I used L brackets from toroid.com, they are pretty heavy duty. Specifically the L-300's.
https://toroid.com/l-bracket-mount-toroidal-transformers/
https://toroid.com/l-bracket-mount-toroidal-transformers/
Good plan to put the amp boards on the sinks. However, it looks like one other option may be available to you. Thinking "inside the box," you might have enough vertical space to add the modushop riser panels on standoffs and put either the cap boards or amp boards on top. In yet another orientation, the riser panels could be mounted on their sides to the base plate and the amp boards attached to them.
Very interesting possibility von Ah. Thank you for pointing that out. It seems I have a number of options available.
https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/accessories/products/riser-panelsGood plan to put the amp boards on the sinks. However, it looks like one other option may be available to you. Thinking "inside the box," you might have enough vertical space to add the modushop riser panels on standoffs and put either the cap boards or amp boards on top. In yet another orientation, the riser panels could be mounted on their sides to the base plate and the amp boards attached to them.
Best,
Anand
Can you run this with +/- 57V rails? Was planning on sharing a PS with my Wolverine Build (not at the same time). 400VA Transformer with 40VAC secondaries.
I used a +/-53V SMPS with FH9HVX, I don't think a few more volts would be an issue.
Maybe X will chime in 😉
Maybe X will chime in 😉
Yes. See post 1197.Can you run this with +/- 57V rails? Was planning on sharing a PS with my Wolverine Build (not at the same time). 400VA Transformer with 40VAC secondaries.
Best,
Anand.
Thanks, Anand. You have a better memory than me. 🙂
Just make sure you use 60v electrolytic rail caps.
Just make sure you use 60v electrolytic rail caps.
I’m surprised no one has tried the griddle amp chassis for their FH9HVX. $10 heatsink is hard to beat.
I think a griddle amp with a neat plexiglass shield to protect the components would be slick.
Took the FH9HVX off the stand today and put in a tiny bit of work.
First, I put some shrink tube on the 2 input KSC1845's, not too bad on the module where those BJT's were at the top of the chassis, but the other board took some finesse with tweezers, I really didn't want to disassemble the whole chassis for that.
Secondly, I moved from 33mV to 44mV, it's only been a few minutes since I buttoned it up, too early to comment on the audible changes. However, the heat sinks are still barely warm. Idle temp is about 31C. Idle energy consumption per a TP-Link HS110 is ~58w on 120vac.
Took the FH9HVX off the stand today and put in a tiny bit of work.
First, I put some shrink tube on the 2 input KSC1845's, not too bad on the module where those BJT's were at the top of the chassis, but the other board took some finesse with tweezers, I really didn't want to disassemble the whole chassis for that.
Secondly, I moved from 33mV to 44mV, it's only been a few minutes since I buttoned it up, too early to comment on the audible changes. However, the heat sinks are still barely warm. Idle temp is about 31C. Idle energy consumption per a TP-Link HS110 is ~58w on 120vac.
Even a wooden crate with some vents can work. The amp doesn’t get that hot so should be easy.
Matching the input transistors can help reduce the dc offset. Although anything under +/-50mV is fine. Use a transistor tester to find a pair with very close Hfe. You’ll need about 20 to really get a good match. But it’s not going to make an audible improvement IMO.
Matching the input transistors can help reduce the dc offset. Although anything under +/-50mV is fine. Use a transistor tester to find a pair with very close Hfe. You’ll need about 20 to really get a good match. But it’s not going to make an audible improvement IMO.
Good point on the dc offset, I have a gigantic bag of shrink tube and figured why not since I am in there. Completely agree on the lack of audible improvement, I think I dropped the offset maybe 0.5mV, negligible to be honest.
This amp for me is a cut above the rest, I have so many audio projects on the horizon, but I do not foresee this amp changing from the daily driver. My next project is a 5 channel TPA3255 amp, the end goal being the 5ch TPA3255 to power my center, surrounds, and rears, and rotating between stereo amps for the fronts. I think the FH9HVX would be a fantastic contender for a 5-7 channel home theater amp, but I think that might require some different board layouts to fit a chassis.
This amp for me is a cut above the rest, I have so many audio projects on the horizon, but I do not foresee this amp changing from the daily driver. My next project is a 5 channel TPA3255 amp, the end goal being the 5ch TPA3255 to power my center, surrounds, and rears, and rotating between stereo amps for the fronts. I think the FH9HVX would be a fantastic contender for a 5-7 channel home theater amp, but I think that might require some different board layouts to fit a chassis.
Toroidy has arrived.
Enclosure is next…
Best,
Anand.
Toroidy has arrived.
And manufacturing date was just nine days ago! Amazing.
Also: congratulations!
This bouncing between amps is a very common symptom. The only cure I know is to build them all.I'm bouncing between FH9HVX and Wolverine amps.
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