I did try BBQ-ing the dead fets at the end of my last backyard BBQ to make sure they were really toasted. The smell certainly was not fun especially the significant half's look 😀
😀😀
You mean Class A doesnt smell better
As a joke, i always ask my wife to hold DMM probe and watch to make sur eit doesn tcatch on fire.

While balanced Is the cats pajamas , I have heard single ended just as good and have yet to make the mental justification for change ..🙂
AndrewT could you suggest some reading for me on these topics? I built an Aleph2 would an F5Tv2 be a worthwhile build for me? I appreciate your advice.
nrg. maybe a V3 can be to something too
if you'r planning on using the same chassis. it will be perfect.
you have the aleph2 look. so 2 fets/diodes pr sink🙂
regarding some reading. the F5turbo article on firstwatt.com is a good start🙂
if you'r planning on using the same chassis. it will be perfect.
you have the aleph2 look. so 2 fets/diodes pr sink🙂
regarding some reading. the F5turbo article on firstwatt.com is a good start🙂
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F5 Turbo V2 PCbs
Hi,
received PCbs for F5 Turbo V2.Pcb layout by my friend and Diy audio member Omishra. Boards are big,thick and heavy.We are building a dual mono with two Power supply filter and a rectifier,few pics
Regards,
Sachin
Hi,
received PCbs for F5 Turbo V2.Pcb layout by my friend and Diy audio member Omishra. Boards are big,thick and heavy.We are building a dual mono with two Power supply filter and a rectifier,few pics
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards,
Sachin
Not really.That's sexy.
Is that weird?
You should see how excited I get over 'traditional' style wheels for racing bicycles.......
Not really.
You should see how excited I get over 'traditional' style wheels for racing bicycles.......
you mean 3-cross spokes?
Much better than the radial types they sell nowadays.You can't beat a good pair of handbuilt wheels.
26 2 cross spokes front, double butted rustless sanded down, bound soldered crosses.
32 rear with 2 non and 3 cross drive, double butted none drive / butted drive side, sanded/bound and soldered laced onto shallow Mavic tubular fit rims.
Rims and hubs in polished alloy.
Pity that they don't make Wolber tubs any more.
Almost crash proof!
Very nice circuit boards btw.
32 rear with 2 non and 3 cross drive, double butted none drive / butted drive side, sanded/bound and soldered laced onto shallow Mavic tubular fit rims.
Rims and hubs in polished alloy.
Pity that they don't make Wolber tubs any more.
Almost crash proof!
Very nice circuit boards btw.
Sanding with sandpaper,takes the production marks out of double butted spoke (and removes the rust-less coating off to allow soldering), there fore less chance of stress fracturing = higher tensions.
It also means you have to polish the spokes once a week = nice sparkly wheels.
It also means you have to polish the spokes once a week = nice sparkly wheels.
I'm thinkin' 2 cross on the front, because my 1970's Raleigh Professional had that, then 3x on the driveside rear, and 2x on the other.
The question is whether to use my XTR front hub I have in a drawer with centerlock disc or not.
I like discs after I heard what it would cost to rebuild my Mavic Kysriums now that the sidewalls have worn down.
The question is whether to use my XTR front hub I have in a drawer with centerlock disc or not.
I like discs after I heard what it would cost to rebuild my Mavic Kysriums now that the sidewalls have worn down.
By Buzzforb,
[Sadhu,
I would suggest 18 or 22mF caps over 10mF. The boards look fantastic]
Where are you talking about with above caps? Got the MOSFETS a while ago thank you!
[Sadhu,
I would suggest 18 or 22mF caps over 10mF. The boards look fantastic]
Where are you talking about with above caps? Got the MOSFETS a while ago thank you!
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