangular slots are the main connections for the Wurth inductor. The smaller pins ones are for home wound round wire inductors (18-16ga 12-15 turns around 0.5in mandrel).
2 of the holes are not connected and for stabilization of wire wound shielded inductor.
Pretty much assembled the boards now just sorting the molex sockets from the premium bom, just to check the fly wires to the Fets I take it 18awg is OK as that's the limit on the pins linked for the Molex connectors?
Also what wire size for the connector going to V123?
Also what wire size for the connector going to V123?
18ga silicone jacket high strand count RC battery wires is what I use.
Double check to make sure you have correct pins on wires. And correct N or P MOSFET installed.
V123 is the temperature compensation transistor. Only small gauge needed. I typically use 28ga silicone wire.
The griddle amp thread has some nice pictures of the FH9HVX build in case you haven’t seen it. Here is how I mounted the MOSFETs and the tempcomp.
Double check to make sure you have correct pins on wires. And correct N or P MOSFET installed.
V123 is the temperature compensation transistor. Only small gauge needed. I typically use 28ga silicone wire.
The griddle amp thread has some nice pictures of the FH9HVX build in case you haven’t seen it. Here is how I mounted the MOSFETs and the tempcomp.
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Perfect thanks I've ordered some.
That's what I'm building a 'griddle' amp, just wondering looking at your pictures why are you doubling up on the ground wires?
That's what I'm building a 'griddle' amp, just wondering looking at your pictures why are you doubling up on the ground wires?
Trying to reduce impedance to chassis ground to reduce EMI noise. Probably not necessary.
Glad someone else is building a griddle amp. It sure is unique. One of my favorite amps because nothing else like it.
Glad someone else is building a griddle amp. It sure is unique. One of my favorite amps because nothing else like it.
Chrisr3521,
I skipped the crimping part for the flying leads with something like this off the shelf part - you can consider this if you already haven't ordered the crimping tools:
https://www.amazon.com/ZLKSKER-Extension-Desktop-Computer-Connector/dp/B08R36YKPB
Keep the male part and connect the wires on the opposite end to your MOSFETs; there are 4 wires, so you need to cut off the one. And for the remaining 3 wires, you will be left with 2 wires with the same color - so put some different color heat-shrink tubing on it so that you have the MOSFET pins connected properly.
I skipped the crimping part for the flying leads with something like this off the shelf part - you can consider this if you already haven't ordered the crimping tools:
https://www.amazon.com/ZLKSKER-Extension-Desktop-Computer-Connector/dp/B08R36YKPB
Keep the male part and connect the wires on the opposite end to your MOSFETs; there are 4 wires, so you need to cut off the one. And for the remaining 3 wires, you will be left with 2 wires with the same color - so put some different color heat-shrink tubing on it so that you have the MOSFET pins connected properly.
