Maybe to avoid spending a lot of time making big changes try putting some of these caps in parallel with what you already have installed and observe the changes.
Then if one type of cap sounds like a clear improvement, then at that stage consider changing all the caps at the output.
You will make much faster progress doing it like this without needing to invest big dollars.
Then if one type of cap sounds like a clear improvement, then at that stage consider changing all the caps at the output.
You will make much faster progress doing it like this without needing to invest big dollars.
I have built beautiful trapezoid mar-ken tall box for Alpair10p from Planet10's plan.
I like that sweet mid-range.
Satoris are smooth and clear sound but have not
built suggested box yet.(x-over seems perfect)
I will check eBay, probably I will make it from plain board.
Changing caps is not easy in my F6 yes.
Also inductor diode making another heat so I need more
holes in bottom.
I like that sweet mid-range.
Satoris are smooth and clear sound but have not
built suggested box yet.(x-over seems perfect)
I will check eBay, probably I will make it from plain board.
Changing caps is not easy in my F6 yes.
Also inductor diode making another heat so I need more
holes in bottom.
Ah, yes. I went back to your post #2462 for the photos of your build - plenty enough holes in the bottom panel, although you can't have enough air around the insides!
MSR diodes bridges will create a few extra watts but 'usual' bolt-on heatsinks will be enough - not too bad
I see your speaker too - I still find the EnABL marks on Dave's speakers look like 'speckled eggs! Also, I'm curious to see what the 8" Li Audio FR drivers sound like.
To change those S/Thru, cut a notch in the top of the terminal/tab and then can lift the solid copper wire from the terminal as you unsolder it so don't need to dismantle the assemble - I did a similar version and the 'top slots' made it easy to change and all the ground connections going to the central point on the copper wire
MSR diodes bridges will create a few extra watts but 'usual' bolt-on heatsinks will be enough - not too bad
I see your speaker too - I still find the EnABL marks on Dave's speakers look like 'speckled eggs! Also, I'm curious to see what the 8" Li Audio FR drivers sound like.
To change those S/Thru, cut a notch in the top of the terminal/tab and then can lift the solid copper wire from the terminal as you unsolder it so don't need to dismantle the assemble - I did a similar version and the 'top slots' made it easy to change and all the ground connections going to the central point on the copper wire
I found the Cree diodes to have a similar result and preferred the Soft Recovery ones - they do get a bit hotter
The caps: There isn't actually a 8,200uF cap listed in the LAO page, in either 35v or 50v - it maybe a specially made one but see if you can check it's genuine - U$5 is a bit too cheap too. They should be around 30/35mm diameter and maybe 40mm high.
I say they're not listed but Elna do make a lot for other manufacturers - I have some unlisted 12,000uF/63v that were 'saved' (Godot market!) when the Sony plant closed in Indonesia some years back and are excellent caps indeed.
The current rating for the 10,000uF/35V are just 3.5A and are 35mm dia x 40 high - the 6,800/35v are only 2.7A so if those 8,200uF/35 are genuine, they should be around 3.1A - not enough, so need 2 of them in parallel - there's plenty of space in your chassis.
Have a look at the Elna LAO catalogue/specs, on page 219.
The caps: There isn't actually a 8,200uF cap listed in the LAO page, in either 35v or 50v - it maybe a specially made one but see if you can check it's genuine - U$5 is a bit too cheap too. They should be around 30/35mm diameter and maybe 40mm high.
I say they're not listed but Elna do make a lot for other manufacturers - I have some unlisted 12,000uF/63v that were 'saved' (Godot market!) when the Sony plant closed in Indonesia some years back and are excellent caps indeed.
The current rating for the 10,000uF/35V are just 3.5A and are 35mm dia x 40 high - the 6,800/35v are only 2.7A so if those 8,200uF/35 are genuine, they should be around 3.1A - not enough, so need 2 of them in parallel - there's plenty of space in your chassis.
Have a look at the Elna LAO catalogue/specs, on page 219.
Today,I tried snubber. Sound actually changed,
I did not find any noise but somehow I did not
like the sound. Unfortunately I don't have ocilloscope
so I don't know what happening. I feel comfortable enough without snubber so I am gaving up.
Also add elna 8200uF on last cap only check the sound.
Sound get brighter and tighter but I felt loosing 3D sounding a little. But not sure if I wire nicely and burn them in.
Then I changed R2,R3 mra05 to manganin resistors.
There was no 0.56 isabellenhutte so I bought super funcy powertrons.Arrived yesterday.
I really love those resistors. I want 100R also but
didn't find,even mundorf has 47R maximum.
I can't stop listening smooth 3D imaging sound
I did not find any noise but somehow I did not
like the sound. Unfortunately I don't have ocilloscope
so I don't know what happening. I feel comfortable enough without snubber so I am gaving up.
Also add elna 8200uF on last cap only check the sound.
Sound get brighter and tighter but I felt loosing 3D sounding a little. But not sure if I wire nicely and burn them in.
Then I changed R2,R3 mra05 to manganin resistors.
There was no 0.56 isabellenhutte so I bought super funcy powertrons.Arrived yesterday.
I really love those resistors. I want 100R also but
didn't find,even mundorf has 47R maximum.
I can't stop listening smooth 3D imaging sound
I't's great that you've tried some of the options and had such positive results.
The addition of the snubbers doesn't suit everyone's system - same thing with the choice of diodes, capacitors, etc. It would be a boring old world if we all liked just the same things.
Glad that those Elna caps turned out to be 'good ones' - it's been my finding too that they do provide a clearer amplifier response that the SuperThroughs but do require some more hours of use - it'll be interesting to see what happens if/when you remove the Nichicon and run the amp on just the Elna caps - this is for 8,200uF per rail for each channel as per the F6 power supply diagram, yes?
Really glad that those rather expensive Manganin resistors have provided you with such a benefit in the sound - they also improve with hours use, a lot of them, strangely enough.
Rhopoint Components in England keep quite a few versions of the 1/4 watt, 200V, non-inductive wirewound precision resistors - they've been around for a long time - I've only used the "General Resistor" 8G16 ones.
You get a similar change if used as input jfet resistors, 'gate stopper' resistors etc you can sometimes see them in RS, Farnell, etc but ridiculous prices.
About the 0.56R Manganin Powertrons - they do list a stock of 46 of the 0.56R resistors but this appears inaccurate, yes?
However, if the 0.68R is available, you can simply add a lower power 3.3R resistor (of your choice) in parallel to obtain the 0.56R result - can just solder this // one underneath - you don't need to use an 'audiophile' resistor for this either - the everyday Bayschlag/Draloric (now Vishay/BC) Melfs will fit between the Powertron pins neatly. Just saying ...
The addition of the snubbers doesn't suit everyone's system - same thing with the choice of diodes, capacitors, etc. It would be a boring old world if we all liked just the same things.
Glad that those Elna caps turned out to be 'good ones' - it's been my finding too that they do provide a clearer amplifier response that the SuperThroughs but do require some more hours of use - it'll be interesting to see what happens if/when you remove the Nichicon and run the amp on just the Elna caps - this is for 8,200uF per rail for each channel as per the F6 power supply diagram, yes?
Really glad that those rather expensive Manganin resistors have provided you with such a benefit in the sound - they also improve with hours use, a lot of them, strangely enough.
Rhopoint Components in England keep quite a few versions of the 1/4 watt, 200V, non-inductive wirewound precision resistors - they've been around for a long time - I've only used the "General Resistor" 8G16 ones.
You get a similar change if used as input jfet resistors, 'gate stopper' resistors etc you can sometimes see them in RS, Farnell, etc but ridiculous prices.
About the 0.56R Manganin Powertrons - they do list a stock of 46 of the 0.56R resistors but this appears inaccurate, yes?
However, if the 0.68R is available, you can simply add a lower power 3.3R resistor (of your choice) in parallel to obtain the 0.56R result - can just solder this // one underneath - you don't need to use an 'audiophile' resistor for this either - the everyday Bayschlag/Draloric (now Vishay/BC) Melfs will fit between the Powertron pins neatly. Just saying ...
Hi,
I am trying build this F6 with by stock parts. I have a nice pair of Tamura transformer (TAM TPAS-201) which has 300:600, 1:2 ratio, and some lateral MOSFETs remaining from my F7 project.
Is my Tamura transformer will work with F6?
I want to try the F6 with lateral MOSFETs with no degeneration resisters too.
Any comment??
I am trying build this F6 with by stock parts. I have a nice pair of Tamura transformer (TAM TPAS-201) which has 300:600, 1:2 ratio, and some lateral MOSFETs remaining from my F7 project.
Is my Tamura transformer will work with F6?
I want to try the F6 with lateral MOSFETs with no degeneration resisters too.
Any comment??
Well lateral mosfets have a pinout of GSD the pcb is designed for mosfets with a pinout of GDS.
You could make it work running wires off the leads.
Laterals don't really have adequate transconductance to get you a decent amount of damping factor, however if you had speakers with full range drivers it would work quite well.
Alternatively, if you were happy with 9dB of gain, and had double die laterals it would get you close to where you want to be with this design with more regular kinds of speakers.
Forget the transformer, use that one for another application
You could make it work running wires off the leads.
Laterals don't really have adequate transconductance to get you a decent amount of damping factor, however if you had speakers with full range drivers it would work quite well.
Alternatively, if you were happy with 9dB of gain, and had double die laterals it would get you close to where you want to be with this design with more regular kinds of speakers.
Forget the transformer, use that one for another application
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Please I got a firstwatt F6 humming issue on new built amplifier.
I think it needs a good grounding on the amplifier.
It was made for me overseas unable to contact the person for now, so I have no idea about wiring.
The amplifier parts: diyaudio F6 kits, with speaker protection and PSU soft start.
It sounds awesome but the hum issue coming from the amplifier and through the speakers is bothering me.
update : when I only connect the speaker cables and amplifier and power on then I get the hum from the speakers.
Any idea of resolve?
I think it needs a good grounding on the amplifier.
It was made for me overseas unable to contact the person for now, so I have no idea about wiring.
The amplifier parts: diyaudio F6 kits, with speaker protection and PSU soft start.
It sounds awesome but the hum issue coming from the amplifier and through the speakers is bothering me.
update : when I only connect the speaker cables and amplifier and power on then I get the hum from the speakers.
Any idea of resolve?
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