Finally sourced a push button switch for the panel front. It is a TE Connectivity AVH19LSFE7241604 Mouser #655-2-2364570-0. The led is powered from one of the power supply channels. Had to install offset due to conflict with transformer.
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I'm beginning to collect parts for a F6 build - the store is currently out of PCB kits but I was able to order the boards, transistor set, JFETs and locate the Jensen transformers elsewhere - now to collect the rest of the bits. Before I order a Universal Power Supply board - something I see used in many builds posted here I have a couple of questions -
Is it practical to consider an alternate PS - https://www.musicaldesign.com/MC_PS200.html the DH200 Halfer dual mono one for example? Why? It seems simpler, not other good reason other than the build thread for the DIYstore one seems to contain more struggles in assemblies than I would have expected.
Could I get a specific PN recommendation on Antek or Toroidy transformers for single or dual mono configurations. I have searched and begun plowing through the build thread from start - but have not located this info as yet.
Looking forward to the start-up. Working on a set of Seas Exotic 2 ways speakers also that should go well with this amp - eventually. Thanks
Is it practical to consider an alternate PS - https://www.musicaldesign.com/MC_PS200.html the DH200 Halfer dual mono one for example? Why? It seems simpler, not other good reason other than the build thread for the DIYstore one seems to contain more struggles in assemblies than I would have expected.
Could I get a specific PN recommendation on Antek or Toroidy transformers for single or dual mono configurations. I have searched and begun plowing through the build thread from start - but have not located this info as yet.
Looking forward to the start-up. Working on a set of Seas Exotic 2 ways speakers also that should go well with this amp - eventually. Thanks
The Antek AS-3218, AS-4218 or AN-5218 will all work for a single PSU running a stereo amp. The 4218 and 5218 are overkill but not in a bad way.
If you wanted two transformers for a true dual-mono PS, the AS-2218 would work for supplying one channel.
The struggles with the universal PSU board is people are learning. Once you figure out the caps, resistors, rectifiers and connectors and get them in-house, solders together pdq.
The linked PSU kit doesn't list the rectifier current capability so no idea if it will suffice. I notice there are no resistors in the circuit so may not get the level of filtering that the diyAudio store board provides, being CRC.
If you wanted two transformers for a true dual-mono PS, the AS-2218 would work for supplying one channel.
The struggles with the universal PSU board is people are learning. Once you figure out the caps, resistors, rectifiers and connectors and get them in-house, solders together pdq.
The linked PSU kit doesn't list the rectifier current capability so no idea if it will suffice. I notice there are no resistors in the circuit so may not get the level of filtering that the diyAudio store board provides, being CRC.
I did not find the store PSU at all difficult to build, and it works very well.
It is also a known unit with great support and understanding here if you do have problems.
My dual PSU uses two 400va X 18v transformers because if you are going to build a dual mono system why not?
Using diode bridges in place of the onboard rectifiers allows more options in the layout. IMHO.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...cuit-board-v3-illustrated-build-guide.244788/
It is also a known unit with great support and understanding here if you do have problems.
My dual PSU uses two 400va X 18v transformers because if you are going to build a dual mono system why not?
Using diode bridges in place of the onboard rectifiers allows more options in the layout. IMHO.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...cuit-board-v3-illustrated-build-guide.244788/
@TroutBear -
I'd take a look at this blog and check out the PSU section. I think these gentlemen did a super job. The way the PSU is built for the Aleph J will work perfectly for an F6.
https://diyalephj.blogspot.com/
re: the PSUs you're looking at... I'm highly skeptical of their marketing and claims of the musical performance, but that's another thing all-together. Additionally, if they're going to extoll the virtues of a particular branded part and how good it "sounds", they could at least get the spelling correct. It's not HyperFRED, it's HiPerFRED.
To know the AC secondary voltage (donuts) you'd need the voltage drop of the rectifiers recommended / provided. It's likely that 18VAC secondaries will work, but I'd ask the manufacturer of the boards or look up the IXYS models to get a ballpark. Also, I'd avoid buying their kit. They're using 80 and 100V rated caps. That's perfectly fine for an F6, but it's overkill. Some people use 25V caps, and 35V caps are common. 50V caps still provide a lot of extra margin and some flexibility if you want to use the PSU for an amp with higher rails down the road. tl;dr - higher voltage rated caps (all other things remaining equal) are more expensive. You'd possibly be spending more money than necessary.
If you decide to go that route, I'm sure it will still work and sound wonderful. I'd personally lean another direction. I don't have a horse in the race, but I recommend building a universal PSU very similar to the one in the blog linked above. If you're newer builder (if the build guide confused you, I'm making a leap), I'd start with a single PSU. Later on, you can change it to dual mono if you have room and want to fiddle a bit more. An added benefit, is that you can see for yourself if dual mono is "worth it" to you.
Good luck with your build!
I'd take a look at this blog and check out the PSU section. I think these gentlemen did a super job. The way the PSU is built for the Aleph J will work perfectly for an F6.
https://diyalephj.blogspot.com/
re: the PSUs you're looking at... I'm highly skeptical of their marketing and claims of the musical performance, but that's another thing all-together. Additionally, if they're going to extoll the virtues of a particular branded part and how good it "sounds", they could at least get the spelling correct. It's not HyperFRED, it's HiPerFRED.
To know the AC secondary voltage (donuts) you'd need the voltage drop of the rectifiers recommended / provided. It's likely that 18VAC secondaries will work, but I'd ask the manufacturer of the boards or look up the IXYS models to get a ballpark. Also, I'd avoid buying their kit. They're using 80 and 100V rated caps. That's perfectly fine for an F6, but it's overkill. Some people use 25V caps, and 35V caps are common. 50V caps still provide a lot of extra margin and some flexibility if you want to use the PSU for an amp with higher rails down the road. tl;dr - higher voltage rated caps (all other things remaining equal) are more expensive. You'd possibly be spending more money than necessary.
If you decide to go that route, I'm sure it will still work and sound wonderful. I'd personally lean another direction. I don't have a horse in the race, but I recommend building a universal PSU very similar to the one in the blog linked above. If you're newer builder (if the build guide confused you, I'm making a leap), I'd start with a single PSU. Later on, you can change it to dual mono if you have room and want to fiddle a bit more. An added benefit, is that you can see for yourself if dual mono is "worth it" to you.
Good luck with your build!
Many thanks to all above who responded so promptly - and for the PNs @6sX7! This is exactly the type of support I've seen in the forums that encouraged me to order the F6 parts to get started. Great encouragement on the PS - I believe that I will go that route [DIYStore PS] and will read through more posts here as I order the remaining items to decide on the single / dual path - not that it's a forever decision as @ItsAllInMy head points out.
I'm reasonably confident in my ability to solder, assemble and follow directions I can dig up here - assembled my Hafler amp / preamp in '81 just out of college where I was a part time tech on the old 3/4 inch Sony video recorders and similar home units - but there were excellent service manuals to go by there - and it's [do the math] been more than a couple of years. After moving from Industry [most aero-defense] to applied research in composites at my alma mater, I now have time to pick back up on old interests. More questions to follow I'm certain. Thanks again!
I'm reasonably confident in my ability to solder, assemble and follow directions I can dig up here - assembled my Hafler amp / preamp in '81 just out of college where I was a part time tech on the old 3/4 inch Sony video recorders and similar home units - but there were excellent service manuals to go by there - and it's [do the math] been more than a couple of years. After moving from Industry [most aero-defense] to applied research in composites at my alma mater, I now have time to pick back up on old interests. More questions to follow I'm certain. Thanks again!
The power supply does work well if you use the solder tags on the boards with crimp on connectors on the wires.
It is worth checking that your connectors will fit the large transformer wires.
Tip.
When setting up the amp boards it makes life easy if you can supply power to one or the other for testing.
So, don't hard solder everything straight off.
It is worth checking that your connectors will fit the large transformer wires.
Tip.
When setting up the amp boards it makes life easy if you can supply power to one or the other for testing.
So, don't hard solder everything straight off.
As you've noted, the thread gets hard to track down specific answers. Lots of folks around here to help when such dark times are encountered.
Those PSU options from musicaldesign.com won't work for any of the FW amps that require dual rail supplies (+24V and -24V and GND). Those supplies also provide no secondary smoothing (C-R-C vs just plain C - caps) so I would recommend the diyAudio store universal PSU as well, especially since the Aleph-J build guide exists as well as the build guide from member 6L6 as ColinA123 and ItsAllInMyHead have stated in posts 4472 and 4473.
The F6 requires dual rail supplies. The only projects which don't require dual rail supplies are the F3 and F2 (not counting unreleased designs).
Cheers!
The F6 requires dual rail supplies. The only projects which don't require dual rail supplies are the F3 and F2 (not counting unreleased designs).
Cheers!
Hi builders,
After shipping my F6 across the globe, the transformer detached inside my chassis. There being not much space to move about, it didn't do any visible damage. I still tested sections separately:
Now if I connect the PSU to TH1 (which is connected to chassis ground with IEC earth), TH1 burns in a few seconds after switching on. I first thought this was because I was connecting the PSU to TH1 with no load, but it happened also with the amp boards connected as well.
PSU disconnected from TH1, I checked for a short using my MM: one probe on the chassis ground, the other on all PSU contacts i could think of. Nothing beeps, but I may be looking for it the wrong way.
I have no idea what may be causing TH1 to fry like this. Any idea what could be wrong?
N.B : 400VA transformer, all values identical to the BOM, amp worked great for months before shipping with same wiring (checked against old photos)
After shipping my F6 across the globe, the transformer detached inside my chassis. There being not much space to move about, it didn't do any visible damage. I still tested sections separately:
- transformer gives me 18V on secondaries as expected
- diode boards tested ok with the diode mode of my MM
- transformer + bridge rectifiers + filtering section (PSU ground not connected to TH1) : V+ and V- at ~24.8VDC
Now if I connect the PSU to TH1 (which is connected to chassis ground with IEC earth), TH1 burns in a few seconds after switching on. I first thought this was because I was connecting the PSU to TH1 with no load, but it happened also with the amp boards connected as well.
PSU disconnected from TH1, I checked for a short using my MM: one probe on the chassis ground, the other on all PSU contacts i could think of. Nothing beeps, but I may be looking for it the wrong way.
I have no idea what may be causing TH1 to fry like this. Any idea what could be wrong?
N.B : 400VA transformer, all values identical to the BOM, amp worked great for months before shipping with same wiring (checked against old photos)
After scratching my head for a long while, I took the whole amplifier apart, examined and put back all PCBs and connections. Somehow, all is fine now. What I guess was a short (but which I haven't found) has been solved. Sorry for cluttering the thread with something I've been able to solve myself!
Cheers