Folks:
UKToecutter's power supply pcb design was exactly what a number of us were looking for -- very compact and capable of supporting sixteen 35mm diameter snap-in caps and all of those resistors and ancillary parts. In my mind's eye, I was contemplating a stack of two UKToecutter power supply pcbs in the F5T V3 I hope to build. I'm sitting on a large quantity of 10,000 uF Nichicon KG caps from Buzzforb's group buy with no clear way to use them. If I had the skill to replicate UKToecutter's power supply design, I'd happily do so. But I don't.
If UKToecutter could do it, someone else can as well. Is anyone else up for the challenge? A 16 cap power supply pcb with dimensions of less than 7" square would be ideal. I'd be happy to assist, if there's anything that I can do to help.
Regards,
Scott
UKToecutter's power supply pcb design was exactly what a number of us were looking for -- very compact and capable of supporting sixteen 35mm diameter snap-in caps and all of those resistors and ancillary parts. In my mind's eye, I was contemplating a stack of two UKToecutter power supply pcbs in the F5T V3 I hope to build. I'm sitting on a large quantity of 10,000 uF Nichicon KG caps from Buzzforb's group buy with no clear way to use them. If I had the skill to replicate UKToecutter's power supply design, I'd happily do so. But I don't.
If UKToecutter could do it, someone else can as well. Is anyone else up for the challenge? A 16 cap power supply pcb with dimensions of less than 7" square would be ideal. I'd be happy to assist, if there's anything that I can do to help.
Regards,
Scott
How about a BIG bus bar set up? I think IF you're doing a V3 you should not be too worried about case size as the ones that DIY Audio are planning to sell (?) are not small.
He's gone Lord Lucan, but Mr.uktoecutter was some what less of a cad imho from the words we shared.
I am doing one for GB members, if it works out OK, I'll make layout available. I am behind, of course
why not just use the store PSU boards? one pr ch.
if you dont have room for 2 side by side. then stack them on top of each other.
Odysseas:
It seems UKToecutter has vanished. What's worse, he hadn't shared the design file for his power supply pcb before disappearing.
While we can hope he will rejoin this community, we ought to investigate our options in the meantime.
Buzzforb -- once again to the rescue? If there's anything that I can do to help in the design of a suitable replacement to UKToecutter's power supply pcb, please don't hesitate to ask.
Regards,
Scott
It seems UKToecutter has vanished. What's worse, he hadn't shared the design file for his power supply pcb before disappearing.
While we can hope he will rejoin this community, we ought to investigate our options in the meantime.
Buzzforb -- once again to the rescue? If there's anything that I can do to help in the design of a suitable replacement to UKToecutter's power supply pcb, please don't hesitate to ask.
Regards,
Scott
Even I can drop in if required. I can help is getting new PCB design provided you need to guide me what you want.
This is correct. If you have 30mm dia caps then you can have 8 on each board and stack them . Here's a link to a board image. Click on it to enlarge it further:
http://www.diyaudio.com/store/amplifier-circuit-boards/power-supplies-accessories/psu-cap-diode.html
You can connect the 2 boards using the holes for 35mm caps on the same board. First snap off the diode section on both boards and use one of them for your diodes. The photo doesn't show it but the current boards are scored so they can be snapped. You need to separate it anyway because that way you can fold the diodes out flat to mount them to a heatsink or the back of the front panel or to the base (probably not enough for an F5t ) (There was a lot of concern by some that the toecutter PSU boards didn't have adequate heatsinking for the diodes)
Now just mount one on top of the other using long standoffs or bolts , then run short jumpers between the boards between the holes c12 to C12 , c13 to C13,c14 to C14, c15 to C15. You then have 16 caps in an efficient configuration with plenty of resistor mounting points. Of course you can do the same with the boards side by side, just not as tidy..
Ok, if you happened to have bought 35mm caps you would have to buy a lot of boards or get the biggest 35mm caps you can find, because you only get 4 per board, and the jumpers are a lot harder to install, so that's a problem, but if you haven't gotten any yet, then get 30mm
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i use the bottom as heatsinking for the rectifiers. 270x500mm, 3mm thick alu plate.
that worked fine for aleph2 also🙂 so i guess it will also do for F5 turbo🙂
that worked fine for aleph2 also🙂 so i guess it will also do for F5 turbo🙂
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It looks like a very well thought out PSU board.
bummer: i won't make the Burning Amp festival! It's a true shame! I need the rabbit to come out of the hat!
bummer: i won't make the Burning Amp festival! It's a true shame! I need the rabbit to come out of the hat!
OK if you have access to a drill press with depth adjustment (so you don't drill all the way through!)you can drill and tap into the back of the front panel of the new diyAudio Big A chassis to mount the diodes Since it's 10mm thick by more than 400mm wide by more than 200mm tall it would be perfect I think as a sink for the diodes.Blind tapping the holes might require two taps- one regular and one to follow ground flat at the tip.
if you are serious about tapping then buy the set of three taps. taper, intermediate and plug.
The plug is the specially ground version for tapping to near the bottom of a blind hole.
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