yeah in 6L6 guide, he said there's no need to do that for this build. And I haven't really researched cascoding circuits. Maybe in the next one I'll give it a try.
For this as my first build I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. So I followed the F5Turbo article as closely as I could.
For this as my first build I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. So I followed the F5Turbo article as closely as I could.
Nice build!
Some say that they sound better at higher bias. You have ample room to try that....
Thanks BigE. I might give that a try down the road. I've been burning them in since Saturday, playing them about 12 hours a day using a secondary speaker system to make sure they are running reliably. I'm going to recheck DC offset and then install them in my primary system this weekend.
Next project is a preamp.
Next project is a preamp.
I'm almost finished with the build (I started a thread with pictures) but I have a couple of questions:
1. Do the thermistors have to touch the MOSFETS?
2. For the single ended RCA input, can I just use a coaxial cable I have lying around?
Thanks.
1. Do the thermistors have to touch the MOSFETS?
2. For the single ended RCA input, can I just use a coaxial cable I have lying around?
Thanks.
ha! I couldn't see the flux capacitor in your build guides so I'll go with the input wire. thanks again.
Could someone have a look at this illustration of the wiring and confirm if I have it right?
I'm not sure about the INPUT wire - does the core go to the IN and the shield to the GND? Or the other way around?
And I just want to double check the connection to the speakers - is it from the respective P-Ch and N-Ch connections at the top of the gain stage board?
I originally thought there were two points you could use for the "P-Ch Gate" and "N-Ch Gate" but I think I talked myself out of that and concluded there were two separate points - one for "P-Ch", one for the "Gate" on the P-Ch side, and the same for the N-Channel side. But confirmation would make me sleep better.
At least I have the O/P and GND worked out.
I'm not sure about the INPUT wire - does the core go to the IN and the shield to the GND? Or the other way around?
And I just want to double check the connection to the speakers - is it from the respective P-Ch and N-Ch connections at the top of the gain stage board?
I originally thought there were two points you could use for the "P-Ch Gate" and "N-Ch Gate" but I think I talked myself out of that and concluded there were two separate points - one for "P-Ch", one for the "Gate" on the P-Ch side, and the same for the N-Channel side. But confirmation would make me sleep better.
At least I have the O/P and GND worked out.
Attachments
The input core goes to the input and the shield to ground as you've indicated.
The O/P from each of the output boards should connect to the O/P on the input board. This is to provide a central point to connect the N and P channel outputs and provide the feedback signal.
I connected Speaker + to the common O/P point on the input board and Speaker - to the common ground point on the input board and that worked well for me.
The O/P from each of the output boards should connect to the O/P on the input board. This is to provide a central point to connect the N and P channel outputs and provide the feedback signal.
I connected Speaker + to the common O/P point on the input board and Speaker - to the common ground point on the input board and that worked well for me.
So I:'m powering up right now.
I have 120VAC in and +/- 35.5 VDC rails. No smoke!!
P1 and P2 are at 0R. And I have one DMM.
I'm a bit confused about where I need to measure as I dial up P1 and P2.
I couldn't follow the powerup guide by 6L6. I need a bit more hand-holding.
Can someone assist or point me to a more detailed powerup instructions?
Many thanks.
I have 120VAC in and +/- 35.5 VDC rails. No smoke!!
P1 and P2 are at 0R. And I have one DMM.
I'm a bit confused about where I need to measure as I dial up P1 and P2.
I couldn't follow the powerup guide by 6L6. I need a bit more hand-holding.
Can someone assist or point me to a more detailed powerup instructions?
Many thanks.
You really need three meters... possibly two, but I genuinely don't recommend it, and with one it's basically impossible for the first-timer.
This or similar will work absolutely beautifully -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBW1PT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_JBOrFbGYZ4WM2
Or even run to Harbor Freight and get some of their $5 cheapies, they are good enough for the job.
Report back when you have them in hand.
This or similar will work absolutely beautifully -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDBW1PT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_JBOrFbGYZ4WM2
Or even run to Harbor Freight and get some of their $5 cheapies, they are good enough for the job.
Report back when you have them in hand.
Well, I have no problem spending more money on electronic based equipment. I'll get to HD and check in when I have the other two. Thanks 6L6.
Elwood: There's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark out, and we're wearing sunglasses.
Joliet Jake: Hit it!
I don't know seemed appropriate to me. lol
Joliet Jake: Hit it!
I don't know seemed appropriate to me. lol
hahhahaa...that's hilarious.
It's definitely appropriate. There's a mission here. And we're on on it.
I've lent my car to someone who is now trying to change their work hours to bring the car back to me. There are two toddlers involved in the equation. Pretty soon all Virginia will be involved just for me to get two more DMMs.
UPDATE: It'll be a couple of hours before I get back with the DMMs.
It's definitely appropriate. There's a mission here. And we're on on it.
I've lent my car to someone who is now trying to change their work hours to bring the car back to me. There are two toddlers involved in the equation. Pretty soon all Virginia will be involved just for me to get two more DMMs.
UPDATE: It'll be a couple of hours before I get back with the DMMs.
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