I guess that could be defined a fairly expensive starting point 🙂
Edit: after starting then what would be next?
Homing in on the best value where the chances of oscilliation is not present without adverse affecting the bandwidth of the amp, meaning even more expensive silver mica caps😀
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... ending up spending more on these than on the output devices? You may be right, but what is Mr Pass's recommendations for these? I can't remember.
Try mkp10, mks4, mkp1837. Don't expect it to have huge influence over sound. May not even be necessary.
Nelson recommended starting with a 1000pF (1nF) cap. I stated Silver Mica, but an MKP might also do the trick if you can get them in that value range.
Here you go: http://za.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKP1J011002C00JSSD/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhH7Q3CstXkUMkfazBqTROCnVWc3jMjWoU%3d
Just check the lead spacing. MKP caps are not friendly caps to make fit if the lead spacing is a bit off. If you have Teabag's boards you might need to go for these since his boards provide for a 5mm lead spacing; http://za.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKP2G011001B00JSSD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrFwgzP98AO9id1qddKDKyIkQ%3d
Just check the lead spacing. MKP caps are not friendly caps to make fit if the lead spacing is a bit off. If you have Teabag's boards you might need to go for these since his boards provide for a 5mm lead spacing; http://za.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKP2G011001B00JSSD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrFwgzP98AO9id1qddKDKyIkQ%3d
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lead spacing is not correct. it must be 5mm.
i got this ones.
168102J100A-F Cornell Dubilier | Mouser
here you have some WIMA caps with 5mm lead spacing
http://za.mouser.com/WIMA/Passive-C...apacitors/_/N-9x371?P=1z0x7weZ1z0zldhZ1z0vn48
i got this ones.
168102J100A-F Cornell Dubilier | Mouser
here you have some WIMA caps with 5mm lead spacing
http://za.mouser.com/WIMA/Passive-C...apacitors/_/N-9x371?P=1z0x7weZ1z0zldhZ1z0vn48
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Scott,
the thermostat/thermoswitch needs to be a NC (normally closed, i.e. electrically conducting until roughly 75°C is attained) type, see it as a "last barrier" thermal security when your heatsinks are getting far to hot...
These switches wil reset automatically (bi-metal type), remembers me school long time ago...
I personnally like this kind of mounting type:
36TX21 2311 L230-40F - Thermostat, thermal cut out. NC.
!! For illustration purpose only, I havn't checked the data of this particular item, I have bought from this seller in the past though!!
Hope that helped!
Cheers,
Max
EDIT: Of course it should be rated for both current/voltage you are drawing on your secondaries...
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this Depends on his setup. he may have a thermal control unit in a softstart also (like hypex). then he need a low voltage/current type. but still a NC.
that is the only sane way to do it. you don't want to run Your mains AC cable around the whole chassis.
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I just bolt them on the heatsink, close to my IEC socket, not more then 10 cm of cable - worst case that is.
But yes, I havn't asked about the particular setup and assumed it was similar to NP schematics without any hyped (pun intended) softstart.
Now if one feels that 75°C is very hot for the "edge" of the heatsink, just go for 65°C or 70°C NC ....
But yes, I havn't asked about the particular setup and assumed it was similar to NP schematics without any hyped (pun intended) softstart.
Now if one feels that 75°C is very hot for the "edge" of the heatsink, just go for 65°C or 70°C NC ....
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you need one pr side in series. or one pr side pr transformer(if dual mono)
and they must be monted on the sinks hottest spot. wich is never close to IEC socket.
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Late night argue battle...
😀
EDIT: Just by looking at the temperature grade NP choses for the thermoswitch it's clear to me that it is a "last barrier" before something catches fire in case the fuse doesn't blow - I am comfortable having a lower temp switch close to my IEC and on one side only.
😀
EDIT: Just by looking at the temperature grade NP choses for the thermoswitch it's clear to me that it is a "last barrier" before something catches fire in case the fuse doesn't blow - I am comfortable having a lower temp switch close to my IEC and on one side only.
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😀
if you have them on the edge of the sinks. the temp rise can take an hour to get detected. wich can ruin the amp. in worst case.
if you lower the value, then you have almost no headroom. then your ambient swing may trigger it🙂
if you have them on the edge of the sinks. the temp rise can take an hour to get detected. wich can ruin the amp. in worst case.
if you lower the value, then you have almost no headroom. then your ambient swing may trigger it🙂
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Having fun tonite aren't we...
As you say, crap a 40 USD of output devices, save the house... looks fine to me as "last barrier"
EDIT: 😀 (most important)
skål
As you say, crap a 40 USD of output devices, save the house... looks fine to me as "last barrier"
EDIT: 😀 (most important)
skål
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well. it is last barrier. but only to keep the outputs from blowing. thats all this things do🙂
its the fuses job to save your house🙂
its the fuses job to save your house🙂
