Fasten seat belts. TDA8932 pessimistic review.

There won't be a reduction in volume, unless you're playing to within 6dB of the rails already. In which case reducing the supply will induce clipping.

Great! I'm not getting any clipping, running at very high volume.

So, no drawback that I can hear. Just less heat.

I am getting dropouts at 30 v, but no dropouts at 15v. That's another major benefit. (Again, this is BTL)

Why wouldn't you want that?
 
Last edited:
...TDA has dropouts at high volume...
The secret: The amount of power available to the speaker depends on NOT sending power to heat the amplifier's thermal interface instead.

High efficiency (almost no waste-heat):
32ohms, bridged amplifier
16ohms, unbridged amplifier

Medium efficiency (low waste-heat):
16 ohms, bridged amplifier
8 ohms, unbridged amplifier

Low efficiency (medium waste-heat):
8 ohms, bridged amplifier
4 ohms, unbridged amplifier

Worst efficiency (High Heat may cause dropouts):
4 ohms, bridged amplifier
2 ohms, unbridged amplifier
Problem: More power wasted for heat = less power for the speaker

So, you could make a more efficient setup, Or apply heatsink (to the bottom), Or choose an amplifier with at least double the capacity, such as:
...50-100W D Class...
And, there's more to it than just power.
...the only difference i can hear...
If you have hard-to-drive speakers, but you want to hear a difference, of better linearity, then shop for a Parallel amplifier (not BTL).
A parallel amplifier (not BTL) will have your speakers sounding just like the speaker designers knew something about audio amplifiers, even if they didn't.
 
High efficiency (almost no waste-heat):
32ohms, bridged amplifier
16ohms, unbridged amplifier
...

Many thx for efficiency notes! Where in your table would we put "parallel"? (you only have bridged)

i'm actually not overheating the TDA8932. I run it at 15v, BTL into 4 ohms. It stays only slightly warm to touch. There are no dropouts. SQ sounds same to me as 24v.

But if i push it to 35v, i get rhythmic dropouts on every audio peak. It's very precise. The same thing happens if i push the OEP50WX2 to it's max power supply. Precise dropouts on peaks.

So, it sounds to me like an over-voltage situation (not dropouts due to overheating).

choose an amplifier with at least double the capacity
ah, ok, so that will run cooler eh? Great!

If you have hard-to-drive speakers

"hard to drive"?

thx
 
Last edited:
So, it sounds to me like an over-voltage situation
volts times amps equal watts. Watts make heat somewhere, and it readily observable where that heat goes.
"hard to drive"?thx
Yes. Speaker designers hardly ever pay attention to audio amplifiers. 4 ohm speakers are hard to drive. 4 ohm speakers are twice as hard to drive for bridged amplifiers. Straining outputs compromise amplifier quality. Doubly strained outputs further compromise amplifier quality. Thus, comparing two bridged amplifiers driving 4 ohm speakers is incredibly uninformative. That's because they're both in pain.

Let's proceed forth to the goal of good audio, which overrides any concern over what parts we need to accomplish that. What is the square footage to fill (metric fine too)? Is the usage mostly TV/Movie or is the usage longer duration music listening? Those two parameters are necessary to determine the path forth. Maybe the 8932 or its bigger brothers can do it. Maybe it will be something different. But, we should do it on purpose.
 
are there any tips for wiring these for stereo.
i wired mine up split power and ground, split left/right audio and ground to the 2 amps, but get a high pitched wine. it still noticable through the music when close to the speakers.

if i power the 2 amps from 2 power supplies they are silent, and sound great.
 
You'll most likely want to disconnect the -ve input from the 0V power on one of the modules and connect it to the ground point of the -ve input on the other module. Then use that common 0V ground point as the shield connection to your input RCAs.

I am here assuming you're using one of the el-cheapo TDA8932 modules from Taobao/Aliexpress as you don't say which particular one you're having problems with.
 
I can only suggest transformer isolating the inputs then as the next step forward.
Problematically, I'm absolutely certain that you're even more clever than that. Not a downvote at all, but merely a suggestion not to throw too many transformers because they do weigh a bit. There is just a slight chance of fix at wrong locale which installs a shortfall that impedes further progress most inconveniently. I would always like to skip Plan B. Yet, I'm really curious what would be Plan C? The thing is that even though transformers are glorious devices, I'm so curious as to what you would use for an alternative.