Words less than 4 letters are ignored. When I want to search for a term like this, I use Google and append DIYAudio. It seems to work well.
I also have an Antek 4218 arriving later today for my SissySIT project. I'll measure snubbers on that, too. I'm guessing 20 Ohm range. 3218's I used on my F5's are 18 or 20 Ohm. More news when I measure.
The PS schematic on the last page of the F5 manual (15,000uf x8) and 18v secondaries produces plenty of punch. People are shocked that it's a 25W amp when they hear it.
I built a Quasimodo jig earlier this year and have used it in building several amps: Aleph Mini J, Aleph J Monoblocks, standard F5's, and now I'm going to build F5 Turbo's for a friend, and SissySIT's for me.
Going through old notes, here's the snubber values I went with.
Antek 4218 - 20 Ohm (SissySIT)
Antek 3218 - 20 Ohm (F5)
Antek 6435 - 20 Ohm (F5 Turbo V3)
Antek 3220 - 18 Ohm, 16 Ohm (Aleph J Mono)
Avel Lindberg Y236607 14 Ohm (Aleph Mini J Stereo)
Today I measured the 4218 and 6435's. For grins I set the pot to 20, and then to 18. The difference between 18 and 20 Ohms on the scope isn't much. I chose 20 because that's what I have on hand. 18 would be fine.
Caps I'm using are:
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.01uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C103K
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.15uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C154J
Going through old notes, here's the snubber values I went with.
Antek 4218 - 20 Ohm (SissySIT)
Antek 3218 - 20 Ohm (F5)
Antek 6435 - 20 Ohm (F5 Turbo V3)
Antek 3220 - 18 Ohm, 16 Ohm (Aleph J Mono)
Avel Lindberg Y236607 14 Ohm (Aleph Mini J Stereo)
Today I measured the 4218 and 6435's. For grins I set the pot to 20, and then to 18. The difference between 18 and 20 Ohms on the scope isn't much. I chose 20 because that's what I have on hand. 18 would be fine.
Caps I'm using are:
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.01uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C103K
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.15uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C154J
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Thanks for all your help you guys, I appreciate it.
Have not ordered parts yet so, all of your info really helps.
Have not ordered parts yet so, all of your info really helps.
Brian92fs:
You’re right, I should’ve caught that. Thanks for minimizing my misdirection!
Regards,
Scott
Also on the fence as which direction to go on the rectifier circuit.
Old school with blocks or the boards.
Going the block side is a little cheaper, and, fewer parts are fewer failures.
Old school with blocks or the boards.
Going the block side is a little cheaper, and, fewer parts are fewer failures.
Those caps will work great.
I have built 8 or 9 amps with the rectifier boards. I'm doing my next 2 with bridges and doing a snubber circuit off some terminal blocks.
Why? The main reason for me is that I have made dual rail power supply boards for caps and resistors, and don't have any more rectifier boards. Plus I have the bridges in a spare parts box. I've read that a snubber on a so-so rectifier circuit beats the best fast/soft rectifier without snubbers. So I'm taking a decent bridge and adding snubbers.
If you have the boards and decide to use individual diodes or Schottky's, you'll need the separate diodes, heatsinks, and hardware (screws, washers, nuts, thermal insulating pad / washer depending on the rectifer.) It's a little more time and money to go for the individual diodes. But it's a DIY project, not a commercial design. Few extra bucks and a bit of time won't be end of the world if you decide to go that way.
I have built 8 or 9 amps with the rectifier boards. I'm doing my next 2 with bridges and doing a snubber circuit off some terminal blocks.
Why? The main reason for me is that I have made dual rail power supply boards for caps and resistors, and don't have any more rectifier boards. Plus I have the bridges in a spare parts box. I've read that a snubber on a so-so rectifier circuit beats the best fast/soft rectifier without snubbers. So I'm taking a decent bridge and adding snubbers.
If you have the boards and decide to use individual diodes or Schottky's, you'll need the separate diodes, heatsinks, and hardware (screws, washers, nuts, thermal insulating pad / washer depending on the rectifer.) It's a little more time and money to go for the individual diodes. But it's a DIY project, not a commercial design. Few extra bucks and a bit of time won't be end of the world if you decide to go that way.
What are the wattage values you are using for the 20ohm resistors, are they 1/2 watt as called out in the original BOM
I just confirmed that I used 0.5W snubber resistors.
4U chassis should be perfect.
If there is the chance you may want to go for a F5 turbo one day, consider biting the bullet to get a 5U chassis. It will work fine for your F5, and give you room to expand if you want to use the chassis for a larger future build.
4U chassis should be perfect.
If there is the chance you may want to go for a F5 turbo one day, consider biting the bullet to get a 5U chassis. It will work fine for your F5, and give you room to expand if you want to use the chassis for a larger future build.
Thanks for the info.
Have all parts ordered for the boards as they are.
Anyway, I am building this just to have a Nelson Pass design, never had the opportunity to listen to one of his amps and now I am going build one "with my own little hands".
Oh, any tips on soldering the aluminum heat sinks?
Have all parts ordered for the boards as they are.
Anyway, I am building this just to have a Nelson Pass design, never had the opportunity to listen to one of his amps and now I am going build one "with my own little hands".
Oh, any tips on soldering the aluminum heat sinks?
I thought I read somewhere that they were soldered.
Glad they do not need to be though as it sounds like it would be challenging
Glad they do not need to be though as it sounds like it would be challenging
I have a pair of Anthologys that I built and plan on running with this amp.
Here is quote from the designer,"The worst amplifier load is 5.6 ohms and -25 degrees at 58 Hz.
Will I be ok running this with a standard F5V3 with the 18 volt Antek?
Here is quote from the designer,"The worst amplifier load is 5.6 ohms and -25 degrees at 58 Hz.
Will I be ok running this with a standard F5V3 with the 18 volt Antek?
Are you thinking of the rectifier heatsinks?
if so, there is 2 pins on the underside of the sinks. Solder dem to the PCB like any other Component. Just remeber to screw down the rectifier diodes to the heatsinks first.