F5 Turbo Builders Thread

[AudioSan]

the efficiency of a class A amp varies. as with all other classes.
a push-pull class A is more efficient then a pure class A (as the aleph's)
there is no exact formula for this.
1.6KVA is good for 2channels of v3. but i would have build the amps as monoblocks and had a external chassis for the transformer.

 

[BigE]

Thank you AudioSan. You're a gentleman!

 

[buzzforb]

Don't go too far, BigE. 😀

Mr San,
when you going to get that thing up and running. I cant wait to hear what you think of the difference.

 

[noSmoking]

Hi BuzzForb,
I was wondering what you did with your diodes for heatsinking,did you use a seperate sink? If so what size?
Thanks,
NS

 

[6L6]

F5T v2 Amp board(s) BOM

If you see any errors, please speak up.


Links through Digi-key.

Vishay/Dale CMF resistors and Panasonic ERX. Bourns pots, Vishay thermistor, MUR diodes. Nichicon KW caps. No links for small transistors, as there is no current stock.

Contact Buzzforb for the power transistors.

C1,2 - 10uf, 50V - UKW1H100MDD Nichicon | 493-3187-ND | DigiKey

R1, 5, 6 - 1K 1/2W CMF551K0000FKEA Vishay Dale | CMF1.00KHHCT-ND | DigiKey

R2 - 47.5K 1/2W CMF5547K500FHEB Vishay Dale | CMF47.5KHFCT-ND | DigiKey

R3, 4 - 10ohm 1/2W CMF5510R000FKEB Vishay Dale | CMF10.0HGCT-ND | DigiKey

R7, 8, 9, 10 - 220ohm 3W ERG-3SJ221 Panasonic Electronic Components | P220W-3BK-ND | DigiKey

R11, 12 - 2.2k 1/2W CMF552K2000FHEK Vishay Dale | CMF2.20KHA-ND | DigiKey

R13, 14, 15, 16 -- 47.5ohm 1/2W CMF5547R500FHEB Vishay Dale | CMF47.5HFCT-ND | DigiKey

R17 thru 24 - 1ohm 3W ERX-3SJ1R0 Panasonic Electronic Components | P1.0W-3BK-ND | DigiKey

P1, 2 - 5K 3296W-1-502LF Bourns Inc. | 3296W-502LF-ND | DigiKey

P3 - 200ohm 3296W-1-201LF Bourns Inc. | 3296W-201LF-ND | DigiKey

TH1, 2 - 4.7K NTC NTCLE100E3472GB0 Vishay BC Components | BC2427-ND | DigiKey

Q1 - 2SK170

Q2 - 2SJ74

Q3,4 - FQA12P20

Q5,6 - FQA19N20



Cascode Front-end parts (optional on v2, but not a bad idea...)

C5,6 - 10uf 50v UKW1H100MDD Nichicon | 493-3187-ND | DigiKey


R25 - 10K CMF5510K000FHEB Vishay Dale | CMF10.0KHFCT-ND | DigiKey

R26 - 47.5k UKW1H100MDD Nichicon | 493-3187-ND | DigiKey

R27,28 - 4.75K CMF5510K000FHEB Vishay Dale | CMF10.0KHFCT-ND | DigiKey

R29,30 - 475ohm CMF55475R00FHEB Vishay Dale | CMF475HFCT-ND | DigiKey

Q7 - 2SC4793

Q8 - 2SA1837

 

[6L6]

F5T v2 PSU BOM

Links to Digi-key

CL-30 CL-30 GE Sensing | KC003L-ND | DigiKey

CL-60 CL-60 GE Sensing | KC006L-ND | DigiKey

Ground breaker bridge GBPC3502-E4/51 Vishay Semiconductor Diodes Division | GBPC3502-E4/51GI-ND | DigiKey

FUSE 4.5 SLO

75C thermostat switch (not sure what is appropriate part)

C1 -- Line Cap .033uf (3300pf) CS13-E2GA332MYNS TDK Corporation | 445-2425-ND | DigiKey

D1, 2, 3, 4 - Main Bridge Diodes MUR 3020 MUR3020WTG ON Semiconductor | MUR3020WTGOS-ND | DigiKey

C2, through C17 -- Filter Capacitors ECO-S1HA103DA Panasonic Electronic Components | P6690-ND | DigiKey

R1 through R14 -- Filter Resistors ERX-3SJR47 Panasonic Electronic Components | P0.47W-3BK-ND | DigiKey

 

[noSmoking]

Hi 6l6,
Q7 and 8 can also be MJE15035 and MJE15034,
Looks GREAT!
Regards,
NS

 

[nrg2009]

great post 6L6, are you building yours as a stereo in a 5U chassis?

 

[AudioSan]

Don't go too far, BigE. 😀

Mr San,
when you going to get that thing up and running. I cant wait to hear what you think of the difference.

hello🙂 i need to get a new M3 tap first. i'll see if i can get one tommorow.
but any sound testing will be a while. i hope to get some alu for the chassis next week. then there is just the building😀

 

[buzzforb]

hello🙂 i need to get a new M3 tap first. i'll see if i can get one tommorow.
but any sound testing will be a while. i hope to get some alu for the chassis next week. then there is just the building😀

you got it all backwards. you listen first. finish later

 

[buzzforb]

Hi BuzzForb,
I was wondering what you did with your diodes for heatsinking,did you use a seperate sink? If so what size?
Thanks,
NS

Putting them on the sink will raise the temperature and make them conduct faster. I put mine off sink for the opposite effect. In truth, they may be somewhat unnecessary for my needs, but i was executing a proof of concept. Page or wo back is a pick of my V2.

 

[6L6]

great post 6L6, are you building yours as a stereo in a 5U chassis?

Yes. It will be a v2 with the diodes, In the deluxe 5U chassis

Mine will be the one for the build guide, so both the standard and cascode FE will be illustrated.

The PSU will be built as close as possible to the schematic in the F5 Turbo article.

If it will work,(and I think it will) I will also make a monoblock v3 in that chassis.

 

[a.wayne]

the efficiency of a class A amp varies. as with all other classes.
a push-pull class A is more efficient then a pure class A (as the aleph's)
there is no exact formula for this.
1.6KVA is good for 2channels of v3. but i would have build the amps as monoblocks and had a external chassis for the transformer.

A 100 watt class-a bias ( full class-a to clipping 8ohm) is pulling more than a 225 watts (consumption) idling .

 

[AudioSan]

😀 no no. then i'll just listen and never ever get the build finnished😀

you got it all backwards. you listen first. finish later

 

[AudioSan]

A 100 watt class-a bias ( full class-a to clipping 8ohm) is pulling more than a 225 watts (consumption) idling .

100W class A at 8ohm is a bias of 2.5A and about +/-45V rails.
45*2.5*2=225W (this is for 1 channel only ofcourse)

 

[buzzforb]

I think he is talking about having enough into harder loads, as most speakers do not meet the 8 ohm load mark. In that case you would run out of current with 2.5A

 

[AudioSan]

yes. then you need more.

 

[sts9fan]

Putting them on the sink will raise the temperature and make them conduct faster. I put mine off sink for the opposite effect. In truth, they may be somewhat unnecessary for my needs, but i was executing a proof of concept. Page or wo back is a pick of my V2.

Putting them on their own small sinks will help though. Correct?

 

[nrg2009]

F5T v2 PSU BOM

Links to Digi-key

75C thermostat switch (not sure what is appropriate part)

I have used this switch, 75C normally closed rated at 6amps (partnumber: 317-1397-ND)
B12A07505AEDA0GE Cantherm | 317-1397-ND | DigiKey

 

[buzzforb]

Putting them on their own small sinks will help though. Correct?

That is what i did.