I got the values by following the instructions from Zen Mod is post #3318:
P1 - one leg of R9 and wherever you can touch GND easily; DMM will tell you which side of R9 is proper one (if you see 10K+ , take other leg of R9)P2 - one leg of R10 and wherever you can touch neg rail easily; DMM will tell you which side of R10 is proper one (if you see 10K+, take other leg of R10)
I mean that P1 was too open and let two much current thru that fried R4 and Q3.
thanks
P1 - one leg of R9 and wherever you can touch GND easily; DMM will tell you which side of R9 is proper one (if you see 10K+ , take other leg of R9)P2 - one leg of R10 and wherever you can touch neg rail easily; DMM will tell you which side of R10 is proper one (if you see 10K+, take other leg of R10)
I mean that P1 was too open and let two much current thru that fried R4 and Q3.
thanks
That’s exactly what I was thinking. So Chiptech’s values are comfortably too high. My worry is he may roast Q4 again and the feedback resistor with the pot set at 1000-2000 ohms.
Best,
Anand.
Best,
Anand.
I'm not even calculating, as I would start from Idon'tcarewheretrimpotsare, using Variac
for Boyz without mileage, starting from 0 Ohms is safe step
not fastest, but safest
how he got these wakoo figures from my explanation, I don't know
with 1Ksomething, gates shouldn't be open yet, but procedure is everything in cases like this
for Boyz without mileage, starting from 0 Ohms is safe step
not fastest, but safest
how he got these wakoo figures from my explanation, I don't know
with 1Ksomething, gates shouldn't be open yet, but procedure is everything in cases like this
I'm expecting setting them both to ~0 Ohms , confirmed with ohmmeter
with 1Ksomething, gates shouldn't be open yet, but procedure is everything in cases like this
Completely agree! Thanks 😀
Best,
Anand
On a construction note how have people attached their snubber circuits to the transformers secondaries?
On a construction note how have people attached their snubber circuits to the transformers secondaries?
Chris,
I see you asked the same question here:
diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide
So I take it that this is with regards to diyaudio power supply board (important to clarify because this is the F6 build guide thread, and the F6 design itself uses a transformer with a phase splitting duty, so nobody gets confused which secondary we are talking about) 🙂
I've answered your question in the diy power supply guide build thread linked above.
Best,
Anand.
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Poseidonsvoice , you did not get it , snubbers are for the power supply's trafo's secondary's
and what ever you think about , it's a great idea from Mark Johnson 😉
try it , before having a statement on it , as you know statement suck's if they are not base on fact 😀
.
and what ever you think about , it's a great idea from Mark Johnson 😉
try it , before having a statement on it , as you know statement suck's if they are not base on fact 😀
.
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I'm not even calculating, as I would start from Idon'tcarewheretrimpotsare, using Variac
for Boyz without mileage, starting from 0 Ohms is safe step
not fastest, but safest
how he got these wakoo figures from my explanation, I don't know
with 1Ksomething, gates shouldn't be open yet, but procedure is everything in cases like this
Ok. It's clear I don't know what I'm doing here with the trimmer pots. The measurements I got were with the system turned off. Is that correct? If so, should I go back and set the trimmers as low as they will go?
I have a Variac which I'm happy to have a reason to deploy.
Thanks.
yes. trimpots set to 0 Ohms, as I explained
then, if everything is assembled properly, with two voltmeters connected per 6L6 first post, start amplifier via Variac from 0 to full mains voltage, observing Iq and DC Offset
then, simply proceed with setting procedure (mentioned post)
simple as that
work with one channel connected to PSU at a time, if you feel safer that way, insert temporary F2A5 fuses in both rails
then, if everything is assembled properly, with two voltmeters connected per 6L6 first post, start amplifier via Variac from 0 to full mains voltage, observing Iq and DC Offset
then, simply proceed with setting procedure (mentioned post)
simple as that
work with one channel connected to PSU at a time, if you feel safer that way, insert temporary F2A5 fuses in both rails
Poseidonsvoice , you did not get it , snubbers are for the power supply's trafo's secondary's
and what ever you think about , it's a great idea from Mark Johnson 😉
try it , before having a statement on it , as you know statement suck's if they are not base on fact 😀
.
Yes, I know it’s on the power supply secondaries! That’s why I said what I said in the PS thread and I have read MJ’s response. I am not disagreeing but I have no experience with it.
What I was saying was that the question can be misunderstood if asked on THIS thread, because THIS thread is about the F6 amplifier (see my previous reply).
I am not as myopic as you seem to infer.
But next time I build the PS, I’ll populate the snubbers and see for myself.
Best,
Anand.
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diyAudio Kit and Zener diods
Hi everybody,
I received on monday the F6 kit and I am a little bit lost
as there are not any paper instructions.
The kit contains 8 zeners, 4x5.1v and 4x6.0v
I don't know what to do... do I need to change some resistors? which zeners to use? 5.1 or 6.0v?
Many thanks for your feedback.
Hi everybody,
I received on monday the F6 kit and I am a little bit lost

The kit contains 8 zeners, 4x5.1v and 4x6.0v
I don't know what to do... do I need to change some resistors? which zeners to use? 5.1 or 6.0v?
Many thanks for your feedback.
Hi everybody,
I received on monday the F6 kit and I am a little bit lostas there are not any paper instructions.
.
All the build and setting up information that you need are on the build guide which is much better than paper instructions.
F6 Illustrated Build Guide
Go for the 6.0 v zener and R7 R8 at 3.3 kOhm
.
OK, many thanks for your feedback!
Merci !🙂
I agree, the illustrated guide is well made and I will follow it. Nevertheless I like to have some paper next to me... like for the Nutube preamp assembling. Thank you for responding!
Greetings,
Beginning my F6 build. I think I have all the parts ordered, though that seems to be a somewhat ongoing thing as I learn more. I have ordered the parts for Pico's Magic F6 trick.
I am curious though about the sonic implications of said magic trick. I'm building the F6 because I really like the sound of my ACA monoblocks (fed by Nutube pre), but feel like I could use a little more power. (And because building amplifiers is fun!)
Also, wondering if there's any concerns about not matching the output devices spec'd in that trick.
Am excited about this project because this time I actually (sort of) understand the circuit, having had some coaching from a EE friend.
Anyway, wanted to say hello and major thanks to all the knowledgeable contributors for sharing their wisdom and enthusiasm.
-- Thing
Beginning my F6 build. I think I have all the parts ordered, though that seems to be a somewhat ongoing thing as I learn more. I have ordered the parts for Pico's Magic F6 trick.
I am curious though about the sonic implications of said magic trick. I'm building the F6 because I really like the sound of my ACA monoblocks (fed by Nutube pre), but feel like I could use a little more power. (And because building amplifiers is fun!)
Also, wondering if there's any concerns about not matching the output devices spec'd in that trick.
Am excited about this project because this time I actually (sort of) understand the circuit, having had some coaching from a EE friend.
Anyway, wanted to say hello and major thanks to all the knowledgeable contributors for sharing their wisdom and enthusiasm.
-- Thing
I would suggest building it as "stock" with only the zenner mod, and standard Mosfets. Get it running and stable. Then look at mods if you want to.
Leave the zenner leads slightly long to make it simpler to do the LED mod later if you wish.
Most peole are more than happy with the sound of the stock built F6. 😀
Leave the zenner leads slightly long to make it simpler to do the LED mod later if you wish.
Most peole are more than happy with the sound of the stock built F6. 😀
I agree with you as I moreover want something stable 😉
So I will go as recommended with 6.0 Zener and 3,3k R7/R8
So I will go as recommended with 6.0 Zener and 3,3k R7/R8
Basic build questions
Thanks to everyone on this thread, especially 6L6, Zen Mod, and Mr. Pass. I’m starting an F6 and have some basic questions. (Working my way through the thread, but have not been able to read all of them yet.) I am hoping to get advice on the following:
1. Would like to use a lighted power switch on the front. The LED requires a separate 6v-12v DC power source. What is best practice for how/where to tap the power from. 6v provides the right brightness. Tap from the DC side of one of the bridge rectifiers at 18v and use a buck to step down to 6v? Use a second transformer? Any risk to sound quality? Using Antek 300VA.
2. Thoughts on adding a DC protect/speaker delay board? Also, best way to power that?
4. Any advice on drilling a 19MM hole in 15MM thick black anodized aluminum face plate?
Thanks for your help!
Thanks to everyone on this thread, especially 6L6, Zen Mod, and Mr. Pass. I’m starting an F6 and have some basic questions. (Working my way through the thread, but have not been able to read all of them yet.) I am hoping to get advice on the following:
1. Would like to use a lighted power switch on the front. The LED requires a separate 6v-12v DC power source. What is best practice for how/where to tap the power from. 6v provides the right brightness. Tap from the DC side of one of the bridge rectifiers at 18v and use a buck to step down to 6v? Use a second transformer? Any risk to sound quality? Using Antek 300VA.
2. Thoughts on adding a DC protect/speaker delay board? Also, best way to power that?
4. Any advice on drilling a 19MM hole in 15MM thick black anodized aluminum face plate?
Thanks for your help!
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